Just changed timing belt; quick timing/idle question

[VSP]

Okay, so I just changed my timing belt a week ago. Now my car idles rather low.

I also drained my coolant in order to change the water pump, and didn't do anything in particular to clear out any air in the system.

In addition, I just swapped a new distributor in a few weeks ago.


My question is, what do I need to do to fix my low idle?
Do I need to check my timing with a light? (I'm pretty sure the belt was correctly aligned and not off by a tooth)


Sorry for the rather inexperienced-sounding questions, but I'm not sure which direction to start off with here. First time I've ever done this.

 

[luv4honda]

Bleed the cooling system. Take the radiator cap off and let the car warm up to operating conditions. Keep the coolant level up as it drops.

 

[projektej8]

You need to check the ignition timing with a timing light

 

[whoopnip]

Bleed the cooling system. Take the radiator cap off and let the car warm up to operating conditions. Keep the coolant level up as it drops.

You need to check the ignition timing with a timing light

Do both of these. Here is the full proper bleed procedure:

Top off the radiator and reservoir with coolant and then bleed the cooling system.


This procedure may take 20-30 minutes:

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/knob to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below

Note that ignition timing and mechanical timing are different. Do you know the procedure to check ignition timing?

 

[whoopnip]

Also, what does the car idle at?

And does the car shake, or is it just low on the tachometer?

 

[VSP]

Also, what does the car idle at?

And does the car shake, or is it just low on the tachometer?

Car doesn't shake, just rumbles gently a bit when car is idling. Idles on the tach right around 1100 rpms, a little lower than it should be.

I kind of suspected that it was air in the coolant system because I've dealt with this before, but under different circumstances. Mainly just wanted to get a little early recon on whether it was more likely the coolant or the new distributor install that might account for the lower rpm's.

Also wanted to rule out (with the forum's experience) that the timing belt install was directly causing the low idle.

(I mentioned mechanical timing to hopefuly rule out the possibility that it had been incorrectly set when the belt was replaced.)

Thanks for the coolant writeup, I'll give this a go first thing Wednesday morning and repost the results. If that doesn't do it than I'll grab a timing light from nearby Harbor Freight and go with it; either way I'll keep this updated. Just in case that becomes the next step, is a cheapy gun like this okay? http://www.harborfreight.com/xenon-timing-light-3343.html

 

[whoopnip]

Car doesn't shake, just rumbles gently a bit when car is idling. Idles on the tach right around 1100 rpms, a little lower than it should be.

I kind of suspected that it was air in the coolant system because I've dealt with this before, but under different circumstances. Mainly just wanted to get a little early recon on whether it was more likely the coolant or the new distributor install that might account for the lower rpm's.

Also wanted to rule out (with the forum's experience) that the timing belt install was directly causing the low idle.

(I mentioned mechanical timing to hopefuly rule out the possibility that it had been incorrectly set when the belt was replaced.)

Thanks for the coolant writeup, I'll give this a go first thing Wednesday morning and repost the results. If that doesn't do it than I'll grab a timing light from nearby Harbor Freight and go with it; either way I'll keep this updated. Just in case that becomes the next step, is a cheapy gun like this okay? http://www.harborfreight.com/xenon-timing-light-3343.html

1100 when warm or cold? 1100 is a high idle for a warm engine. I forget the exact spec (it should say on your catalyst sticker), but I think it's around 500 +/- 50

That timing light should be fine.

 

[VSP]

My mistake, it idles around 400 rpms.

 

[whoopnip]

My mistake, it idles around 400 rpms.

Ah, that sounds better. Once again, check your catalyst sticker for the proper idle spec. Do you know where it is?

Check the ignition timing. If it is in spec, and your idle is out of spec, you'll have to adjust the idle.

 

[VSP]

**UPDATE**

Finally got a cheap timing light and set my ignition timing the other day for my new distributor. Seems to be working just fine now, not to mention a lot crisper in the acceleration department.

The only caveat I encountered was that my timing marks on the harmonic balancer had lost their color with time. Without the color it's very hard to distinguish what's what when firing the timing light. So to fix it I grabbed a white grease pencil and re-marked the proper place on the wheel. After that, setting the timing was easy as pie.

Thanks everyone for your help!