Starting to think about rotors

[joe7987]

Well, I have that characteristic wheel shake when applying the brakes. I'm starting to consider replacing my rotors. Is there anything specific I should watch out for, in terms of brand name? I'm not looking to break the bank, but I wouldn't mind something a LITTLE flashier than stock - maybe some bronze rotors, or drilled/slotted. I haven't done anything beyond maintenance to my car in a long time and it couldn't hurt to take advantage of this opportunity. Any advice? Any brands I should look out for? I did some preliminary reading and saw that some people recommend against drilled / slotted rotors (increased possibility of cracking, decreased stopping power, etc). Are these cons things that I should really be concerned about, or are they rare occurrences / minimal effect?

I'm also planning to do my pads at the same time. Same question there, though I don't need anything special for the pads. Am I fine with your basic autozone / discount auto parts pads, or is there something cheaper with similar quality?

I read a DIY and the whole procedure looks fairly simple. There may be some tight bolts, but it doesn't look too terrible. Anything in the procedure worth knowing that might deter me from doing this myself?

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

If you haven't ever had your rotors turned I'm sure there is enough left on them to do so. A full rotor has more surface area, meaning more metal for the pad to grab which equals better braking.

I've used Raybestos products and I have zero complaints, also used HAWK pads on Hondas and other vehicles. On a mainly stock braking system there won't be much difference in braking.

 

[joe7987]

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to take a look into doing that. I didn't know I could just have my rotor turned.

 

[lethal6]

They will let you know if there is enough meat on them to be worth turning. Be sure to get new pads as well.

Personally I run Zimmerman, but that could be a german thing. I would have to look and see if they have anything for your car, then again they are pretty pricey.

Stoptech is a decent brand as is Brembo obviously.

For pads, hands down PBR if you can get them. Next up would be Akebono, Textar, ATE, Hawk (in no specific order). Some more expensive than others but none really break the bank.

 

[joe7987]

Thanks man. Good advice.

I'm planning on doing this myself. I may take them off and bring them in to be "turned," or I may just avoid the hassle of bringing them in and spend a little extra money for replacements. I've had these on my car for almost 11 years. I can probably get one new set of rotors and be good for the remaining lifetime of the car. I plan on getting pads at the same time - might as well do them while I'm down there, and they also haven't ever been replaced.

 

[Wreckless Hype]

You've had the same rotors on your car for 11 years? Wtf? I didn't know that was possible...

As far as the drilled / slotted argument - I'd prefer slotted if you want something better than blanks. Slotted will cool better, therefore help with braking a bit, but will absolutely chew your pads faster than you're used to.

I've used cross drilled and slotted rotrors, even by Brembo, and I've had 2 rotors crack on drill points. I tend to steer clear of drilled rotors now, but that's me.

I've used EBC pads and Hawk, I like Hawk a lot.

I've never "turned" or resurfaced rotors, I really didn't consider it as an option, but I was / am ill-informed on the matter so I always just replaced the rotors.

 

[ShinsenTuner]

I have Centric rotors from Rockauto on all of my cars... never had a problem with them. They were cheap too.

As for pads I'm running Akebono Ceramics on my daily. It has low brake dust and isn't too expensive compared to other pads of similar quality. I'd say if it isn't a track/race car then don't waste money on 'race pads' or anything like that, just keep it simple.

I had drilled/slotted rotors on my project car only because the previous owner had them installed. I didn't notice anything different really. However, this weekend I will be bolting up a 280mm Mini cooper rotor, ITR calipers, and ITR pads and I'm sure THAT will make a huge difference

 

[joe7987]

Perhaps I'll steer clear of the drilled / slotted rotors. They look nice, but I hate losing practicality (replacing pads more often). Yea, I've had no problem on the stock rotors, or anything else related with the brakes. It's all been smoother. Now I'm noticing the shaking when braking at higher speeds, and it's time.

Good input, prez. I'll keep those brand in mind too. At least now I know a few different reputable brands to research and choose between. I appreciate the help.

 

[lowlife9]

i still have the stock rotors on my 04 there still good. but be careful with brembo there are a s*** ton of knock offs on the market. i personally would get stop tech there well built and cheap which is a hard attribute to find these days. as far as slotted drilled rotors go there not a good option they have less surface area to grab the pads which means reduced stopping force there basicallyfor looks on daily drivers. even most race cars use blanks for this reason.

 

[JohnS.]

I've been using Advanced Auto rotors and pads on my car for the past 5+ years and I've never had an issue. The only thing with the pads is you have to grind down each tab a little for them to fit into the caliper mounting bracket. I actually haven't serviced my brakes in like 2/3 years. According to my maintenance log, I don't have anything written in the past 5 years...unless I either missed writing something or they've just lasted THAT long.

You can't go wrong with Brembo blanks. Last I checked (last year probably), they're like $30-$40 per front from importrp.com. I've heard great things about Hawk and Akebono. Like I said though, the lifetime warranty on the more expensive Advanced Auto pads are hard to beat (pretty sure they still have it), especially if you're not autocrossing or going crazy.

 

[joe7987]

Thanks guys. Great info.

 

[lowlife9]

i here brembo has declined in the reliability department in the past years out sourcing there entry level parts but i could be mistaken ???

 

[joe7987]

Just ordered some stoptech blanks and hawk ceramic pads from Tunersports. I'm going to try to do this within the next few weeks. Thanks again for all of the help!

 

[Wreckless Hype]

Excellent! Let us know how you like the setup. Good luck!

 

[lethal6]

Just ordered some stoptech blanks and hawk ceramic pads from Tunersports. I'm going to try to do this within the next few weeks. Thanks again for all of the help!

What the hell is tunersports?




























































Kidding. Congrats. Both are excellent brands.

 

[lowlife9]

don't forget to bed those bitches.

 

[joe7987]

Thanks! Also, thanks for the reminder on bedding. This completely slipped my mind. I found these instructions for the hawk pads:

"After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete."

I guess I'll just try to drive on the road, then pull into parking lots repeatedly. I don't really know how else to be able to make those continuous stops. There's nothing abandoned around here.

Parts are set to arrive tomorrow, so hopefully I'll get to it this weekend.

 

[joe7987]

Starting working on these and had a hell of a time.

When I had my tires installed, they over torqued the lug nuts on one of them. Jumping on the damn tire iron wouldn't give me enough force to break them loose. Finally went to home depot and grabbed a long hollow steel rod. I now officially own a breaker bar. Anyway, that made short work of those damned lug nuts.

Thought I was in the clear, but went to take off the two screws on the rotor. Started turning the screwdriver and the screws basically crumbled from the rust / corrosion. Stripped in seconds. Swore a few times, then went to the local hardware store and grabbed some screw extractor bits. Came home only to realize that I need a regular drill bit too. I have a drill that I borrowed, but I don't have a drillbit for it. Store was closed by then and my girlfriend really didn't feel like hauling me around anymore.

Thus, today I have failed. Tomorrow I'll head back out and try to get a drill bit so I can extract these screws and try again.

 

[lethal6]

I absolutely haaaattttteeeee those stupid screws. They are only there to hold the rotors on so they don't fall off on the production line and make it hell to the next person in the future that works on the car. An impact screw driver works wonders for those little bastards. It's a screwdriver that has a blunt end on the handle and turns ever so slightly but with a little torque when hit with a hammer.

 

[Wreckless Hype]

I've only seen them on Hondas, they're so stupid. My WRX had holes there but no place for the screw to sit in the hub. Their screw holes are for popping the rotors off. Much better idea if you ask me.

I had to practically hammer a small 1/4" phillips bit in the screw and use a small socket to take them out. Worked for me. Screws went directly into the trash.