removing rear shock without LCA/ stuck bolts

[98ej7HX]

So i'm trying to install my coilovers, and the front went flawlessly, and took about 20 minutes. However, all of the bolts that go into the rear LCAs are stuck, except the ones connecting the shock fork to the lca. I tried using a prybar to pry down the hub assembly as much as possible to see if the shock would come out, but there isn't enough clearnace. I was wondering if i compressed the spring while the assembly was still in the car if that would make it easier for me to just pull the whole thing out? I have pretty much given all hope of being able to disconnect the lca from the subframe (due to stripped bolts from me trying) Or the hub assmebly(not sure what it's called) so I am trying to think of ways to get the shock out. Next step I was thinking would be to heat the shock up with a torch, bend the forks up so that the shock would just slide out to the side..any help or ideas would be appreciated!

 

[mymmeryloss]

Cut the bolts and use an easy out


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[98ej7HX]

I would prefer not to do that though. Is there any way to remove the shock without removing the lca?

 

[DeathLens]

If you can take the shock-to-lca bolt, have someone stand on the trailing arm (hub assembly) to push it down so you can pull the shock out. My friend had the same problem and we had two guys stand on it to pull the shock out.

If you can't do that, cut the welded nut and washer on the trailing arm with a dremel and hammer the rest of it out. I had this problem. After that, buy a new bolt from Honda and nut and washer tighten it manually

 

[CivEX_00]

I maybe looking at this wrong but did you try to unbolt the part that bolts the hub to the body its 2 bolts and should allow you to push it down enough to pop it out at an angle.

 

[CivEX_00]

I guess you would call it the oem Camber arm its to the front of the strut assembly.

 

[98ej7HX]

I did try to unbolt the camber bolt and that's frozen too, although I didn't try that hard, that would be another thing to try. Basically the only bolt that we got out was the shock to lca one. I'll try having my friends stand on it and also unbolting the camber arm.

 

[DeathLens]

Be careful on taking out the camber arm bolts. The welded nuts inside can break. If they do break, you are in deep sh*t.

 

[zachkelly]

When I did mine a month ago, all of the drivers side rear was seized up. And after breaking the bolt your stuck on on the other side, I just went crazy on them with the impact wrench and they came out eventually.

It nearly wore out my cheap electric impact.. but whatever lol.

 

[takeachance]

did you try to take out the bolts when it was jacked up or with the wheels on the ground, with it in the air it can put tourqe on the bolts, i got mine off by using an impact with the tires on the ground no jacks

 

[98ej7HX]

alright i'll give that a shot too. I haven't gotten them out yet still lol...was thinking about just getting new lcas from skunk2 and sawing the bolts off...but we'll see.

 

[mylovehx]

Why not soak the s*** out of all the bolts with pb blaster before attempting any of them in the first place

 

[mymmeryloss]

The way i see it is that if the bolts are siezed in there then why are u going to leave them in there?

Stop taking short cuts and fix what is obviously a problem...


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[xXDeathMaliCeXx]

Ooooorrrrrr be a baller and just cut the OEM shock off. The two brackets that go down over the LCA that make it hard to take off, just cut them off lol

 

[98ej7HX]

I actually tried cutting them, and that stuff must be tempered as hell because I went through 2 sawzall metal cutting blades in about 5 minutes, and it hardly made a mark. What I'm going to do is order a pair of f7 LCAs and just cut ALL the bolts off and replace them. That way this will never be an issue again for me. Does anyone know if aftermarket LCAs bolt right in or do you have to get adjustable endlinks as well? thanks.

 

[StilAHondaFreak]

The way i see it is that if the bolts are siezed in there then why are u going to leave them in there?<br />
<br />
Stop taking short cuts and fix what is obviously a problem...<br />
<br />
<br />
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This. If you take short cuts now, it could screw you later. Would you rather drop a few bucks on 6 new bolts, or have them break later and possibly be stranded?

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[StilAHondaFreak]

I actually tried cutting them, and that stuff must be tempered as hell because I went through 2 sawzall metal cutting blades in about 5 minutes, and it hardly made a mark. What I'm going to do is order a pair of f7 LCAs and just cut ALL the bolts off and replace them. That way this will never be an issue again for me. Does anyone know if aftermarket LCAs bolt right in or do you have to get adjustable endlinks as well? thanks.

Sorry, I didn't see this post prior to making my last one. They should be a direct bolt in swap. Should.

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[98ej7HX]

Alright cool, ordering them right now in that case. If they don't fit I'll get BLOX endlinks they're 50 bucks. Also, if I order OEM bolts, would it be alright to just put a bolt on the end in case i have to cut off the welded nuts? Or is there a way around that. Sorry for asking so many questions, I just want to do it the right way...

 

[StilAHondaFreak]

I couldn't tell you, I've never had issues with these bolts. Sorry.

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[CJ89]

I actually tried cutting them, and that stuff must be tempered as hell because I went through 2 sawzall metal cutting blades in about 5 minutes, and it hardly made a mark. What I'm going to do is order a pair of f7 LCAs and just cut ALL the bolts off and replace them. That way this will never be an issue again for me. Does anyone know if aftermarket LCAs bolt right in or do you have to get adjustable endlinks as well? thanks.

Not tempered lol you must have been using soft blades bc i used my sawzall and cut deathmalice's off when we was putting his coilovers on.

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