disconnect the brake lines first (this makes taking the brake shoes out easier) take the brake shoes and all the springs out. then there are 4 14mm bolts behind the spindle u can stick the socket on an extension through the holes to get them out. in red is where the ebrake cable comes through. there is a metal 4 pronged clip that holds the cable in. i suggest pliers and a flat head screwdriver and some patience. once this is loose you can spray some wd-40 in the holes that the plate covers. those are the back side of the 4 torx bolts.
i circled the holes where the 4 t50 torx bolts are the 4th one is behind the strut and in blue is the spindle nut. i used a 15/16ths the get it loose then i needed to get an angle on it a bit because of the strut so i used and an inch socket to get it off the rest of the way. The torx bolts are on extremely tight.
if you end up stripping them out which you probably will get a drill bit that fits in the center of it and start drilling. then work your way up in drill bit sizes. and hopefully you get enough of it drilled out that you can take a chisel and a hammer and get enough force to pop the head of the bolt off. if it doesnt want to give then start with a small bit and work your way up again and try to pop it off again.
then take the 93 teg spindle and fit it to the trailing arm and put the torx bolts back in. followed by the spindle nut. put the rotor on then the caliper and reconnect the brake line and bleed it.
this is what i ended up with. i have the 93 teg ebrake cables but my dad and i havent got there yet. we are going to try to make them work but i am not sure if they will yet. i still also have to swap the master cylinder from the teg on. it makes it feel really soft but the brakes work fine but it will feel like you have to go to the floor to feel like its going to brake. i dont think it is really necessary to swap the master cylinder but it definately isnt a bad idea. if you choose not to you will have to get used to the different feel of the brake pedal.
