Sound System Setup

esoteric781

f**k what ya heard
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
waddup ya'll, just lookin for some pro help here on my audio set up. recently acquired some bits and pieces for my ride. what i got running now is...

Kenwood MP922 CD/MP3/Tuner Deck
MTX 6.5's up front
Pioneer 6x9's in the back
2 MTX 10" Subs in Trunk (custom built box)
3 MTX Thunder 280 AMPS - 1 to each Sub, 1 to Front Speakers

Just picked up...

MB Quart QM218.61Q 6.5 Component System w/crossovers
Rockford Fosgate 600.5 AMP (5 channel)
AudioControl Three.1 Equalizer

Wondering what would be the best set up, with the assload of amps that I now have, and if possible to place MTX 6.5's elsewhere. Not too good with the speaker knowledge, IE...ohm's and impedence and running speakers in parallel, so lookin for a little explanation as well as opinion on how to set this focker up.
 

kbog

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
I can help you, but I am unclear as to what exactly you wish to run in your vehicle. I have wiring diagrams and impedence explainations and all that though.

I guess it would be easier if you had specific questions.
 


91b18hatch

New Member
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
the lower the ohms, the more powerful the watts are pretty much
 

kbog

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Originally posted by 91b18hatch
the lower the ohms, the more powerful the watts are pretty much
I think I know what you mean, but a watt is a watt. There are not more powerful ones out there.

In general, as you lower the impedence that an amp is running at, the amp will deliver more power (watts). There are consequences though. The amp will run hotter and total harmonic distortion (THD) will increase.
 


esoteric781

f**k what ya heard
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
all I am really lookin for is a good way to hook up the amps and the speakers. which to run to which for the best and maximum sound quality. i know the rockford amp is pretty strong, but should I run all the speakers off of that alone, or should I use the seperate MTX amps to power the speakers and the rockford amp to power the subs? Just looking for someone who has some good knowledge about these things, and their opinion on which would be the best set up with all the amps and speakers. I know the kenwood deck that I have has an internal amp and for right now, that is running my rear speakers while one of the MTX amps is running my fronts.
 

Sound Streamin'

Boost or Die
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Are they DVC subs? I like to keep the set up nice and simple personally. If they are DVC subs, I'd just get a single mono amp to power them, then get a multi channel amp to power everythign else. I kept my set up nice and clean, one amp for subs, one amp for everything else.
 

Sound Streamin'

Boost or Die
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
In your case, based on what I said before, i'd use the 5 channel amp to power all of your front speakers (those mb quart componants are kick ass by the way), and stick with the 2 280's running the subs. You can sell the third 280 most likely.
 

esoteric781

f**k what ya heard
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
aight, sounds good to me, also lookin to get maybe one high quality 12" instead of the 2 10", not only would it take up less space, but there ain't much bump in the subs I got goin now, dunno the exact model number of these 2 10" MTX's, but they're about 2 years old, all black and just say MTX on the speaker itself. Any suggestions on a really nice 12" for a reasonable price?
 

kbog

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Originally posted by esoteric781
all I am really lookin for is a good way to hook up the amps and the speakers. which to run to which for the best and maximum sound quality. i know the rockford amp is pretty strong, but should I run all the speakers off of that alone, or should I use the seperate MTX amps to power the speakers and the rockford amp to power the subs? Just looking for someone who has some good knowledge about these things, and their opinion on which would be the best set up with all the amps and speakers. I know the kenwood deck that I have has an internal amp and for right now, that is running my rear speakers while one of the MTX amps is running my fronts.
Ok. Well I think what I would do is more drastic because you seem open to the idea of selling older stuff and getting a hold of newer stuff. I'm going to assume though that you are not made of money so I will try to stay reasonable.

I would sell everything that has MTX written on it. I have nothing against MTX, but the amps you have are not much in the way of power any longer and the subs aren't cutting the mustard for you. Fine.

The deck is great. I would continue running the rears off the head unit. No need to amp the rears because rear fill doesn't require much power. Sound should come from in front in a stereo system (since this isn't theatre) and so the front stage need to have major auhority. So keep the 6x9's you have in the back.

Install the Quarts up front and lose the MTXs. The component system should sound better and offer a better sound stage (if installed right). Give them 75 watts or so minimum (100 would be better)so they can really strut their stuff. Recommended is 90 so the speakers will have no problem.

Now you want a kick ass 12" so here is a name you have likely not heard before:

Look into the Elemental designs A series.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/ep2/12a.htm

These are subs that have a very distictive look and will keep up with the JL W7, Image Dynamics Max and MTX 9500. Very nice indeed. They only come with a 2 ohms DVC so you have to wire a single sub in parallel for a 1 ohm final load or series for a 4 ohm final load. It will want 700 watts though so we are now talking big power.

So last we have an amp issue. There are numerous solutions. The one by Sound Streamin was good about the 5 channel amp. Thing is most 5 channel amps really don't run subs too well (exception would be a Memphis belle) and my sub selection needs power. Also, I am not a fan of amping rears so again a 5 channel would be wasteful to me (still a good idea sound streamin!). That's just me.

Next option is a powerful 4 channel amp. Channels 1 and 2 would run the comp set up front and channels 3 and 4 would be bridged to a sub. Now we are getting PLENTY of power up front, but the sub can still only moderate power. An amp like this would work:

http://www.millionbuy.com/souega4220.html

What a bargain for that amount of power. Still, you would only give 440 watts to a sub. Doable, but I would put the sub in a ported enclosure to milk it for all it has.

Last option is a 2 amp system. This gives you TONS of flex now. Drive the fronts with plenty of power with this amp:

http://www.millionbuy.com/souega2220.html

Then crush the sub with this one:

http://www.millionbuy.com/souega2440.html

Now you have some German engineering screaming in the front and some american engineering getting almost 900 watts in the rear. This would really rip it up.

Now there are plenty of other amps and subs out there that will do it for you, but these amp/sub combos will work with wiring schemes that are relatively easy.

Power wire and distribution is a whole new beast as I have no idea the size wire currently in your vehicle.
 

98hatchfreak

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Originally posted by kbog
Ok. Well I think what I would do is more drastic because you seem open to the idea of selling older stuff and getting a hold of newer stuff. I'm going to assume though that you are not made of money so I will try to stay reasonable.

I would sell everything that has MTX written on it. I have nothing against MTX, but the amps you have are not much in the way of power any longer and the subs aren't cutting the mustard for you. Fine.

The deck is great. I would continue running the rears off the head unit. No need to amp the rears because rear fill doesn't require much power. Sound should come from in front in a stereo system (since this isn't theatre) and so the front stage need to have major auhority. So keep the 6x9's you have in the back.

Install the Quarts up front and lose the MTXs. The component system should sound better and offer a better sound stage (if installed right). Give them 75 watts or so minimum (100 would be better)so they can really strut their stuff. Recommended is 90 so the speakers will have no problem.

Now you want a kick ass 12" so here is a name you have likely not heard before:

Look into the Elemental designs A series.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/ep2/12a.htm

These are subs that have a very distictive look and will keep up with the JL W7, Image Dynamics Max and MTX 9500. Very nice indeed. They only come with a 2 ohms DVC so you have to wire a single sub in parallel for a 1 ohm final load or series for a 4 ohm final load. It will want 700 watts though so we are now talking big power.

So last we have an amp issue. There are numerous solutions. The one by Sound Streamin was good about the 5 channel amp. Thing is most 5 channel amps really don't run subs too well (exception would be a Memphis belle) and my sub selection needs power. Also, I am not a fan of amping rears so again a 5 channel would be wasteful to me (still a good idea sound streamin!). That's just me.



http://www.millionbuy.com/souega4220.html

What a bargain for that amount of power. Still, you would only give 440 watts to a sub. Doable, but I would put the sub in a ported enclosure to milk it for all it has.

Last option is a 2 amp system. This gives you TONS of flex now. Drive the fronts with plenty of power with this amp:

http://www.millionbuy.com/souega2220.html

Then crush the sub with this one:

http://www.millionbuy.com/souega2440.html

Now you have some German engineering screaming in the front and some american engineering getting almost 900 watts in the rear. This would really rip it up.

Now there are plenty of other amps and subs out there that will do it for you, but these amp/sub combos will work with wiring schemes that are relatively easy.

Power wire and distribution is a whole new beast as I have no idea the size wire currently in your vehicle.
Next option is a powerful 4 channel amp. Channels 1 and 2 would run the comp set up front and channels 3 and 4 would be bridged to a sub. Now we are getting PLENTY of power up front, but the sub can still only moderate power. An amp like this would work:

Ok, I just wanted to make one comment about what kbog has said.... first off, great info and I never would have taken the time to write all of that down... secondly, it is not healthy to run mids &highs off two channels and then bridge the other two to a sub, it creates an uneven ohm load on the amp the amp and it will not run as effeciently or effectivly as it could if it simply had the same watts going to the same ohm load... other than that.... kick ass postt!
 

kbog

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Originally posted by 98hatchfreak
Next option is a powerful 4 channel amp. Channels 1 and 2 would run the comp set up front and channels 3 and 4 would be bridged to a sub. Now we are getting PLENTY of power up front, but the sub can still only moderate power. An amp like this would work:

Ok, I just wanted to make one comment about what kbog has said.... first off, great info and I never would have taken the time to write all of that down... secondly, it is not healthy to run mids &highs off two channels and then bridge the other two to a sub, it creates an uneven ohm load on the amp the amp and it will not run as effeciently or effectivly as it could if it simply had the same watts going to the same ohm load... other than that.... kick ass postt!
Thank you sir. I have heard that also and have looked into it. I can't seem to find any data on that though. In fact, most four channel amps have a 3 channel mode AND have manuals showing this configuration. I download a bunch of random 4 channel amp manuals about 2 months ago to see if they said this was unhealthy. In fact, ALL of the manuals (4) suggested the configuration as an option. I used an amp in 3 channle mode for years with no ill effects. I too have heard this though so I totally know where you are coming from here. I just can't substantiate it.:what:
 

98hatchfreak

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
I understand what you are saying completely and I am not trying to get an in argument... I have just personally tested quite a few amps and discovered, through my own experience, that the amp will not run as effeciently, put out as much watts as it could and could run a litlle warmer... have you actually tested any of your amps to see if the watts have decreased from running them in this mode? Again, I don't wanna get into an argument... just a civilized discussion.
 

kbog

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Originally posted by 98hatchfreak
I understand what you are saying completely and I am not trying to get an in argument... I have just personally tested quite a few amps and discovered, through my own experience, that the amp will not run as effeciently, put out as much watts as it could and could run a litlle warmer... have you actually tested any of your amps to see if the watts have decreased from running them in this mode? Again, I don't wanna get into an argument... just a civilized discussion.
Oh jeesh, I didn't think you were being argumentative at all. I'm glad you brought it up! I hope I didn't come off as argumentative.:oops:

I have NOT tested any of the amps that I have run 3 channel. I have simply been happy with the performance. The 2 that come to mind are an older Alpine V12 series and an older Sony (yes, sony!).

I'm curious about how you tested your amplifiers power?
 

98hatchfreak

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
ok... don't knock Sony! I have a mono amp pushin my subs and it is very clean and powerful! Well, it wasn't very hard to test them... well, actually it is. My friend owns a car audio shop and he has some kind of gadget (that he got from who knows where!) and you just put the speaker wires that are hooked to the amp into the thing and it gives you a true readout of the actual watts... it's really kinda nifty and it helps my friends and I determine if an amp is true and worth buying!
 

kbog

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
I understand. I don't have access to bench test my amps and I am unaware of the ability to test power directly with a DMM. I figured you had an in somehow!

For the record I have NEVER worked with a Sony product that didn't perform flawlessly. Still, I know the rep it has established in the last 4 yers or so.
 

98hatchfreak

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
I will agree with the rep Sony has recieved in the past few years, but I think the better question is are there products still up to par? If the products remain the quality that they are, then the price will drop like a rock and ALL my amps will soon be Sony! Lol! What kind of setup do you have in your ride, what is your ride, and do you have any pics? My signature has a link to the pics of my system...
 

kbog

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Originally posted by 98hatchfreak
I will agree with the rep Sony has recieved in the past few years, but I think the better question is are there products still up to par? If the products remain the quality that they are, then the price will drop like a rock and ALL my amps will soon be Sony! Lol! What kind of setup do you have in your ride, what is your ride, and do you have any pics? My signature has a link to the pics of my system...
Well my ride is a long story. I'll shorten it though:
-drove a beautiful RSX-S; finance had a 97 civic sedan
-got married
-had a kid
-neither car is a good family car, but we could only afford one "nice" car
-traded my Acura in for a 2004 Escape
-I drive the civic now (I took a hit, but I think that my sacrifice will pay off when our next new car comes to light!)

My Acura had an Elemental Designs e12k sub and a JBL 600.1 monoblock running it. I was reluctant to make major mods to the BOSE system.

I JUST installed a new head (Blaupunkt Casablanca) into the civic and will continue the sytem over the next year. I bought the Blau from Ikesound for $95 and the original price was over $400. What a steal. It is still for sale at Ikesound too because it is last years cosmetics.

The unit is great. It is NOT super high end (non motorized face and no MP3), but has wonderful sound shaping features for that money. It looks great too.

I have no pictures, but if you are really interested, I would be happy to snap a few for you. IMO there is not a better deal out there for a great sounding CD unit. $95 is simply rediculous!
 

98hatchfreak

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
pics would be good and did you look @ my setup on my websaite at the bottom of my avatar... it's pretty clean and very clear... the tweeters scream!
 

kbog

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
I took a look. Very nice install. I'm interested in the door fabrication that you had to do to get the Kickers in there. I am doing a door install soon in my civic and am deciding on kicks, slim speakers or a door fabrication.

I will take some pics for you on Sunday. The blau looks pretty nice. Right now, my wife and I are off to see my folks through Sat.
 


Top