New to site/Check Engine Problem

MLC

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Quick question. I'm doing this first thing tomorrow morning and was wondering as I was looking up the information you provided. Is it going to be an issue that my light only comes on when the car is actually turned on and sitting idle for a few minutes? That's the only way it'll come on. Other than that, it's never been on while it's not started. Obviously the codes are stored and will flash when being checked? =)
 


RonJ

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For 5th generation Civics like yours, sometimes the CEL code will not store in the ECU after the engine is turned off. Go ahead and try to pull the code(s) with the engine off. If no code is found, remove the wire from the service connector but don't reinstall the kick panel. Then drive the car until the CEL turns on, pull over or drive home and leave the engine idling while you again jump the service connector. This will allow you to recover the code.
 

MLC

New Member
Codes read 4 and 7. 4 read first then 7. Is their a priority with code reads? I have a print out of these codes. TDC/CRANK/CYL Sensor for 4.. Throttle Angle Sensor CKT is 7. These need to be replaced, obviously. Anyone know prices, etc;?
 


Hecz

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Codes read 4 and 7. 4 read first then 7. Is their a priority with code reads? I have a print out of these codes. TDC/CRANK/CYL Sensor for 4.. Throttle Angle Sensor CKT is 7. These need to be replaced, obviously. Anyone know prices, etc;?
Those are Inside the distributor.
 

Hecz

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Best to replace the entire distributor or get those parts and replace them?
I have never replaced those by themselves. im not even sure if its possible. So yea, it might be best just to replace the distributor. Like Ron said, replace it with OEM
 

MLC

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I have never replaced those by themselves. im not even sure if its possible. So yea, it might be best just to replace the distributor. Like Ron said, replace it with OEM
Will do. Thank you all for the help. Probably one of the best sites I've been to for Honda advice! Will recommend others to come here if they have questions. You guys are awesome. =)
 

Hecz

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No problem. Lets see what Ron has to say.
 

RonJ

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Given that the CKP sensor is inside the distributor, code 4 fits with the distributor noise you are hearing. Replace the distributor (based both on code 4 and the distributor noise).

Code 7 indicates a problem in the TPS sensor circuit. This sensor has a three wire connector and is located on the throttle body. Reset the ECU to see whether code 7 repeats, after you replace the distributor.
 

Hecz

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Given that the CKP sensor is inside the distributor, code 4 fits with the distributor noise you are hearing. Replace the distributor (based both on code 4 and the distributor noise).

Code 7 indicates a problem in the TPS sensor circuit. This sensor has a three wire connector and is located on the throttle body. Reset the ECU to see whether code 7 repeats, after you replace the distributor.
:thumbup: cool beans cool beans!
 

MLC

New Member
Update - Replaced my distributor, no CEL anymore. I now have noise coming from somewhere in the engine, but I can't pinpoint it. This is the same noise that I heard coming from what I had replaced, and well.. Apparently that didn't fix the problem.. Only fixed the CEL. I did buy a new throttle position sensor, but because Ron said wait until you replace the dizzy and see if it fixes the CEL.. It did. So, now I need to return it. If possible.. Anyway.. Not entirely sure what's going on. I know that the timing is off maybe 2-3 degrees. Fixing that tomorrow. New dizzy is an OEM. 1.5.. Re-manufactured. Recorded some video of the noise. Any tips/advice?

http://youtu.be/IhVOCTRtezs
 

RonJ

Banned
1) Reset the ECU to see whether it has any effect on the noise.

2) If not, Harbor Freight Tools sells a $4 engine stethoscope. Buy one and use it to precisely pinpoint the noise. With the engine running, touch parts of the engine and listen where the noise is the loudest.

3) Call local auto parts stores to see whether they rent an inductive timing light and then use it to adjust the ignition timing to spec. Or maybe you have a friend who has one.


 

Hecz

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Intersting, I can only guess where that sound is coming from :( Which doesn't really help. I remember after i replaced my distributor the sound that it made was not a complete smooth sound, it sounded a little rough, but when i adjusted the timing that sound went away. Thanks for posting the video though.
 

Kurt114

New Member
My car will be just fine while I'm driving. Sounds normal, works perfectly. Once I'm in idle (MOST of the time), my RPM's will lower just a little bit. Around 1
 


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