Mugen valve cover baffles

lonewolf

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I'm trying to work out why my engine with all its mods has less power than standard. This guy I been talking to is trying to tell me its my valve cover...

Because I have a knockoff Mugen valve cover, he is saying that it has no baffle on the cam breather hose (oil gets into the intake system) and that the contour of the inside means that the cams and springs are being 'saturated' with oil and that's hurting performance.

Is this true or is he giving me some BS?

Cheers
 

Genuine Rolla

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everything in there is supposed to have oil, that is what makes them run smooth. I think that d00d is an idiot and the valve cover really shouldnt have an effect on anything. And plus, remember that the numbers that the engine puts out is when its brand new. You need to include the age of the engine and plus the wheels that you have on it. the heavier the wheels, the more hp you will loose. Also, i'm not sure if the factory hp numbers are coming straight from the wheels. I think they are taken from the crank. Just my two cents.
 


05

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what were your numbers?
 

05

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yea, im guessing he got around 100whp and is confused because honda said 115hp or something
 

lonewolf

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What numbers do you think I should be getting with:

1999 B16A2
K&N Induction
5Zigen 4-2-1 Manifold
Decat
Stainless Steel Exhaust (custom)
Port and Polish, 3 angle valve job?

I also run with 97 RON petrol (Shell Optimax) and avarage ambient temp around 17 centegrade?
 

Grendel

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lonewolf said:
What numbers do you think I should be getting with:

1999 B16A2
K&N Induction
5Zigen 4-2-1 Manifold
Decat
Stainless Steel Exhaust (custom)
Port and Polish, 3 angle valve job?

I also run with 97 RON petrol (Shell Optimax) and avarage ambient temp around 17 centegrade?
150ish WHP
 

lonewolf

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Well, I was hoping for 130ish at the wheels, 150 would be great, but only managed 150 at the FLY. Final numbers were 110.5 at the wheels and 152.0 at the flywheel. 122 ftlbs of torque though, happy with that. =)

A few weeks ago, a UK based civic club went for a dyno shootout day at the same place. All the cars with similar mods were hitting 165-180hp at the fly, and they didn't have the port and polish.

So correct me if i'm wrong, but my modified engine is putting down slightly less than a standard engine. I've been checking over a few things like fuelling, timing, vacuum, ignition and they are all spot on. Compression is good also on all cylinders.

I thought this guy was talking out his rear end, but wanted to check first. I'm just confused now as to what is wrong with it.

Thanks for the input.
 

J32a2OwnsU

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Ive seen a few dynos of stock B16a2, they hit low 140s on average. There are some freaks (high 140s) and some dogs (mid to upper 130s). but low 140s are about right on that stock motor at the wheels.......

How many miles does your motor have? Compression test that thing yet?
 

lonewolf

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Engine has (so I have been told) about 38k miles on it. An indipentant garage is doing the power runs, and fault finding, they tell me that the compression is all within specs (idk the actual figures), they checked the vacuums, the fuelling, the timing... everything and it just won't even put down the standard power, let alone the power for the mods.

This garage that did the swap made quite a few f**kups along the way (like fitting undersised injectors, fitting a faulty lambda sensor, fitting the dizzy incorrectly, retarding the timing 11 degrees to compensate) he also did the port and polish... Is it possible he messed that up as well? took to much out or something? When this other place did a diagnostic power run they found that a/f was good throuout the rev range, so I doubt it is that, but if there is a chance...

Or maybe I just bought the mother of all dogs! ;)
 

J32a2OwnsU

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I would guess you should EASILY be hitting 150+ if nto 160whp.... something is wrong for shizzle.......do I know what it is?????? Nope. sorry. :(
 

lonewolf

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Thanks for your help. At least I know that i'm not expecting to much from it, and I have to aim a little higher than my estimate of 130! lol
 

anekin007

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from the looks of the graph ... it doesnt look like its done from a real dyno.. some type of diagnostic machine? all dyno machines put out different numbers. whats the numbers for other cars?
 

anekin007

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if u got some cams and valvetrain it would make more of a difference along with different ecu mapping. your port&polish might have done nothing to help maybe even hurt because your still using b16 internals. try swapping the head to the stock b16 head and run it again and see the difference. im guessing the jordan civic is basically stock. so on that dyno whp for a near stock b16 is 110-120 whp.. numbers will always be different on the type of dyno and will also be different especially with the alt and temp.
 

FRODO

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In Theory the valve cover could not posse a problem. but for some freak reason it is sucking a large amount of oil through the breather then you might have a problem....maybe you should find a better shop to work on your car...dude sounds shady.
 

lonewolf

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FRODO said:
...dude sounds shady.
I wouldn't trust these guys to fit a wiper blade anymore, not after the s**t they done to my car.


I have my money back for stuff that didn't fit or wasn't fitted in the 8 weeks it took them todo the swap because they didn't have enough time. I have finished with that place and will NEVER go back there. From now on I'll be going to Interpro (the place with the dyno) because they do know what they are talking about (even if they can't find anything wrong with my motor). Sometime in the next few days i'll post up my swap experience (all 10 weeks of it!!!)

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.
 


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