Mini Me Swap?

B16Ferio

New Member
5+ Year Member
So...i've got just a few grand left to pay off my car, and at the end of the sumemr i wanna start saving money to swap out my non vtec head for the sohc vtec head (ex motor). by next spring i wanna have this done and get it boosted...does anyone have any suggestions on how to go about this and what brand/type of internals should i get? (i plan on swapping my transmission to a manual this summer with a new clutch and flywheel) and also, any ideas for what kind of turbo to get or how much boost to run? (looking for around 300-350 whp) Thanks!


This is what im workin with now (sorry its blurry)
 

PhntmSk8r

H23VTEC
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
You're not going to get 300+whp on a non built motor. :roll:

my buddies running a single jammer in his EF, non vtec with eagle/vitara setup he made 330 (IIRC) on an old school gt35.

http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=156392

Your power goal is reasonable, but not easily achievable for what kind of questions you're asking.

Start reading, reading, reading and then do more reading. When you think you've covered it all, go back and read it again.
 


B16Ferio

New Member
5+ Year Member
i plan on building the motor. i was just curious as to what internals ill need to make it strong enough to handle more than 10psi without blowing it...
 

frankmoocivic

I
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
The reason why people tell you to search is mainly cause this has def been answered. But ill take the time to help considering i am doing this now.

1. remove the head we are going to work on the block right now.
2. remove the oil pan, now you have acces to the oil pump and oil pick up tube.
3. remove the oil pump and pick up tube, the pick up tube has four bolts i believe. the oil pump has five 10mm bolts on the side of the block.
4. once that is removed the rear main seal housing can also be removed. i believe that is also has five 10mm bolts.
5. now you can remove the main bearing. its ten bolts on the bottom.
6. now remove your crank shaft.

Now that your bottom end is disassembled you can decide what direction you want to go in.
If you decide turbo, buy suited parts for a turbo build. if you choose N/A buy parts suitable for that.
When i say suitable parts im refering to Rods, Pistons, Main and Rod bearings, Thrust washers.
once you decide what you want, IMO the best thing to now is take your parts to a machine shop. Have your block cleaned, degreased, honed (if needed), and milled. I would aslo have your crankshaft balanced and grinded(if needed). Take your oil pan there and have that degreased and cleaned. Also depending on what rod and piston set up you choose, some require that the block be notched and in some cases even the main bearing cap.

From here with the block, crankshaft, rods and pistons installed by a professional (best way to do it if your not familiar with rebuilding), you can now purchase an oil pump, oil pick up tube, and oil pick up tube gasket.
With these parts installed along with the rear main gasket housing with proper sealants, you can install the oil pan. Now you have a fully built bottom end.

Brands I would suggest; Eagle Rods , FJ distributors Rods, Vitara Pistons, CP Pistons, I plan on using thses and from what i understand they can hold 500+ HP. ACL bearings, Duraglide bearings (not sure if they are the same brand) for the rod and main bearings.

As far as converting Your cylinder head fortunately i have a VTEC vehicle and engine i do not have to rewire anything and im positive when switching from Non-Vtec to VTEC there is a need to rewire. Also if you are coverting from a automatic to a manual, im pretty sure if you can get your hands on either, a EX manual ecu, and a EX engine harness, or a P28 ecu (OBD1) with a (OBD2-OBD1) conversion harness to match with a EX engine harness, you will be in good shape. And with the P28 you can now easily tune your car.

So since you said your going with turbo, purchase a full kit, if you do not know anything about rebuilding or Forced Induction i wouldnt even attempt to piece together a turbo kit.

Well this is about as far as i got, the cylinder head is a whole other can of worms, Including, Cam (SOHC), valves, valve seals, springs, retainers, and im sure im forgetting something.

Hope this helps man. GL
 


JasonxEHS

New Member
5+ Year Member
honestly dude if you want to go the boosted route, i would keep the Y7 head.. it has a better power band and honestly since i did my mini me swap, i dont have the torque that i had with my Y7 head. something to really consider is the Y8 intake manifold.... that made a huge difference in my power... top end power is improved greatly... do the intake mani swap but forget about the head swap... its a f**kin pain in the ass and too much work for the itty bitty tiny amount of power you get
 

mymmeryloss

RHD is where its at
Registered VIP
Registered OG
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
vtec is pointless, especially for boost
 

DarkCreep

D16Y8+T
Registered VIP
Registered OG
5+ Year Member
Keep dreaming Junior. You should be aiming for like 200whp and learn from there lol.
 


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