i'm either gonna sand it down or paint it a color that really pops out
still in the air at the moment.
My Mini-Me Project So Far! (56k take the dog for a walk)
- Thread starter EricDaReDD
- Start date
still in the air at the moment.
yea thats tru haha well good luck man
So, after finally getting the damn crank pulley bolt off and replacing the water pump, I'm ready to begin putting it all back together but I need to adjust the cam on the new head to the UP position, but the damn thing won't turn a BIT! How the hell do I make this thing turn? I snapped the old bolt that held the gear on trying to turn it that way....
advise?
Peace and Llove
Eric
advise?
Peace and Llove
Eric
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Dang, nice job on cleaning things up.
EF Honda EF
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the cam should spin if you stick a screwdrive in in the gear and pull up or down on it. and enough of the Peace and Llove Eric. thats something chicks say
If the cam gear wont turn, try rotating the crank. You may have a piston wedging a valve.
lol, it's a long-aquired force of habit that stems back to a band called Llama that I was obsessed with in High School. I would sign everything like that and it just sort of stuck.
But anyway, I know the cam SHOULD turn by doing those things, but it doesn't. I haven't put the new timing belt on yet because the cam is 180" off. I don't want to have to take the damn assembly apart... I want my car to run dammit, lol. Is there a chance something is stuck against something else? Is there any way to sort of... tap it free? G'ah... I've had to learn more and more about cars just because s**t goes wrong... it's like I'm not allowed to learn when s**t actually works.
Peace and Llove
Eric
You probably have a valve opening when one of the pistons is at top. This would cause it to jam up. try turning the cam the opposite way and see if it turns. if it does, then you have a piston up.
Okay, basically I came to the conclusion that the z6 head I've been trying to use is in need of some TLC. It should NOT take a pair of vice grips and a 3-foot pipe to get it to the "up" position... But fortunately my roommate also had a z6 head laying around because I was gonna do a swap for him when I finished mine. But since his licence is suspended and can't drive for a while, I snagged that head and spent all of yesterday removing mine and replacing it with that one. Now everything is lined up and I just need to do the timing belt, torque everything down and other odds and ends. I'll post some pics and maybe a video of the finished product.
I'm probably going to have to take that head apart to see what's wrong with it... anyone ever done that before? Are there any special tools I'm gonna need?
Peace and Llove
Eric
I'm probably going to have to take that head apart to see what's wrong with it... anyone ever done that before? Are there any special tools I'm gonna need?
Peace and Llove
Eric
Duplicolor Metalcast. It Withstands intermittant heat of up to 500 degrees; the same as the duplicolor engine enamel but the color has more "pop"
Peace and Llove
Eric
You need both 10 and 12 mm sockets unless your planning on removing the valves. There shouldnt be anythng wrong with the head. It turned just fine for me. Did you loosen up any bolts or anything like that before trying to use the head? I dont understand how it would be locking up on you.
Okay, I'm assembled and everything looks honkey-dorey but the car won't turn over. It cranks fine with no bad or out of the ordinary sounds but it just won't, like... run. It sounds like it's ALMOST going to turn over but doesn't. Any ideas? The car HAS sat since February so is it possible that I just have to wait for fuel to get through the line? Also... could having the not-right plug wires cause it to not fire? I looked them up and for some reason Autozone sold me wires for an Hx and I don't think the Hx ran a z6...
Lookin' for advise. I'll post a video of an attempted start if that will help...
Peace and Llove
Eric
Lookin' for advise. I'll post a video of an attempted start if that will help...
Peace and Llove
Eric
Crack open the fuel line that connects to the fuel filter and turn the ignition on. If fuel sprays out then your getting fuel. The next thing to check would be spark. I didnt know that non vtec wires would fit properly on a vtec head. That could be the problem though
I think you're right about the wires. I pulled a plug out and it was giving no spark. I guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow, lol.
Peace and Llove
Eric
Well my swap is complete and the engine is running. I'll have pics up in a day or two but I'm having a few issues with it right now...
1. My idle is really rough. If I brake too hard then the RPM's drop to practically zero and the engine stalls.
2. I'm not exactly sure at what angle the distributer is supposed to be at... centered? back? forward? If anyone else out there has a mini-me, where is yours positioned?
3. After driving for about 5-10 minutes or getting to the top of a steep hill, my check engine light will come on and stay on until I shut off the car and turn it back on... at which point it will be off until about another 5-10 minutes of driving. I don't have the z6 ecu yet (I'm still running the b7 one cuz I can't afford the other) so could that be it? I think it's running really rich because the mileage is shitty right now.
Lastly, is this swap supposed to be... louder... than stock? It growls like hell now and I don't really mind it but at the same time I'm not sure everything is all honkey-dorey in there...
So yeah, overall I get a lot more pull and this thing practically leaps up to 5k no problem even with the stock dx tranny and I'm pleased with it, but I'd really like to make sure everything is running correctly before I go out gunning it on the winding back roads of VT.
Peace and Llove
Eric
1. My idle is really rough. If I brake too hard then the RPM's drop to practically zero and the engine stalls.
2. I'm not exactly sure at what angle the distributer is supposed to be at... centered? back? forward? If anyone else out there has a mini-me, where is yours positioned?
3. After driving for about 5-10 minutes or getting to the top of a steep hill, my check engine light will come on and stay on until I shut off the car and turn it back on... at which point it will be off until about another 5-10 minutes of driving. I don't have the z6 ecu yet (I'm still running the b7 one cuz I can't afford the other) so could that be it? I think it's running really rich because the mileage is shitty right now.
Lastly, is this swap supposed to be... louder... than stock? It growls like hell now and I don't really mind it but at the same time I'm not sure everything is all honkey-dorey in there...
So yeah, overall I get a lot more pull and this thing practically leaps up to 5k no problem even with the stock dx tranny and I'm pleased with it, but I'd really like to make sure everything is running correctly before I go out gunning it on the winding back roads of VT.
Peace and Llove
Eric