questions on removing engine

[Riick]

Removing my engine (D15B7 in a 93 DX) and have questions...

1) Do I need that special ball joint tool to pull the lower control arm off the ball joint? (Service manual says its needed but I also heard I can pry the lower control arm downwards while hammering it where it goes around the ball joint.) What have people tried? If I need the special tool where would I get it?

2) For removing the spindle bolt, I heard the hub can be anchored by sticking a screwdriver in the rotor so it catches against the caliper. But doesn't this damage the rotor or caliper (or screwdriver)? Is there a better way?

3) Going to need to pull the flywheel too- does it need a torx socket or something? Anyone know what size?

4) What other tools will I need? All I have is the following:
- 3/8" drive 6-pt. sockets + ratchet + 6" extension + 8" t-handle + 18" cheater bar,
- 1/2" drive impact sockets + 18" t-handle + adaptor for using 3/8 ratchet.
- 2 lb hammer.
- pb blaster
- propane torch
- talent for getting in over my head

 

[MistahJuice]

1) I generally use a mix of this and a pickle fork:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W142/N2416.oap?ck=Search_pitman+arm+pullers_-1_-1&keyword=pitman+arm+pullers

2) I wouldn't put something against the caliper but just make sure you punch out the indent in it then if you have a friend to step on the brakes or if you have wheels with center caps you can take out the center cap put the car back on the ground and do it like that. I don't remember it ever being too much of a problem even before I had air tools though. Also hit it with pb blaster and the torch if necessary.

3) The flywheel bolts will require a 12 point socket and I believe they're either 12mm or 14mm but I don't remember for sure but they're larger than 10's and smaller than 17's so for Honda that only leaves 12 and 14.

4) A manual for your car. It'll make life a bit easier.

 

[Riick]

1) I generally use a mix of this and a pickle fork:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W142/N2416.oap?ck=Search_pitman+arm+pullers_-1_-1&keyword=pitman+arm+pullers

I'm kind of pressed for time so ordering something isn't too good, but I'm going to see if I can find something similar at autozone or something.

if you have wheels with center caps you can take out the center cap put the car back on the ground and do it like that.

Neat I'm going to try that.

3) The flywheel bolts will require a 12 point socket.

You mean the standard 12 point sockets designed for six-sided bolts? Those must be some weird bolts.

4) A manual for your car. It'll make life a bit easier.

I have the honda service manual on my computer, but it's a little cryptic about what tools to use. Is there some other manual which actually tells you what sockets to use for each bolt and such?

 

[xXDeathMaliCeXx]

I have the honda service manual on my computer, but it's a little cryptic about what tools to use. Is there some other manual which actually tells you what sockets to use for each bolt and such?

I highly recommend a Chiltons Manual for your car. Tells you pretty much everything you'd ever need to know, including torque specs and such

 

[gugiey]

12 point socket for the 12 point bolts on the fly wheel

 

[civexspeedy]

Removing my engine (D15B7 in a 93 DX) and have questions...

1) Do I need that special ball joint tool to pull the lower control arm off the ball joint? (Service manual says its needed but I also heard I can pry the lower control arm downwards while hammering it where it goes around the ball joint.) What have people tried? If I need the special tool where would I get it?

2) For removing the spindle bolt, I heard the hub can be anchored by sticking a screwdriver in the rotor so it catches against the caliper. But doesn't this damage the rotor or caliper (or screwdriver)? Is there a better way?

3) Going to need to pull the flywheel too- does it need a torx socket or something? Anyone know what size?

4) What other tools will I need? All I have is the following:
- 3/8" drive 6-pt. sockets + ratchet + 6" extension + 8" t-handle + 18" cheater bar,
- 1/2" drive impact sockets + 18" t-handle + adaptor for using 3/8 ratchet.
- 2 lb hammer.
- pb blaster
- propane torch
- talent for getting in over my head

1) Rent a ball joint separator from Advanced Auto or w/e local auto parts store is near you. Don't let them give you a pickle fork or w/e. In my experience, they really suck and can damage the ball joint boots.
Get the one that looks like this. Easy to use.

2) Impact gun, a good one. I've broken a 1/2" breaker bar trying to get the axle nuts off of my car and I know many others who have done the same. Nothing works better than an impact gun. 2 seconds and it's off with zero hassle.

3) The bolts that hold the flywheel to the crankshaft you'll need a 12 point socket. IIRC, it is either 17 or 19mm. If you need to remove the clutch, there are a few 10mm bolts that need a 12 point socket.

4) If you don't have an impact gun, invest in one. Easily the best money you'll ever spend for a tool. If you don't have a ton of money to spend, at least get the Craftsman 1/2" electric impact. Decently priced, fairly strong for an electric gun, good size, easy to use. You can use it on just about anything for this project minus the axle nuts. For those you'll need a high power air gun.

 

[Riick]

1) Rent a ball joint separator from Advanced Auto or w/e local auto parts store is near you.

Good idea. Not sure they'll have it but I'll check.

3) The bolts that hold the flywheel to the crankshaft you'll need a 12 point socket. IIRC, it is either 17 or 19mm. If you need to remove the clutch, there are a few 10mm bolts that need a 12 point socket.

Great info.

4) If you don't have an impact gun, invest in one. Easily the best money you'll ever spend for a tool. If you don't have a ton of money to spend, at least get the Craftsman 1/2" electric impact.

I'm sure it's worth every penny of the $140 it costs, but I'm on a budget so my plan is to break my T-handle first and then buy. (Smart, huh?) I'll keep my eyes out for a sale; I know one just ended though. As for the axle nuts, they look fairly new so I'll just keep my fingers crossed that my t-handle will work.


New question:
There's an electrical connector just above the oil filter which will not come off easily. Does it pull straight out, or unscrew, or what? I don't want to break it. Any tips? More force or what?

 

[mymmeryloss]

Cut it and wire it back together when u put it back in


Sent from my Butthole using Fart power!

 

[Riick]

Cut it and wire it back together when u put it back in

I found some pictures of this sensor (it is the "oil pressure switch"). The pictures showed that the connector is designed to pull straight out. In my case the problem was that the boot was stuck to the hex nut. I wrapped the boot in newspaper and twisted it with some plyers to free it up, after which the plug pulled out pretty easy. I tore the boot a little by twisting but I think not enough to worry about.

 

[mymmeryloss]

Sent from my Butthole using Fart power!

 

[StilAHondaFreak]

The flywheel bolts are 17mm.
The lower ball-joints will operate with a good smack from a decent sized hammer, but hit the lower control arm, NOT the ball joint, you'll damage the threads on the ball-joint if you hit it.
If you have any more questions, pm me and I'll give you my cellphone number so you can text me, I JUST pulled the engine out of my "new" DX coupe, and I'm an ASE certified former Honda tech, turned full-time stay at home dad, so I'm usually available to help out

Good luck!
Sent from my metro pcs android WITHOUT tapatalk, please excuse any grammatical errors.

 

[Riick]

The flywheel bolts are 17mm.
The lower ball-joints will operate with a good smack from a decent sized hammer, but hit the lower control arm, NOT the ball joint, you'll damage the threads on the ball-joint if you hit it.

Good info; thanks! I actually bought a pitman arm / tie rod puller for small cars that I think will work well. If not I'll try the hammer route.

Questions on axle nut (spindle nut)
1) Is 1 1/4 the right size socket? It seems loose.
2) I heard avoid a torch here because it might damage to the bearings - is this true?
3) What's a good way to get the bendy part of the nut round again? (The nuts on my car don't have a tab for the slot, instead the thin threaded bendy outward facing edge was hammered against the slot. I tried prying it out with a screwdriver but it's still a little off round.)
4) Anyone here had luck with non impact wrench methods? I tried hammering on my 18" breaker bar but stopped because it was starting to warp the nut. I'm thinking of using the screwdriver-in-the-rotor / 4-foot-cheater-bar method; I know some folks who have had success with that. (Yes I know air impact is the "right way" but that requires a compressor, space to store it, and a few hundred dollars to blow, and I don't have any of those things.)

 

[StilAHondaFreak]

PM sent.

Things I didn't notice til now, don't use heat, you WILL damage the bearings and/or axle. The axle nut will round itself out when using the method I described in the PM, good luck.

Sent from my craptastic metro pcs android using Tapatalk2 (I miss my "real" internet

 

[CHILD]

Am I the only one who spins the castle but on the ball joint down to the very bottom of the threads and taps it with a hammer to free the ball joint without tearing the boot or damaging the threads

 

[StilAHondaFreak]

No, I do that sometimes too, but it's risky, depending on the situation.

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[086head]

always used a hammer and pickle fork, seems to be the easiest way once you done it enough

 

[obracer12]

Just smack the knuckle with a hammer and it pops right out.

OP the axle nut is a 34mm socket, use a flat head screw driver to bend the dimple straight again on the nut... OR use an impact gun on the 34mm nut and just zip it off.

never use a torch on suspension and driveline components.ever.

best way to get the nut off the axle is to put your tire back on the car, remove the center cap, put the car on the ground, then try and break teh nut loose. the weight of the car + the e-brake and the traction from the tire should be enough to hold the axle in place and the nut from spinning with the tire.

good luck, it can take a bit of your doing it by hand.

 

[b16lewis]

The ol bfh method works every time for the ball joint.

 

[StilAHondaFreak]

@obracer12, it's a 32mm, not 34. Other than that you're spot on.

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[Riick]

best way to get the nut off the axle is to put your tire back on the car, remove the center cap, put the car on the ground, then try and break teh nut loose. the weight of the car + the e-brake and the traction from the tire should be enough to hold the axle in place and the nut from spinning with the tire.

Yup that did it, along with chocking all the wheels. But I didn't have mess with the center cap because I have a full-sized spare tire which is missing the center cap anyway.
I prevented my socket from falling out by buying a 3" impact extension (1/2 inch drive) and supporting the end of that on my scissors jack. That way neither gravity nor downwards torquing could pull out the socket. A 1-1/4 inch socket seemed to be the best fit. That's just a hair smaller than 32 mm.
I also bought more pipe so that my cheater bar was 4 1/2 feet long.
I estimate that one of the bolts was close to 600 ft-lb. Pretty tight. The other was more like 200 ft-lb.

New problem:
The castle nut on the lower control arm is spinning the ball joint stud. When I turn the nut it the stud turns along with it, so I can't get it off. I tried loading the ball joint by jacking the lower control arm until it was supporting the entire weight of that corner of the car. I attempted to make my t-handle into an impact wrench by banging on the end of it with my 2-lb hammer about 200 times. I tried banging upwards on the socket with one hand while pulling a 3-foot cheater bar with the other. I've also been applying pb blaster periodically over the past three or four days. No luck.
Has anyone here had any luck removing a spinning castle nut without using air tools?

What about a nut splitter; do those work on flanged nuts? Will it fit if one side has only 10mm clearance? (I also suppose I'd have to crank it while lying under the car with my head next to it; not sure that's ultra safe...)