questions on removing engine

[gugiey]

can you get a big pair of vice grips on the ball joint stud and turn the nut while holding the stud .

 

[Riick]

can you get a big pair of vice grips on the ball joint stud and turn the nut while holding the stud .

No- there's not enough stud to hold on to. The end of the stud is nearly flush with the castle part of the nut.

1) Could I disconnect the straight part of the control arm from the subframe so I don't have to remove it from the ball joint? This would involve disconnecting it from the subframe and also from the diagonal part of the A-arm. (One of the two connections to the diagonal is a nut connected to something that's not quite a bolt; not sure if there are surprises there.) Anyone forsee any issues with this?

2) How hard am I supposed to pry on the axle to pop it out of the transmission? On the side without the stuck castle nut I was prying with a 14 inch screwdriver until the scredriver bent. It was a pretty beefy screwdriver too. Is there some triick to this? Does the axle have to be rotated to a certain orientation or something?

 

[StilAHondaFreak]

Did the suggestions we talked about not work it for you?

Unbolting the lca WOULD work, but it'd be really awkward to work with, and the big bolts you're referring to (they're 17s if I remember correctly) would need to be replaced with new ones. They'll be about $20 at the dealer; http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=1994&catcgry3=2DR+DX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=FRONT+LOWER+ARM
You'll need 16, 18, 19 and 20 in the pic. I say $20 because most dealers won't match majestic's prices sure to shipping, convenience, etc.

I used to work at the dealer here in town, so I actually get most stuff for a lil less than majestic

Feel free to call me again if needed, I'll be available til about 3pm.

Good luck, and sorry about ask the trouble, damn snow :banghead: lol

Oh, as far as the axle not popping out, you must be doing something wrong, they don't take a whole lot of force to separate, and they don't need to be in any position, it's just a little clip...

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[StilAHondaFreak]

Tapatalk fail, yet again. What a crappy app :mad: anyway, here's that clip I was talking about...
Nevermind, yet again "ERROR: Missing required parameters" wth it's that all about? :confused::banghead::banghead::confused:
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[Riick]

Did the suggestions we talked about not work it for you?

When I went to do it I realized I didn't understand... It seems that using the puller would press the arm towards the nut and away from the ball joint, so it seemed like it would make it MORE likely to spin. Meanwhile I saw on the internet a lot of talk about jacking the arm up so that it is pushing against the ball joint and away from the nut, so I thought I'd try that.

Unbolting the lca WOULD work, but it'd be really awkward to work with, and the big bolts you're referring to (they're 17s if I remember correctly) would need to be replaced with new ones.

Does sound like a pain; I didn't realize the bolts would need replacing. What about the nut splitter; would that work on a flange nut in a tight spot like this?

Oh, as far as the axle not popping out, you must be doing something wrong, they don't take a whole lot of force to separate, and they don't need to be in any position, it's just a little clip...

Good to know. I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I double checked the service manual, saw a youtube vid of someone doing it... it seems like I'm doing it right. I keep hoping I'll have that ah-ha moment when I figure out what I didn't get, but no luck so far.

(I miss my "real" internet

Yeah, modern technology has drawbacks as well as advantages! I certainly appreaciate your help despite the techno snags.

 

[StilAHondaFreak]

I don't see why the splitter wouldn't work, but I'd plan on replacing the ball joint, even if it doesn't get all jacked up, but, you might get lucky... If nothing else, put some anti-seize on the stud before you put the new castle nut and cotter pin on.

You don't HAVE to replace the lca bolts, but Honda says to for a reason, I believe they are torque to yield. I ordinarily follow their suggestions, not just because I'm a sucker for shiny new parts, but the thought of totaling my car when I could have dropped a few bucks on new bolts doesn't appeal to me lol

Good luck, keep us updated

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[Riick]

Questions:
1) How can I keep the flywheel steady while loosening the bolts? (I need to remove it so I can put it on the new engine.)

2) What asbestos precautions do folks use while working in this area? (No, asbestos was not totally banned in the 1970's and yes, it is still used in some brakes and clutches sold in the U.S. today. No way to know what kind you've got without consulting the manufacturer. I'll probably use the spray bottle and cloth wipe method mentioned in this EPA article but I'd love to hear what other folks have tried.) http://www.epa.gov/asbestos/pubs/brakesbrochure.html

Some updates:
1) Instead of removing the ball joint nut, I took apart the control arm and detached the straight part of it from the subframe. It worked, but when I buy a nut splitter I will have another go at that ball joint nut.

2) One axle was stubborn to remove because the set ring protruded into the transaxle farther than it should have since it was stretched out for some reason. The axle took probably 600 to 800 pounds of pressure to remove, achieved with a 15" flat pry bar operated with my foot.

 

[StilAHondaFreak]

Hey man, I have a simple solution for the flywheel issue

Take one of the tranny to engine bolts, and thread it into the block. Don't torque it down or anything, just snug it up. Then, take one of the A/C mounting bolts, and hold it up to the teeth on the flywheel so that when you start to turn the flywheel bolts, the A/C bolt head hits the tranny to engine bolt. Once it makes contact, you can let go, the force of loosening the flywheel bolts will hold it there.

Go in a criss cross pattern, and remove all the flywheel bolts, remove the tranny to engine bolt, and voila, you just removed your flywheel

Careful, that thing is heavier than it looks

I know those instructions might seem complicated, but once you try it, you'll get it

I'm gonna see if I can find a link to a pic...

Good luck

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[Riick]

Take one of the tranny to engine bolts, and thread it into the block. Don't torque it down or anything, just snug it up. Then, take one of the A/C mounting bolts, and hold it up to the teeth on the flywheel so that when you start to turn the flywheel bolts, the A/C bolt head hits the tranny to engine bolt. Once it makes contact, you can let go, the force of loosening the flywheel bolts will hold it there.

Thanks- I may have to try that. Any chance this will damage the AC mount bolt? Also, I need a way to keep the engine from tipping over as it is already removed from the car. Do you suppose I could take two more tranny bolts and mount a long wooden board onto it?

I read there is a "gear ring holder" tool which keeps the flywheel from spinning, but I don't see it listed on the autozone / pep boys websites. Anyone know if they sell it in those stores? (Maybe it's honda specific?)

Still curious about people's asbestos precautions...

 

[StilAHondaFreak]

I've been doing it this way for years, I've yet to damage the A/C bolt. I don't see any reason why you couldn't bolt a board to it, but, you'd be quicker to just straddle the block, and kind-of diy on the valve cover. Again, once you try it, you'll get it.

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[Riick]

I've been doing it this way for years, I've yet to damage the A/C bolt. I don't see any reason why you couldn't bolt a board to it, but, you'd be quicker to just straddle the block, and kind-of diy on the valve cover.

(Back at it after some weeks off from this project...)
Yup that worked; thanks Freak! I used the long starter bolt instead of the compressor bolt because its bigger flange seemed a better fit in the flywheel teeth. One of the bolts was significantly more stubborn than the others, but none broke. Tools: 12pt 17mm 1/2 drive socket, 1/2" drive 18" breaker + 18" cheater pipe, my butt, and my knee.

 

[StilAHondaFreak]

Good job man! Thanks for the update too, so many people ask questions and then "dissapear" lol kudos to you for updating, and +1 for the tool list, that'll probably help someone in the future... IF they search lol

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[jameswanser]

just thought I'd mention that the gear tooth holder you mentioned (and featured in our manuals) was pretty damned expensive when I checked with a local dealership. they had to look it up, and I think quoted around $80-$100? Was about six months ago, so don't remember the price exactly, just that it was DAMNED expensive for a bolt and curved piece of metal with a couple teeth.

And congrats on the fltywheel removal. First time I tried, used my dad's brand new 12 point Snapon socket and 1/2 impact. Rounded the hell out of that socket! Next time the tool truck came around, was able to get free replacement thankfully. We finally had to use die grinder, cut slots in the bolt heads, and chip off a corner to relieve the pressure.
They musta had King Kong working the assembly line the day they put THAT flywheel together!
Long story short, ya never know just what's gonna happen when you first pull that engine apart

 

[Riick]

the gear tooth holder you mentioned (and featured in our manuals) was pretty damned expensive when I checked with a local dealership. they had to look it up, and I think quoted around $80-$100?

That's a lot, especially given that the bolt that works just as well comes free with the car!

And congrats on the fltywheel removal. First time I tried, used my dad's brand new 12 point Snapon socket and 1/2 impact.

Yeah I heard they can be pretty impossible- I guess I got lucky! (I just wish I could have been as lucky on the engine I bought...)