need clariety and help on turboing....

[novak]

rundown on my ride.... bought at an auction, a while back, at first glance appered to be an ex manual.

won the auction, 4100 paid w 62k on the clock, information was messed up it was a 1998 hx with an auto

never the less great condition and Im about to start the biggest week project I have ever done

so d 16y5 w cvt tranny (yeah joyous) previous owner has done work, full exhaust, short ram cheap intake, rims, brakes, and full alarm system.

my plans d16y8 swap w/ many trans and turbo......

the problem is that I have no idea what brands are bad and what brands are the golden choices

so I know this much....... convert to obd1 (p28 ecu I think is thee right ecu for my engine/ tranny) oil feed from the oil pressure sensor, return down to upper pan, get the log turbo many convert to a 2 or 3 bar map, run ic piping and mount fmic, bov on intake post turboand wastegate pre turbo on exhaust blah blah Ive studied and studied all that but I know as far as brands,...... nothing I know ebay kits are a no no but what should I look for as far as brands

if this helps im going for around 200whp mainly stock internals on the engine (d16y8)

ohh and further more the previous owner somehow deleted the o2 sensors with out the ecu throwing any code what so ever (been driving it for about 8 months now) no codes what so ever? the wide band o2 sensors are they a must or will I have to reverse engineer that delete?

 

[HeX]

Please try to improve the coherence in your future posts, because I only partially understand this thread due to your constant misspellings, grammar, and apparent abbreviations. I'm not fluent with turbo upgrades so you totally lost me there. Please dont feel insulted, but we're all more inclined to offer help when we clearly understand your questions. Here's what I think you meant to say:

- You purchased a Civic at an auction thinking it was a '97 5-speed EX only to discover it is a '98 HX (D16Y5) with a CVT tranny.
- It has a complete exhaust system swap, short ram intake, upgraded brakes & alarm; you're unaware of any of their brands.
- You intend to swap or convert the stock D16y5 engine with a D16y8 and convert it to an OBD1 ECU to add a turbo.
- You're unsure of what quality brands to use and which brands to avoid

I first ask to please clarify your comments about the D16y5 and D16y8 and if you want to convert from y5 to y8, since you mentioned both with limited explanation. Also, I dont believe it is possible to successfully delete the O2 sensors so I'm inclined to believe they pulled out the "Check Engine" bulb in the cluster. Without O2 sensors, you engine should run rather roughly and be getting low miles per gallon. Have you ran a diagnostic on the ECU to confirm it reads no code? Have you calculated your MPG?

 

[novak]

Sorry about the misspellings, and the grammatical errors.
But, yes I have checked the ecu for codes, I'm going to college to be a technician, so I have access to all Snap-On tools including the newest diagnostic computers and code readers.

I can reassure you that there are no codes for any o2 sensors, or any emission codes, the only code I get is the intake air temperature sensor due to a short in the harness.

and the fuel mileage is 37 highway last time I checked.

also, yes you're right on what I intend to do, however I do know the exhaust is dc sport, the short ram is spectra with an AEM filter, the breaks are wildwood, and the alarm is a knock off brand.

Furthermore, yes I need help with what brands I should stay away form and what brands i need to know,
as of right now i only know of HKS, Garrett, and Turbotechniques.

 

[XpL0d3r]

What code # are you getting? If you're getting a code for the IAT, you should still get a CEL.

Are you completely positive there are no o2 sensors anywhere on the exhaust? I can see going cat-less and using the O2 non-fowler trick to avoid it throwing a code, but with no O2 sensors your car will run like crap unless it's been tuned to continuously run open loop. Since it's an ODB2 ECU that doesn't seem likely.

If you plan on turbo'ing the car, brand of intake won't matter since it's going to go away, and you'll probably need to hack into the DC Sport exhaust to get it to play nicely with the downpipe, depending on what you get.

I think you're thinking of Turbonetics (NOT Turbotechniques like you've mentioned; never heard of them).

You'll just need to research to find brands to your liking as everyone has different opinions. Stay away from eBay crap though!

 

[HeX]

Are you completely positive there are no o2 sensors anywhere on the exhaust? I can see going cat-less and using the O2 non-fowler trick to avoid it throwing a code, but with no O2 sensors your car will run like crap unless it's been tuned to continuously run open loop. Since it's an ODB2 ECU that doesn't seem likely.

I agree.

You'll just need to research to find brands to your liking as everyone has different opinions. Stay away from eBay crap though!

There are so many brands out there that it all depends on the specific part or application. Just ask for our brand suggestions one project or application at a time & search the forum too.

 

[novak]

Thanks for the info guys, but yes it does throw the CEL but its always the iat sensor no other codes

but as for the exhaust I don't mind hacking into it, furthermore on the O2 sensors there are none on the exhaust, when I first noticed it I thought it might of had the simulators on it but I can not even find where they might be.

Using the Snap-On verus scan tool, it says that the o2 sensors are not available, and that the CEL is off. So I don't know what is done, nor how.

but why mentioned that is because of the wide band O2 sensor for turboing purposes



but why I ask of the reputable and reliable brands is because I have no knowledge, and yes turbonectics not turbotechniques, im not to rehearsed on the forced induction brands

so any information would be very apriciated

 

[novak]

and as far as unning like crap, I idle at 700 RPM, quarter mile (ran it just to see what it did) 17.9 first fun 18.2 second run

as far as running open and closed loop, (according to the verus scan tool) it does go into closed once the ECT sensor reads 176f

and the IAT code I get is P0112 intake air temperature sensor low voltage input

 

[XpL0d3r]

and as far as unning like crap, I idle at 700 RPM, quarter mile (ran it just to see what it did) 17.9 first fun 18.2 second run

as far as running open and closed loop, (according to the verus scan tool) it does go into closed once the ECT sensor reads 176f

and the IAT code I get is P0112 intake air temperature sensor low voltage input

Makes sense. When a car warms up it will run open loop until it reaches operating temps. Once it switches to closed loop the ECU will adjust A/F ratio based on reading from the O2 sensors. This is why your car will run like s**t if you don't have the sensors present. So they have to be there somewhere AFAIK. Do you have a cat on the exhaust? Look for two sensors - one before, and one after the cat. Primary may even be on the header somewhere.

700 idle is slightly low I believe. I can't remember correctly because my idle was adjusted slightly with my tune.

 

[novak]

on the auto hx according all-data (dealership service information center) idle should be anywhere form 650-750 depending on incoming air

the exhaust I have is a full dc sport 4-2-1 header to twin resonators no cat no sensors, I have searched for O2 simulators but to no success

im just as dumbfounded as the next guy, and that's my problem

 

[XpL0d3r]

on the auto hx according all-data (dealership service information center) idle should be anywhere form 650-750 depending on incoming air

the exhaust I have is a full dc sport 4-2-1 header to twin resonators no cat no sensors, I have searched for O2 simulators but to no success

im just as dumbfounded as the next guy, and that's my problem

Ah I stand corrected on the idle then, my apologies.

That is very strange. Are you sure the whole motor is a Y5, and not a Y5 block some ODBI head / ECU?

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

It is possible to delete the inputs to the ECU from the O2 sensors. As to why someone would even take the time on a stock HX (especially since the y5 is so dependent on the 5 wire 02 to activate/control it's lean burn mode), well who knows.

 

[XpL0d3r]

It is possible to delete the inputs to the ECU from the O2 sensors. As to why someone would even take the time on a stock HX (especially since the y5 is so dependent on the 5 wire 02 to activate/control it's lean burn mode), well who knows.

Wtfff. Definitely seems like a waste of effort.

 

[RonJ]

Are you sure the whole motor is a Y5, and not a Y5 block some ODBI head / ECU?

This^

OP ---> Post the block, head, and transmission codes, and remove the passenger kick panel to see what ECU is installed.

Also post some clear pictures of the engine bay.

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

Wtfff. Definitely seems like a waste of effort.

If there is no bungs for o2 sensors the person who put it on may of had it chipped as to not throw the code anymore, BUT again how dumb would that be. I also don't know an exhaust that doesn't have some sort or bung for the o2 anywhere. Y5s are best just left alone IMO, enjoy the incredible mileage and low maintenance.

 

[RonJ]

Y5s are best just left alone IMO, enjoy the incredible mileage and low maintenance.

 

[RonJ]

Stock Y5 IM, EM, and exhaust:

 

[novak]

Ok so I had my car up in the air today, searching for anything and I found them!!!!
Well sort of, it was a small box that had the O2 sensor wires going into it. simulator maybe?

So what I did was rip out that box and snagged some new O2 sensors from a scrap yard and got them in.

Had to do the spark plug non fouler thing but they are monitoring the exhaust now, still with no codes.

by what I can tell the head is the y5 head, I know the block is a y5, and the ecu is P2N.

I did have to weld bungs into the pipe for the O2 sensors, along with welding 4 cracks together, must've been why I had a weird crackle sound....

and I can get pics of the engine bay up in a few got to let my camera charge. tomorrow I will take some of the weird box and the exhaust ( I left the box at my school where I did this at)

 

[novak]

engine bay showing headers

close-up of headers

piping underneath you can see one of the O2 sensors I put in

rear where it splits into the 2 resonators the drivers side is behind the camera

 

[XpL0d3r]

Nice. Glad you got that sorted out! Post a pic of the box thing if you get a chance, I'm interested to see what it is.

 

[Charlie5280]

Here is what you need to know.

Tuning....tuning...tuning...tuning.

It's all in the tune. Make sure the fuel system is supported......get a good tuner, and the rest is easy. A