my first honda build
- Thread starter cw3263
- Start date
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this is amazing! really cant wait to see the K sitting there! 
As advertised here's the first pics of my first swap, just a few hours of work and a few beers, wanna do a mild shave, the shaving seems to be the most daunting thing, and a wire tuck maybe a brake and clutch line tuck, any advice would be appreciated on how to tuck and look nice, also been looking to find a nice sleeving for the wire any advice or direction appreciated, more pics to come tomorrow. Ive got lots of k swap parts already, just need a swap and a few other things.
ok so sunday i spent the day cleaning out the rest of the junk outta engine bay, sanding, spraying primer, sanding, spraying more primer, being unhappy with how it looked and doing it again, finally deciced to leave it alone and i wresetled the dash out, and pulled the heater box. Hey Guys I remember looking through somebody's build and them mentioning they bought a box that didnt have ac with it, if you know who that was let me know. On the other hand im thinking bout leaving the box out, ive already decided not to run ac, and i really love all the room under the dash with no box at all, Ill figure it out. Here's some pics.
heat/ac box in
and box out
look at all that fn room
got a mess of wires on the driver side
heat/ac box in
and box out
look at all that fn room
got a mess of wires on the driver side
so after work I came home and did a lil work on the shave, ive decided to smooth up the shock towers and fill in some of the spot welds, and i decided to cut off all the tabs and studs off the firewall, its my first time doing and real body work, my first time with and body filler, I had bought some regular bondo but was told that bondo attracts moisture and eventually crack, so im using a fiberglass filler, its tacky and hard to work with and will prob take a couple coats, here's some pics fellas
well boys got all the first layer of fiberglass filler sanded away, put a coat on the radiator support, here's some pics got a bit more to do tomorrow, thanks guys for all the positive comments and the motivation
after lots of sanding on the shock towers
again thanks for all the positive comments and suggestions guys, and gotta give a big:up::up: to the guys at hybrid racing
after lots of sanding on the shock towers
again thanks for all the positive comments and suggestions guys, and gotta give a big:up::up: to the guys at hybrid racing
i like that look where you take out the holes from the bay. looking good.
Hey bro your car is looking great!!!
I am doing something very similar other than I am going Turbo B and A Full shave/Tuck
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=190266 Here is my "REBUILD" Thread lol.. My car was one direction now I am going a new direction
Anyways, so as far as the Bondo... Whoever told you that is wrong... Bondo can crack yes, however when used PROPERLY it works great... If it ALWAYS cracked why would millions of cars have it on it including brand new cars that get hit?(that may not be the best comparison lol)
Now here is the thing, Bondo should be 1/16 of an in thick at it's thickest point, I have heard 1/8 but 1/16 is much better... It is only meant to be a skim coat, so filling in little weld holes (ie the divets or whatever) and such fine... Fiberglass is also fine, that stuff works well... The only thing I am not digging is filling actual holes that go through the metal... You will have issues with cracking possibly.. or the hole break out... If you can get a welder then weld it up and grind it then fill the holes... Check out my last few pages, it looks very similar lol... Mine has been on hold due to work and just time... But it will get going again VERY soon
Props to you for the work man keep us updated...
I am doing something very similar other than I am going Turbo B and A Full shave/Tuck
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=190266 Here is my "REBUILD" Thread lol.. My car was one direction now I am going a new direction
Anyways, so as far as the Bondo... Whoever told you that is wrong... Bondo can crack yes, however when used PROPERLY it works great... If it ALWAYS cracked why would millions of cars have it on it including brand new cars that get hit?(that may not be the best comparison lol)
Now here is the thing, Bondo should be 1/16 of an in thick at it's thickest point, I have heard 1/8 but 1/16 is much better... It is only meant to be a skim coat, so filling in little weld holes (ie the divets or whatever) and such fine... Fiberglass is also fine, that stuff works well... The only thing I am not digging is filling actual holes that go through the metal... You will have issues with cracking possibly.. or the hole break out... If you can get a welder then weld it up and grind it then fill the holes... Check out my last few pages, it looks very similar lol... Mine has been on hold due to work and just time... But it will get going again VERY soon
Props to you for the work man keep us updated...
You asked about Wire cover... Get this stuff... There is a bunch of kinds/Colors you can get... So much better than that plastic JUNK
http://cabletiesandmore.com/BraidedSleeving.php?gclid=CPu6g_er6qQCFQQQbAodn11m0Q
Also make sure to get rid of all that body glue they put in the cars... And then clean up the seam
http://cabletiesandmore.com/BraidedSleeving.php?gclid=CPu6g_er6qQCFQQQbAodn11m0Q
Also make sure to get rid of all that body glue they put in the cars... And then clean up the seam
Did you use the chase bay kit? do you like it? Great build so far! i love it!
haha at that pic, never seen that oneDid you use the chase bay kit? do you like it? Great build so far! i love it!
yea i used the chase bays kit, it was so perfect, everything i needed in the box, and when i had some questions chasebays responded quick to my emails
i forget, can you keep the same brake booster with that? was it hard? im debating getting this or not lol lets see some pics of it installed, and i would recommend taking the firewall liner out if you have the dash off
yea u can use the stock booster and master cylinder, and the ITR master has the same outlets as the stock ek, so its an easy upgrade, after i get it all mounted and such ill post more pics, it wasnt too hard, just a lotta checking and double checking on the holes that need to be drilled, i did it with the dash in, i did take my ac/heater box out though