268,000 km = 162,000 milesIf it's not the seal I'd be suprised, with that many miles-it's due.
What wears the seal out is worn crank bearings, that allows
the crank to wobble ever so slightly and that's what wears
it out. If you replace the seal and don't replace the bearings
the new one will leak after just a couple thousand miles-(99% of the time).
A main bearing job done correctly is not necessarily a simple matter for the average backyard mechanic, who would likely be intimidated by the details involved, hence my comment about replacing the engine. Here is what's involved with doing a main bearing job correctly, if the clearances turn out not to be excessive:Replace the engine? no way.
He already had the pan off, once off it's easy to slip new main bearings in 1 at a time.
I sealed it using hondabond, gave everything a pretty thorough clean to ensure all of the old gasket was indeed off and tightened the bolts in the manner specified in the haynes manual (start from the middle and work from side to side in a criss cross fashion three times slowly working up to the required torque...) in the back of my mind I had a feeling the rear main might fail like this too lolWhen the oil pan gasket was replaced, did you seal it with a silicone based gasket maker (like the one below) and did you torque the nuts and bolts in order to spec?
Do you have any oil leaks from the top of the engine, such as the valve cover, distributor, or VTEC solenoid? Such oil can drip down below and accumulate where your picture was taken.
The switch is located just above the oil filter:had an oil leak from the oil filter (as it has an aftermarket sandwich plate on there, sorted that with a liberal amount of hondabond on both plate and filter (had to try it)) but that was a few days ago and everything was cleaned up.
pic of oil pressure switch?
as I was seeing oil gathering under the oil filter location prior to me hondabonding that area