Oil leak: Sump (oil pan)/rear main seal related?

EK1.6LCIV

bustin' out the OEM goodz
5+ Year Member
thoughts, just changed the sump gasket and now this small leak lol

possible rear main seal?, engine has 268,000kms on it, doubtful that the seal has even been touched seeing as it's still on its oem clutch lol

 

RonJ

Banned
When the oil pan gasket was replaced, did you seal it with a silicone based gasket maker (like the one below) and did you torque the nuts and bolts in order to spec?

Do you have any oil leaks from the top of the engine, such as the valve cover, distributor, or VTEC solenoid? Such oil can drip down below and accumulate where your picture was taken.


 


JCCLARK

The Painter
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
If it's not the seal I'd be suprised, with that many miles-it's due.
What wears the seal out is worn crank bearings, that allows
the crank to wobble ever so slightly and that's what wears
it out. If you replace the seal and don't replace the bearings
the new one will leak after just a couple thousand miles-(99% of the time).
 

RonJ

Banned
If it's not the seal I'd be suprised, with that many miles-it's due.
What wears the seal out is worn crank bearings, that allows
the crank to wobble ever so slightly and that's what wears
it out. If you replace the seal and don't replace the bearings
the new one will leak after just a couple thousand miles-(99% of the time).
268,000 km = 162,000 miles

This is low mileage for a Civic.

Your suggestions to the OP seem way over the top. You basically want him to replace the engine. OP: Rule out the simple before considering such extreme possibilities like those posted above.
 


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JCCLARK

The Painter
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
Replace the engine? no way.
He already had the pan off, once off it's easy to slip new main bearings in 1 at a time.
But I agree, rule out the easy stuff first.
But rear seal leak is pretty common.
 

RonJ

Banned
Replace the engine? no way.
He already had the pan off, once off it's easy to slip new main bearings in 1 at a time.
A main bearing job done correctly is not necessarily a simple matter for the average backyard mechanic, who would likely be intimidated by the details involved, hence my comment about replacing the engine. Here is what's involved with doing a main bearing job correctly, if the clearances turn out not to be excessive:



 
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EK1.6LCIV

bustin' out the OEM goodz
5+ Year Member
When the oil pan gasket was replaced, did you seal it with a silicone based gasket maker (like the one below) and did you torque the nuts and bolts in order to spec?

Do you have any oil leaks from the top of the engine, such as the valve cover, distributor, or VTEC solenoid? Such oil can drip down below and accumulate where your picture was taken.


I sealed it using hondabond, gave everything a pretty thorough clean to ensure all of the old gasket was indeed off and tightened the bolts in the manner specified in the haynes manual (start from the middle and work from side to side in a criss cross fashion three times slowly working up to the required torque...) in the back of my mind I had a feeling the rear main might fail like this too lol

just changed the valve cover gasket a few months ago, no leaks any where there, obvious ones I looked at were the distributor/vtec gasket/o-ring areas as I'm pretty much the last of the group I know who hasn't had one go.

Thanks for the diagrams above, not something I'm at all contemplating to have a go at completing at home a bit above my league of mechanical experience, looks like I'll get a clutch from ebay during tax and have the rear main replaced then, cheers for all of the info =)
 

RonJ

Banned
Also check for an oil leak from the oil pressure switch or the nearby oil filter. Oil from those locations could also drip to the bottom area between the engine and transmission.
 

EK1.6LCIV

bustin' out the OEM goodz
5+ Year Member
had an oil leak from the oil filter (as it has an aftermarket sandwich plate on there, sorted that with a liberal amount of hondabond on both plate and filter (had to try it)) but that was a few days ago and everything was cleaned up.

pic of oil pressure switch? =)

as I was seeing oil gathering under the oil filter location prior to me hondabonding that area
 

reyscivic

5th gen owner
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
on the very top of the pic there is a really big crack, would that have anything to do with it?
 

RonJ

Banned
had an oil leak from the oil filter (as it has an aftermarket sandwich plate on there, sorted that with a liberal amount of hondabond on both plate and filter (had to try it)) but that was a few days ago and everything was cleaned up.

pic of oil pressure switch? =)

as I was seeing oil gathering under the oil filter location prior to me hondabonding that area
The switch is located just above the oil filter:

 

EK1.6LCIV

bustin' out the OEM goodz
5+ Year Member
now that is by far the most comprehensive pic I've seen in months! thanks very very much =)

looks like dodge forging, just had a look not cracked lol (phew)
 

thambi23

New Member
how can a rear seal leak be fixed..? same on my car a mechanic told me he can seal it but he was taking about some crazy price saying 300$ i was like umm na im okk.. lol any feedback
 

VSP

Just hand me the wrench.
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
^^^ The rear seal costs around 20 bucks. The $300 overhead is to compensate the time and labor involved with removing the transmission and clutch to get at it.

There's several great DIY's lying around here that are specific to our model year with helpful pictures too; a google search will pull them up.
 


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