Mega bogging CRX...please help!

d.Wrek

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OK so basically its my girlfriends 91 CRX Si that she bought without telling me...she got the car in Nov. 2011...it ran ok at first...in the winter it ran very good until it got warmed up then turned to s***...now that its summer its pretty much s***ty all the time...i need help quick so that we can have 2 dd's

Problem
The problem seems to be mostly at low rpm's where it boggs/ lags really bad...when i push the gas all the way down with the clutch in it takes almost a full two seconds to rev up to 2000rpm...obviously this sucks at stop lights...once i get it over 3000rpms and go thru gears keeping a higher rev it runs alot better

1st gear seems to be the worst...then second gear...the higher gears run better however between 3000rpm and up it has a little bit of a stutter kind of randomly...also when i am cruising in 3rd and 4th with just a little pressure on the peddle it has some random stutter/cut outs

First attempt to fix
After buying the car i thought it could use a tune up...i got new
Timing belt
Water pump
Drive belt
Coolant
Cap & rotor
Coolant temp sensor
Intake air control valve

After all that it ran a little better but not much...i went to the local honda stealership and talked to an older mechanic for a minute and had him play with the throttle a little bit...he thought it was the MAP sensor

Second attempt to fix
First off phuck paying a s*** ton for a new MAP...and honda doesnt even make the part anymore...so i went to the junk yard and got every MAP off of every civic/crx i could find between 88 and 91(4 MAPS)...went home and put in two different ones, reset the ECU and it still isnt running good

After changing this MAP it ran a little better...if i drove it with a racingish style and kept the revs high it was fine...still sucked for a complete stop...if i drove it conservatively it still bogged...also had almost no throttle response especially from 0%-20% from a stop and if i was cruising at about 40% throttle and stepped on it all the way down

I can only think of a couple other things...tomorrow im going to try the starter fluid in a vac lines to see if theres a leak...or could be the TPS

Anyone have any other ideas?

Also if you guys are thinking TPS what are my options...i dont really want to replace the throttle body but i also dont want to rip up the one i have to put in a new TPS and risk ruining the new TPS or TB...anyone done this...im wondering how touchy a new TPS is when installing to the TB

Thanks for any help...sorry for the
 

emerican

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there is a chance that the map sensors from the junkyard werent any good however the odds that all 4 where are a little longer.
Check for all leaks and things of that nature first as of course its cheap
have you cleaned the entire fuel system?
fuel filter been replaced?
idle screw?
when you did the cap and rotor i assune you replaced plugs and wires?
cel?
 


Last edited:

emerican

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honestly not my generation of expertise mostly work on 5th gens and up, but im gonna try and help as much as possible man.
 

d.Wrek

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yeah sorry forgot a few things...there is no cel light...if i drive it for a couple hours it will come on but go off after i let the engine cool down...also when i stop after driving alot it smells rich and also just kinda of a general burning smell...

I also did new
o2 sensor
plugs and wires
fuel filter
air filter is clean
and used sea foam in the vac lines and in the gas tank
 


d.Wrek

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sorry again...this thing is driving me nuts...but yeah all of the MAPs i got all have the same parts numbers on them and i dont think there is anyway that they are all bad
 

Jersey8

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damn sounds like you've covered everything already. are you sure you timed the engine correctly when you replaced the timing belt?
 

mymmeryloss

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Change tps. Check for vacuum leaks. I tend to think its vacuum related due to it getting worse when its hot.

Have u messed with the ignition timing at all?

What code is it throwing?

Have u tried a different ecu?

Any leaks at the intake manifold?


Sent from my Butthole using Fart power!
 

b16lewis

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loosen the three bolts for the distributor and advance the piss out of it all the way towards the firewall then try rolling it back the other direction. the higher the rpm the more advanced the timing goes
 

d.Wrek

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i didnt do the belt and the water pump i had it done at a shop so i hope they did the timing...it isnt throughing any codes and running like it is i would think one should come on...ill let you guys know when i get back to check it a little bit
 

Jersey8

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i don't know much about obd0. all i know is i had a timing belt job done on my obd2 d16 and the shop at skipped a tooth. ran like s**t and there was no cel. just sayingg
 

emerican

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I would simply because if its not your timming then you can go ahead and do the tps, but if you do the tps and it ends up being your timming then waste of money. can youcheck the timming yourself and not pay someone to do it?
 

d.Wrek

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5+ Year Member
thanks for the advice guys...sorry its taken me so long for the update but i been way busy...anyway i did find a leak in one vacume line and found that the ignition timing was set almost as retarded as possible so i advanced it almost as much as it would go since i live in Salt Lake City and the elevation is so high (the CRX was originally from Seattle so that might be why it was all the way retarded)
 

00siboy

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So problem solved? Always remember to check the simple things before just throwing parts at it.;)
 

d.Wrek

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yeah its way better...it will still bog a little bit in second gear at low rpms but not to bad
 


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