My (new to me) 2000 Civic EX!

Erik

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Hello all,

Just bought my first civic, a 2000 black 5 speed ex sedan. It's very clean for the most part, scooped it for $3100. Got some dings/dents, nothing major though. Paint shines real nice.
Runs like a top and is a wonderful DD. Pretty much 100% stock except tint and it is equipped with a professionally installed sirius xm antenna/sound system.

I want to do some modding to it, I think the sedans can look real clean if done right. There's very few out there, they're all coupes and hatches, so I'm actually very content with the 4 door beast.

I want to get a type R mesh grill to start things off. I'm worried about using ebay for a cheap one as I'm not sure if they'll fit properly..plus doesn't the sedan have a different size grill? (could be wrong)

I'm also in the process of restoring the appearance of the engine bay... It's pretty clean, but being a midwest car it has some surface rust and corrosion. I've been taking pieces off and letting them soak overnight in vinegar, then taking a wire brush/60 grit sandpaper and having at them. It's not doing the best job though. What is the best way of restoring misc engine pieces? I don't have a sandblaster...Which also leads me to the question of how I should paint my valve cover. I have read DIY's and I'm not worried about painting, but I haven't been able to remove all the surface corrosion/rust on the cover. What should I do?

Thanks CC!

Of course, here's some pictures.

1.jpg
2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 6.jpg
 

speedygonzales

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The easiest way to redo the valve cover is go to your local salvage yard and grab a spare to clean up and paint that way you don't have to worry about down time. Minus the rad support everything looks pretty rust free which is a plus for you. I'd say try a dremel with a wire wheel to take off some of the surface rust. As far as cleaning a scrubbing goes, simple green is your friend
 


Erik

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Yeah, that radiator support has been giving me grief. It was initially all brown, but I manage to scrape off the flat surfaces. I've been working away at the second half of it but it's tough to get it all off. Some of the bolts are also rusty, might just buy new hardware for those. I might just buy a spare valve cover to do that. Does only one style of oem honda valve cover fit this? Or is it possible to get one of them that says vtec and the honda symbol on them? I know the dohc si valve cover wouldn't fit.

What I've marked in red is the real troublesome spots. I was thinking of just repainting my heat shield but that gets so hot it doesn't seem worth it.

I'm basically trying to get this engine bay real clean looking, not going to get rid of PS AC or cruise but will be restoring bits and pieces and (attempting) to tuck some wires.
4.1.jpg
 

mc360

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you can install a d15z1 cover which says vtec-e or the d16z6 i believe says vtec and there are a few others that are much more rare and usually only found on ebay for a premium (you can also shave off the honda part then paint and add a vtec sticker if you dont mind it not being raised like the oem letters). the heat shield is fine to paint as long as you use high heat paint, i painted my heat shield black when i first got my car and it made it look much cleaner
 


Joe Mason

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Sharp motorized rollingham there friend! IMO the best long term solution to those rusty bits is finding new or non rusty used tiddlywinks to swap with. You'll probably have to replace those dampers or all of those upper bits and kits to get the bling back.

-Cheers!
 

HeX

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First off, congrats on the purchase. It looks to be very clean & well taken care of. I love black sedan Civics. It won't take much to make it look very nice. Parts like the grille from eBay will fit just fine.

In regards to the valve cover, don't get a vtec-e one because your car doesn't have vtec-e. A v-tec or Honda one will be just fine. Be careful not to get overzealous if using a dremmel on the valve cover because you could inadvertently create dips that'll be visible once painted. A coarse sand paper should do just fine, just follow it with a finer grit to have a smooth finish. High heat paint is definitely preferred, although I've read some baking methods for curing will further solidify the process.

As for the miscellaneous rusty brackets & bolts, you should consider fishing for non-rusted replacements at the junkyard while your valve cover hunting. Prep it all and paint it all together and let them cure as long as possible to prevent any future chipping or flaking.

With the strut tops & hose fitting rust, I'd wire brush them then paint them on the spot, masking off their surroundings of course.

If you can't find all of the pieced rust-free then wire brush them, prep them with a rust reformer, then paint them.

Do you have any plans for the audio system or suspension?
 

Erik

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Went to the junkyard today, only have one near me and it's not that great. All the civics are torn apart and there's nothing really left except transmissions and shells. Couldn't find any rust-free replacements or valve covers. Looks like I'll have to work more on those pieces to see if i can restore them or check out ebay.

I'll only get a v-tec valve cover, I like the simplicity of the honda valve cover but I just prefer the 92-95 look more. I'll have to keep my eyes out.

I purchased a pair of pioneer 300 watt 3 way door speakers, they sound decent I guess. Nothing that really made me think "Wow!".

I want to lower this car and get a nice set of wheels (this kind appeals to me http://sheboygan.craigslist.org/pts/5048561669.html ) but I dont want to invest a ton of money into this car. If I lowered the car I'd want a proper set of coilovers which can be pricey, as far as I've been told.

I'll probably snatch a grill on ebay pretty soon, then. Thanks for all the compliments!
 

speedygonzales

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If you want just a moderate drop, I've heard nothing but good things about progress cs-II's and you can get a set for around 400 I believe. It's good for a 1-3 inch drop. I personally had a set of koni yellows on my old coupe that I combined with the old drop springs that were on it when I bought it. That's how it sat before I lowered the rear another inch or so.
 

lethal6

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^^^^^^That is NOT just lowering springs with Koni shocks. Those have to be hacked/cut if they aren't fully adjustable ones or one of those cheaper "sleeves" that are sold at "JDM" stores. From my understanding, there isn't a spring in production that will get you that low without being an adjustable threaded coil over type.
 

speedygonzales

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My bad for using the wrong terminology. The suspension set up on it when I bought it was drop zone "coilovers" with the threaded spring sleeves. The shocks were blown when I bought so I pulled the coilover sleeves off and threw them on the koni's.
 

lethal6

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When you said drop springs, I figured you meant drop zone, but I never jump to assumptions. That makes sense with how low it is in the front. The sleeves are a cheaper route to get a lot of height adjustment in a pinch.


My bad for using the wrong terminology. The suspension set up on it when I bought it was drop zone "coilovers" with the threaded spring sleeves. The shocks were blown when I bought so I pulled the coilover sleeves off and threw them on the koni's.
 

HeX

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I want to lower this car and get a nice set of wheels (this kind appeals to me)

... but I dont want to invest a ton of money into this car. If I lowered the car I'd want a proper set of coilovers which can be pricey, as far as I've been told.
I would suggest you go no larger than 16" rims on the Civic. Anything higher and you'll start experiencing clearance issues and wheel well rubbing. So why would you be deadset on coilovers if you dont want to get carried away financially? Have you checked out Teins entry level coilovers for around $600-$800? Check out the site store.

I purchased a pair of pioneer 300 watt 3 way door speakers, they sound decent I guess. Nothing that really made me think "Wow!".
Yeah. Pioneer speakers are of entry level quality nowadays. FYI, 300 watts is max wattage, which is useless information. Always pay attention to RMS ratings. I guess theres no chance you could return the speakers. Lesson learned.
 
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Erik

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I'll try to stick with 16" wheels then.

Idk, I don't want a super rough ride with just lowering springs, and I'm not one to go with the cheapest of the cheap. What's a good way to lower the car for no more than $500 and still have a reliable, somewhat smooth ride?

I can still return the speakers, that's not a big deal. Are there any that you know of for around $50 that produce some decent quality? I researched them quite a bit but I guess the average listener's sound preference is different than mine, because they got many 5 star ratings and they're definitely not that amazing.

Thanks.
 

HeX

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I'll try to stick with 16" wheels then. Idk, I don't want a super rough ride with just lowering springs, and I'm not one to go with the cheapest of the cheap. What's a good way to lower the car for no more than $500 and still have a reliable, somewhat smooth ride?
Only cheap no-name type lowering springs on crappy or OEM struts will give you a rough ride feel. I suggest my set-up, which many others have, which would be Koni Str.T struts with Tein S-tech lowering springs. I believe I got all that for about $450-$500 shipped. You will not hear any bad reviews with that set-up. I'm sure there are other reliable and comfortable set-ups, but you cant go wrong with it.

I can still return the speakers, that's not a big deal. Are there any that you know of for around $50 that produce some decent quality? I researched them quite a bit but I guess the average listener's sound preference is different than mine, because they got many 5 star ratings and they're definitely not that amazing.
Yeah. I find it sad when I read "great" reviews for Pioneer speakers nowadays. They havent made quality speakers since the '90s. My first suggestion is always MB Quart speakers (who now also make West Coast Custom speakers). MB Quart are a great German brand with awesome quality and extremely clear sound that wont crackle at higher volumes like crappy Pioneers will. Kickers and Alpines are safe quality bets too for around $50/pair speakers. For what its worth, I have a very particular ear for sound equipment but I always look for bang for my buck. Check out SonicElectronix.com (Ive ordered from them for years without a single issue and they ship quickly) & OnlineCarStereo.com (I've ordered a few times and had a delay once). They both have some great pricing.
 

Joe Mason

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I'll try to stick with 16" wheels then.

Idk, I don't want a super rough ride with just lowering springs, and I'm not one to go with the cheapest of the cheap. What's a good way to lower the car for no more than $500 and still have a reliable, somewhat smooth ride?

I can still return the speakers, that's not a big deal. Are there any that you know of for around $50 that produce some decent quality? I researched them quite a bit but I guess the average listener's sound preference is different than mine, because they got many 5 star ratings and they're definitely not that amazing.

Thanks.
Check out this amp http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-Electronics-XC1410-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0. I am using this little baby and have it tucked behind my head unit in the dash. Adds 50 watts RMS to your 4 interior speakers. My Pioneer door speakers don't crackle at any volume. Adding 50 real watts, not peak, makes a huge difference. And it was super easy to install. Clarion makes the connections modular so if by chance the amp does need to be removed/replaced there's just harnesses to unhook. amp.JPG
 

pmac193

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Very clean sedan. Avoid going with the ebay "type r style" products. Consider a USDM civic Si grill or UKDM "big H" grill. The surface rust on those brackets can be sanded off and painted. You can purchase new hardware from a site like http://downstarinc.com/Shop/
 

superhead91

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I bought a knockoff Type R grill for my EK coupe and it fit like crap. The bottom didn't attach and just stuck out. I ended up just sticking with the OEM grill.
 

HeX

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Check out this amp http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-Electronics-XC1410-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0. I am using this little baby and have it tucked behind my head unit in the dash. Adds 50 watts RMS to your 4 interior speakers. My Pioneer door speakers don't crackle at any volume. Adding 50 real watts, not peak, makes a huge difference. And it was super easy to install. Clarion makes the connections modular so if by chance the amp does need to be removed/replaced there's just harnesses to unhook.View attachment 25973
Alpine has some direct plug-in amps like that and theyre great. No wire splicing, just plug right into the Alpine harness. Just mentioning it for what its worth.
 


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