Question for you boosted 6th gen folks

Modest Throttle

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what's up people.......question: Since I plan to eventually turbo my D16, would it be ok to build the motor (internals) for boost without actually boosting it right away? Cause I was planning on rebuilding the motor when it needed it. But I figure if I'm gonna be rebuilding it, might as well build it for boost since that's my ultimate goal. So that way the motor's ready for the turbo whenever I am. Or is that a bad idea? Oh, and my HP goal is somewhere around 200, so nothing too crazy.
 

civic92si

Gina my Lady in red
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yeah, u can build it. i had my car running SRP piston and Eagle Rod with eagle blockguard before turboing it again. =)
 


Modest Throttle

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yeah, u can build it. i had my car running SRP piston and Eagle Rod with eagle blockguard before turboing it again. =)
Tight. I've heard good things about Eagle rods, so I'll probably go with them. I'll look into SRP pistons. What else should I be looking at for upgrading the internals? Should I redo the cylinder walls? Sleeves?
 

civic92si

Gina my Lady in red
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head studs....if you have money then resleeve, take the block to a shop where they can bore and hone, so you know what size piston you need...also, srp are the cheaper brand of JE..well JE can hold more power..made from same company.
 


Modest Throttle

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head studs....if you have money then resleeve, take the block to a shop where they can bore and hone, so you know what size piston you need...also, srp are the cheaper brand of JE..well JE can hold more power..made from same company.
cool thanks man
 

SleepingSol

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head studs....if you have money then resleeve, take the block to a shop where they can bore and hone, so you know what size piston you need...also, srp are the cheaper brand of JE..well JE can hold more power..made from same company.

I had a set of srp's. I would recommend wiseco instead. JE pistons have a thinner wall around the wrist pin. So one missed shift and over rev and you run a higher risk of blowing it than with wiseco. As far as sleeving/ boring you buy the pistons first then have the block bored/honed. After you have the pistons you send them with the block to the shop so they can hone each cylander to the exact size of each piston.
 

charlie brown

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I had a set of srp's. I would recommend wiseco instead. JE pistons have a thinner wall around the wrist pin. So one missed shift and over rev and you run a higher risk of blowing it than with wiseco. As far as sleeving/ boring you buy the pistons first then have the block bored/honed. After you have the pistons you send them with the block to the shop so they can hone each cylander to the exact size of each piston.
This. definitely. good, good advise.
 

Modest Throttle

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I had a set of srp's. I would recommend wiseco instead. JE pistons have a thinner wall around the wrist pin. So one missed shift and over rev and you run a higher risk of blowing it than with wiseco. As far as sleeving/ boring you buy the pistons first then have the block bored/honed. After you have the pistons you send them with the block to the shop so they can hone each cylander to the exact size of each piston.
thanks for the info man, I'll look into wiseco
 

civic92si

Gina my Lady in red
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are you just trying to build the bottom? or the head too? in my opionion i suggest getting block guard...






that was like 2 years ago...
 

Modest Throttle

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Yeah head too, I was thinkin about goin y8 head maybe. Basically I'll be looking to get the motor all ready for boost
 

SleepingSol

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block gaurd is a good idea if you stay with the stock sleeves. if you spend the cash and get it resleeved with ductile sleeves (i.e. darton or golden eagle) there is no need for one. I would highly recommend a metal head gasket.

as for the head, the y8 head is my recommendation. Look into springs/retainers and if you feel the need to upgrade the cam there are still a few companies out their that make aftermarket cams for the y8. Blox and Comp Cams being the first two that come to mind.
 

Modest Throttle

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block gaurd is a good idea if you stay with the stock sleeves. if you spend the cash and get it resleeved with ductile sleeves (i.e. darton or golden eagle) there is no need for one. I would highly recommend a metal head gasket.

as for the head, the y8 head is my recommendation. Look into springs/retainers and if you feel the need to upgrade the cam there are still a few companies out their that make aftermarket cams for the y8. Blox and Comp Cams being the first two that come to mind.
Good to know. Would the stock y8 cam be ok for boost? My dad has a buddy who runs a machine shop, so I'd probably go there to get it bored/honed. I'm slightly confused, if I bore/hone it, would I still need to re-sleeve?
 

civic92si

Gina my Lady in red
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block gaurd is a good idea if you stay with the stock sleeves. if you spend the cash and get it resleeved with ductile sleeves (i.e. darton or golden eagle) there is no need for one. I would highly recommend a metal head gasket.

as for the head, the y8 head is my recommendation. Look into springs/retainers and if you feel the need to upgrade the cam there are still a few companies out their that make aftermarket cams for the y8. Blox and Comp Cams being the first two that come to mind.
if i resleeve it i would still go with block guard and stock bore size, most resleeve motor still use block guard. and stay with the stock sleeve size will help your motor last longer. ex; 81MM stock, 84MM over bore, you will blow your motor because your sleeve is thinner.

Good to know. Would the stock y8 cam be ok for boost? My dad has a buddy who runs a machine shop, so I'd probably go there to get it bored/honed. I'm slightly confused, if I bore/hone it, would I still need to re-sleeve?
no if you bore and hone u dont. but make sure its like .25mm over or .50mm over. the lower it is the better for the motor. i recommend get your piston after machine it so u will know exactly what size u need
 

charlie brown

smokey
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if i resleeve it i would still go with block guard and stock bore size, most resleeve motor still use block guard. and stay with the stock sleeve size will help your motor last longer. ex; 81MM stock, 84MM over bore, you will blow your motor because your sleeve is thinner.
no if you bore and hone u dont. but make sure its like .25mm over or .50mm over. the lower it is the better for the motor. i recommend get your piston after machine it so u will know exactly what size u need


I have never seen the use of a block guard in a sleeved motor. i didnt even think it was possible. if im wrong , correct me, but i dont think you can run both.
Also, if you machine your block and then buy your pistons, you run the high risk of an inexact fit. this could result in major cylinder wall damage among other nightmarish things to fix.

IMO, decide what bore you want, buy your pistons and piston rings. send them with your block to what ever machine shop you use. they will bore and hone your block and match each piston to a individual cylinder. while they are at it, have them gap and match your piston rings to a cylinder and install them on the piston. Your motor will love you for it. :party2:
g.l. with it all =)
 

Modest Throttle

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I have never seen the use of a block guard in a sleeved motor. i didnt even think it was possible. if im wrong , correct me, but i dont think you can run both.
Also, if you machine your block and then buy your pistons, you run the high risk of an inexact fit. this could result in major cylinder wall damage among other nightmarish things to fix.

IMO, decide what bore you want, buy your pistons and piston rings. send them with your block to what ever machine shop you use. they will bore and hone your block and match each piston to a individual cylinder. while they are at it, have them gap and match your piston rings to a cylinder and install them on the piston. Your motor will love you for it. :party2:
g.l. with it all =)
if i resleeve it i would still go with block guard and stock bore size, most resleeve motor still use block guard. and stay with the stock sleeve size will help your motor last longer. ex; 81MM stock, 84MM over bore, you will blow your motor because your sleeve is thinner.



no if you bore and hone u dont. but make sure its like .25mm over or .50mm over. the lower it is the better for the motor. i recommend get your piston after machine it so u will know exactly what size u need
Thanks guys great info. The more research on this I do, the more complicated it becomes, but i have a while until I want to do this so leaves more time for research.
 

civic92si

Gina my Lady in red
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resleeved without block guard.



resleeve+Block guard.

reason why i said buy your piston after is that what if you can go 81.25 instead of 81.5 and you buy 81.5mm piston, you lose the .25mm from your stock sleeve, thats all im saying =)
 

charlie brown

smokey
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resleeved without block guard.



resleeve+Block guard.

reason why i said buy your piston after is that what if you can go 81.25 instead of 81.5 and you buy 81.5mm piston, you lose the .25mm from your stock sleeve, thats all im saying =)
ok, i thought you ment like a golden eagle sleeve job. there sleeves have ribs as a part of the sleeve its self. it is not a stock re-sleeve with a separate block guard installed after.
i still stand by my statement that it is unwise to bore then buy your pistons. you are actually the first person i have heard say that. can you show me some kind of pdf by a reputable source that says this. Call golden eagle and ask them if you should match a piston to a cylinder like that. i know they will tell you different. Over all i feel that no matter what bore is used, you must send your pistons with the block before it is bored and finish honed.
 


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