I tighten my header bolts to tight and they went loose what do I do? (Here pic)

[ku_yugioh]

Alright since some people believe me that I did it here is the pic. Don't put some BS REPLY GO DO IT SOMEWHERE ELSE. Take a look as it might help other if they had the same problem. As you can see I put in 6 new studs with new nuts on it. The bottom left, middle, and right were all kept the stock.

 

[Chris.]

looks like your gonna have to scrap that motor man... sorry

and from the looks of it... you used the wrong nuts

 

[lotz6996]

if they went loose then you either stripped the stud, or more than likely the head.

 

[ku_yugioh]

I took out the dipstick to show you what bolts were on before I put the studs in. And also everything is at torque spec so stop BS. Nothing is wrong with it.

It works perfectly fine so I don't know what y'all talking about and plus I said I posted this to help out other and NOT FOR PEOPLE LIKE YOU TO REPLY TOO. READ BEFORE YOU COMMENT UNLESS SOME OF YOU CAN"T READ AND JUST POSTING BECAUSE YOU ARE PISS.

The studs and bolts were made for the exhaust manifold so I don't know what y'all are talking about go do some research before replying. Everything was perfect fit.

 

[bizoneoeh]

If this member had his other thread closed because of other member's trashing his thread, then he has every right to create a new one.



If you do not want to help, then don't post.

 

[typeR[ivi]]

wow that ones tough, honestly (dont scrap the motor), would you loose compression if you were to leave it like that without the bolt on??? or is there any way to seal it up with some form of RTV sealent

 

[Billy.]

im glad you finally replaced the bolts with studs. are they holding torque properly now?

 

[ku_yugioh]

Thanks for honest reply from bizoneoeh. The motor is not scrap. It is fine everything works. Revs up to redline and shift back into vtec. I used the high temp sealant for the studs before putting them in. The guy at the shop said that those were the right sealant. I just bolt the nuts on like any other nuts to specs. Everything works fine, and there is no noise of any sought unlike last time when the bolt were loose and you could here the bump bump noise every time you rev the car. Thanks to all that tried to help.

 

[Chris.]

wait am i missing something?????????



what was the problem?

or were you asking us for help?

this thread makes no sense.

are you saying that you fixxed the nuts coming loose by replacing the studs?

seriously bro... those are the wrong nuts.

the crown nut you see on the bottom left was and is still an original nut. the s**t in the middle is NOT. it should be all studs with crown nuts.

the nuts you have on the new studs are not the proper ones.

if you are complaining that your s**t came loose the way it is in the picture i see.... then 100% you used the wrong parts.

if done right... you should NEVER use high temp sealant on the exhaust. the pressure will never hold it.

honestly.... replace all the studs with factory new ones or better. along with FACTORY nuts. ive never ever had a factory exhaust nut fall off on me and ive never ever torqued them down either.

 

[XpL0d3r]

His other thread was locked because other people gave him s**t. Though I agree he couldn't spell if it saved his life in the last thread.. it seems he did get his problem fixed. Just gotta hope it holds up. I wouldn't go around redlining though if you want it to hold. But congrats on the fix

 

[lotz6996]

wait am i missing something?????????



what was the problem?

or were you asking us for help?

this thread makes no sense.

are you saying that you fixxed the nuts coming loose by replacing the studs?

seriously bro... those are the wrong nuts.

the crown nut you see on the bottom left was and is still an original nut. the s**t in the middle is NOT. it should be all studs with crown nuts.

the nuts you have on the new studs are not the proper ones.

if you are complaining that your s**t came loose the way it is in the picture i see.... then 100% you used the wrong parts.

if done right... you should NEVER use high temp sealant on the exhaust. the pressure will never hold it.

honestly.... replace all the studs with factory new ones or better. along with FACTORY nuts. ive never ever had a factory exhaust nut fall off on me and ive never ever torqued them down either.

dude... the torque specs for those nuts are only 12 lbs. so YOU have probably overtightened yours.

 

[XpL0d3r]

You guys are missing the whole point. It's fixed. He replaced the bolts with studs.. the proper studs. And he torqued everything down to spec. Why does everyone have a problem with this? I'm pretty sure he just used the high-temp sealant IN ADDITION to the new studs and nuts, just to make sure nothing becomes loose again.

 

[Chris.]

dude... the torque specs for those nuts are only 12 lbs. so YOU have probably overtightened yours.

so?

they never fell off though.... they come off easily with a wrench.... i can do it anytime i like.

 

[lethal6]

you should NEVER use high temp sealant on the exhaust. the pressure will never hold it.

There, how about I quote an OG member. Seems that because my title has '09 in it, my advise gets overlooked or ignored.

I have said it, so has a couple others. Sealant won't work on exhaust bolts, studs, or nuts. It gets too hot. It will crack and break away after a couple heat cycles. If it is fixed right you won't have the need for ghetto fixes like sealant.

And yes, to those that are just seeing this, he did fix it. It will fail shortly and he will be back.

 

[ku_yugioh]

First of all the sealant was just like an insurance on the studs and the nuts came with the studs when I bought them. The nuts locks itself in so that when there is vibration the nuts doesn't come loose but you can unlock it to just like any nuts. The nut just has a tighter grip on the studs. Also before I had all bolts and only two studs which were the most left and most right so I replace them except the middle because if I did then I wouldn't be able to put back in the oil dipstick.

Cars runs fine as I had been driving for over about two week and I check it like once a week just to make sure but apparently it is fine. Anything happens I will let y'all know that it fail but by the way it looks and how the studs nicely bolted I don't think nothing will happen.

 

[XpL0d3r]

You guys are missing the whole point. It's fixed. He replaced the bolts with studs.. the proper studs. And he torqued everything down to spec. Why does everyone have a problem with this? I'm pretty sure he just used the high-temp sealant IN ADDITION to the new studs and nuts, just to make sure nothing becomes loose again.

First of all the sealant was just like an insurance on the studs and the nuts came with the studs when I bought them.The nuts locks itself in so that when there is vibration the nuts doesn't come loose but you can unlock it to just like any nuts. The nut just has a tighter grip on the studs. Also before I had all bolts and only two studs which were the most left and most right so I replace them except the middle because if I did then I wouldn't be able to put back in the oil dipstick.

Cars runs fine as I had been driving for over about two week and I check it like once a week just to make sure but apparently it is fine. Anything happens I will let y'all know that it fail but by the way it looks and how the studs nicely bolted I don't think nothing will happen.

Exactly what I was trying to point out to everyone. But noooo people don't know how to read

 

[JohnS.]

At this point, it doesn't what anyone says. The fact is, those standard bolts holding in the header are wrong. Fact. Period.

If they've gotten to the point where they keep spinning in the head, you either 1. f**ked up the threads in the head or 2. f**ked up the threads on the bolt and not in the head (which is VERY VERY unlikely).

Since you still have most of the studs / nuts, you should be fine. But it looks like you'll have to get a new head if you ever want to have a fully sealed header.