omg B16 Idle Problem

1991civicb16

Guest
Well my idle is surging. I already checked vacuum lines. Nothing wrong with them. The problem only happens when the car gets warmed up and i rev it then when it comes back down it starts to bounce but if i were to just start it and let it sit the car will idle fine. I have read about the bid three things for this and from what i read things like FITV,IACV, and the vacuum lines. Can someone post were the fitv and iacv are located so i can look for those and check them. Also if anyone has any ideas before then i would appreciate it.
 

RonJ

Banned
Click the FITV and IACV links in my signature. I'd start with the FITV.
 


1991civicb16

Guest
Click the FITV and IACV links in my signature. I'd start with the FITV.
Thanks i will check it out. Also can this be done without removing the im from the engine? i hope so cause that is a pain for sure.
 

RonJ

Banned
You may be able to just remove the FITV itself. At most, you'd need to remove the throttle body.
 


1991civicb16

Guest
You may be able to just remove the FITV itself. At most, you'd need to remove the throttle body.
Nope the Fitv was fine looked like it was cleaned before too. I did however spray sea foam on it and scrubbed them and put back together. So i guess iacv next..... Also for anyone who googles how to do this later on a b16 manifold you dont need to remove the throttle body the fitv comes off really easy. LOL FML i just sent a text to the previous owner and he says that a shop replace the IACV already......
 

1991civicb16

Guest
Hope you get it figured out man. Let us know what you find out about the iacv.
Well i text previous owner and he said he had a shop replace the IACV any other ideas? Was thinking maby the vacuum lines might not be connected to the correct areas but wouldn't that make it always surge?
 

1991civicb16

Guest
The FITV can be adjusted. Did you try that?
Just got back in from pulling the IACV off and it didnt look that bad i still cleaned it because i pulled it off. Still nothing i pulled the ECU fuse to reset it and still nothing i sprayed brake cleaner over the vacuum lines and no leaks im stuck...... i even opened the ecu and it dont smell burnt. also yes my car idles really high 1k even with the idle screwed in and the FITV screwed all the way down.
 

RonJ

Banned
Pull the air intake off to expose the throttle body. With the engine warmed up and idling, use your finger to cover the port leading to the FITV inside the throttle body. Do you feel any suction? Did the idle speed drop? Now do the same test on the port leading to the IACV inside the throttle body. Post the results.

Next use you hand to cover the top of the throttle body. Are you able to kill the engine?
 

1991civicb16

Guest
Pull the air intake off to expose the throttle body. With the engine warmed up and idling, use your finger to cover the port leading to the FITV inside the throttle body. Do you feel any suction? Did the idle speed drop? Now do the same test on the port leading to the IACV inside the throttle body. Post the results.

Next use you hand to cover the top of the throttle body. Are you able to kill the engine?
Ok im back just checked that and the FITV I don't feel any suction when the vehicle is warmed up. When i plug the IACV the car dies.
 

RonJ

Banned
Are you running an OBD0 ECU? Are any CEL codes thrown?

What happens to the idle speed if you unplug the IACV connector?
 

1991civicb16

Guest
Are you running an OBD0 ECU? Are any CEL codes thrown?

What happens to the idle speed if you unplug the IACV connector?
I am running a chrome chipped P28. I have no CEL. I am guessing the connector you are talking about is the electrical one on the bottom right of the IACV and when i pull that the car dies.
 

RonJ

Banned
Based on your tests results, it appears that the IACV is working. The problem seems to be that the ECU is improperly telling the IACV to bypass too much air to the intake manifold.

1) Try bleeding the cooling system.

2) Troubleshoot the ECT sensor.

3) Troubleshoot the TPS.
 

1991civicb16

Guest
Based on your tests results, it appears that the IACV is working. The problem seems to be that the ECU is improperly telling the IACV to bypass too much air to the intake manifold.

1) Try bleeding the cooling system.

2) Troubleshoot the ECT sensor.

3) Troubleshoot the TPS.
Quick question before i try all that i noticed my bleeder valve is missing and it looks like someone put a bolt in its place. How can i go about bleeding it if there is now a bolt in the bleeder valve location. Also if this helps any i notice my vents blow hot air even before my heat gauge even starts to raise, and it takes it a while to start moving up.
 

RonJ

Banned
Quick question before i try all that i noticed my bleeder valve is missing and it looks like someone put a bolt in its place. How can i go about bleeding it if there is now a bolt in the bleeder valve location.
Can you remove the bolt?
 

RonJ

Banned
I havent tried but i dont see why i cant. Should i just unscrew it tell some coolent leaks out them tighten it?
That's what I was thinking. Bleeding would be something like this:

(may take 20-30 minutes)

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/knob to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below (hint: the bleed bolt is located where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine):

 

1991civicb16

Guest
That's what I was thinking. Bleeding would be something like this:

(may take 20-30 minutes)

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/knob to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below (hint: the bleed bolt is located where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine):

Still nothing I give up repair man can have my money lol. I will let you know what they figure out.
 


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