My first time @ the drag strip!
- Thread starter JohnS.
- Start date
Lol I know about the "aww freeeaak" just giving u a hard time bro. Damn that was basically a stock D16, that seems really good, u must be a great driver
Thanks!
I'm actually not sure how much it is to run at this track otherwise on a regular day. All I know is that I'm curious to see what the car would run if I gutted the interior
.not enough to go thru all the trouble of gutting it, just to run a couple of times, some of that plastic once you take it out it will be loose forever and squeek and rattle . imo dont do itThanks!
I'm actually not sure how much it is to run at this track otherwise on a regular day. All I know is that I'm curious to see what the car would run if I gutted the interior
get a decent clutch man... i used to launch at 5k and feather the clutch out to prevent spin but stay in the powerband.
lol I wasn't serious about it. Just an idea I had.
I'd love to have a new clutch. I actually asked my friend about it the other day. How much it would cost and stuff since he knows about that stuff and has rebuilt engines. It's just not worth it to me as the car is just a daily. If the car / engine was in better condition, I would probably do it. But the car really isn't worth fixing at this point to me. Actually, if I had a steady job (I'm a contractor atm so I'm temporary), I would probably put money into the car. But I won't know if I get hired until my contract is up in October. Until then, I'm not spending money on anything but school loans.
fastet pass i have seen on a bike here was a high 8 on a turbocharged busa i believe. my ls swapped 97 ex i ran a low 15, its a blast though, even though i always get lined up with stupid fast cars. last time i got lined up with a few ten second cars, kinda takes the fun out of those runs but its still a great time
Glad that you went to the drag strip instead of doing this on the street 
As for the question about safety rules, I can chime in with this. If you are at a NHRA sanctioned track the rules are as follows:
-If battery is in the back/trunk (regardless of ET), a secured tray and cutoff switch is required.
-If using Nitrous oxide, the bottle must be securely mounted (no plastic brackets), bottle must be stamped with 1800-lb DOT rating and identified as nitrous oxide. If bottle is located in driver's compartment, it must be equipped with a relief valve and vented outside the compartment. Commercially available thermostatically controlled bottle-type warmers are permitted, all other heating of bottles prohibited (i.e. blow torches).
-NHRA national and divisional races require clear glass around the vehicle, subject to check. Local races vary, check with your division or track.
13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.
11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.
11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing. The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram for specs. Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position.
The 5-points are:
-Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable); Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).
-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)
-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years)
-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)
-Screw-in valve stems
-No tint allowed on window except factory
10.99 1/4-mile (6.99 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-5-point roll bar is still okay to 10.00 1/4-mile (6.40 18-mile) in hardtop / t-top with un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay). If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position.
See diagram below.
-Convertibles require full roll cage at 10.99 and quicker.
See diagram below.
-aftermarket axles with positive retention (c-clip eliminators)
-Transmission shield SFI Spec 4.1 at 10.99 and quicker or 135 mph and quicker (blanket is okay, no expiration date)
-Harmonic Balancer SFI Spec 18.1 (no expiration date)
9.99 1/4-mile (6.39 1/8-mile)/ 135 mph or quicker:
-Roll cage is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing. Roll cage must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years, and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation. The cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position. This style of cage is good til 8.50 1/4-mile times, then a funny car style cage is required.
See diagram below.
-Window net required (can be ribbon or mesh, no altering allowed unless done by manufacturer. No expiration date per 2008 NHRA rule book, but some have said 2 years on expiration/re-cert. Check with your local track or division).
-NHRA competition driver's license required, done by car designation (dragster, door car, etc). A physical, 2 NHRA licensed drivers to witness/sign your forms and minimum 6 runs are required.
-Flexplate SFI 29.1 and shield SFI 30.1 required (no expiration dates listed, but I believe the shield is 5 years)
-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket and pants with a 3.2A/5 rating, gloves and neck collar, no expiration date)
-Battery cutoff (regardless or whether battery is still up front or relocated to rear of vehicle)
-A full-face helmet is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is permitted but not required. This rule posting is as it applies to cars like ours (closed body type). For open cars a different helmet ruling is required.
-A engine diaper is required at NHRA national and divisional races, local races vary, check with your division or track.
Parachutes:
-Required at 150 mph or faster, no matter the e.t.
As for the question about safety rules, I can chime in with this. If you are at a NHRA sanctioned track the rules are as follows:
-If battery is in the back/trunk (regardless of ET), a secured tray and cutoff switch is required.
-If using Nitrous oxide, the bottle must be securely mounted (no plastic brackets), bottle must be stamped with 1800-lb DOT rating and identified as nitrous oxide. If bottle is located in driver's compartment, it must be equipped with a relief valve and vented outside the compartment. Commercially available thermostatically controlled bottle-type warmers are permitted, all other heating of bottles prohibited (i.e. blow torches).
-NHRA national and divisional races require clear glass around the vehicle, subject to check. Local races vary, check with your division or track.
13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.
11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.
11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing. The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram for specs. Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position.
The 5-points are:
-Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable); Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).
-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)
-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years)
-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)
-Screw-in valve stems
-No tint allowed on window except factory
10.99 1/4-mile (6.99 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-5-point roll bar is still okay to 10.00 1/4-mile (6.40 18-mile) in hardtop / t-top with un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay). If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position.
See diagram below.
-Convertibles require full roll cage at 10.99 and quicker.
See diagram below.
-aftermarket axles with positive retention (c-clip eliminators)
-Transmission shield SFI Spec 4.1 at 10.99 and quicker or 135 mph and quicker (blanket is okay, no expiration date)
-Harmonic Balancer SFI Spec 18.1 (no expiration date)
9.99 1/4-mile (6.39 1/8-mile)/ 135 mph or quicker:
-Roll cage is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing. Roll cage must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years, and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation. The cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position. This style of cage is good til 8.50 1/4-mile times, then a funny car style cage is required.
See diagram below.
-Window net required (can be ribbon or mesh, no altering allowed unless done by manufacturer. No expiration date per 2008 NHRA rule book, but some have said 2 years on expiration/re-cert. Check with your local track or division).
-NHRA competition driver's license required, done by car designation (dragster, door car, etc). A physical, 2 NHRA licensed drivers to witness/sign your forms and minimum 6 runs are required.
-Flexplate SFI 29.1 and shield SFI 30.1 required (no expiration dates listed, but I believe the shield is 5 years)
-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket and pants with a 3.2A/5 rating, gloves and neck collar, no expiration date)
-Battery cutoff (regardless or whether battery is still up front or relocated to rear of vehicle)
-A full-face helmet is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is permitted but not required. This rule posting is as it applies to cars like ours (closed body type). For open cars a different helmet ruling is required.
-A engine diaper is required at NHRA national and divisional races, local races vary, check with your division or track.
Parachutes:
-Required at 150 mph or faster, no matter the e.t.
Like I said, before, I just wanted to go to see what the car would run as is, the way I drive it every day. I'm not looking to try to improve my times. Sure, I'm curious to see what it would run if I started tweaking stuff. But I don't think I actually will. I'm considering a clutch even though it's kind of pricey. I think the engine has another 100k in it. Clutch definitely won't lol. It'll be amazed if I can go 300k on an original clutch and have it drive the way even the way it is now (slippage, etc.).
look into a comp 1.5 clutch.
jeremyB16a
New Member
not to bad for stock. I have a 00 ex with b16a2 cai, full n1 ex, s2 intake mani, with stock internals. Never ran at tha trackm, but raced a few ppl who been. I'll prob run in tha low 15s. Wanna do tha ls vtec so bad. But family comes first. It will happen some day. I'll let you guys know how it goes.