CivicDaily
New Member
I have a 1992 Civic LX sedan, D15B7 M/T. 160XXX miles, had been running good besides some normal minor hiccups (had to re-solder the main/fuel relay, replaced radiator). Went to start it the other day, started up for a second then shut down. Cranks all day but does not run. Here is what I have done since then, and what ultimately my questions are:
At this point, the check engine light came on, then off after a couple seconds, so I didn't think I had an engine code.
Fuses, I ran through both fuses boxes multiple times.
Checked main relay, works fine, fuel pump primes and makes wurring noise while cranking
I removed and cleaned all grounds in the engine bay, checked resistances to battery, all less than .02 ohms
I checked at each fuel injector for power while cranking and each cylinder had proper power
Checked distributor cap/rotor, both showed minor wear and replaced just because
Checked the spark plug wires all tested resistances well within the range
Checked spark plugs, worn down but no indications of issues inside the motor, replaced
While in the Distributor I tested the ICM and coil which tested as they should, but I notice a couple things, the distributor cap did not have the gasket(it does now), possibly somewhat exposing the internals, on top of this, the white/blue wire to the ICM, while working, had cracked insulation (possibly from the lack of gasket and an idea of the condition of the rest of the inside of the distributor.
At this point a friend steered me to testing the TDC, CKP and CYP sensors, I researched and found that all three are inside the distributor. I pulled the plug and tested the resistances, all should apparently test between 350-700 Ohms. All three tested between 340-345 Ohms. Out of the range, a range that is already pretty large so I assume even a little bit out of the range could cause a no start situation. I read that if any of these sensors goes out they will cause a CEL.
Because I thought I didn't have one originally I decided to jumper the plug and make sure, CEL stayed on solid, took me a while to realize there was a code 0, bad ECU.
My car came with an extra ECU in the trunk, and no explanation. I took them both to my shop and opened them up. The trunk ECU had the typical burnout at the larger capacitor that I have seen online, the one from my car, looked pristine, small rusty looking corrosion but I hit the board with electronics wash and it looks brand new. I returned it to the car and still have same circumstances.
I found what someone called the "K-Test", check for 5V at the Map sensor, this tested fine, indication of a good ECU. (Also, because my capacitor isn't burnt, I don't think this voltage test is relevant)
FINALLY MY QUESTIONS:
Is the code and K test results justification that my ECU isn't bad?
Are the sensor readings justification to replace the distributor??
Is there a chance the sensor codes are there but because of the ECU code I can't see them( I.E. bad ECU and sensors)??
Obviously my distributor will need replacing soon with the cracked wires inside and poor resistance tests, but I am just curious if I can get out of buying both right now. Thanks for any input.
At this point, the check engine light came on, then off after a couple seconds, so I didn't think I had an engine code.
Fuses, I ran through both fuses boxes multiple times.
Checked main relay, works fine, fuel pump primes and makes wurring noise while cranking
I removed and cleaned all grounds in the engine bay, checked resistances to battery, all less than .02 ohms
I checked at each fuel injector for power while cranking and each cylinder had proper power
Checked distributor cap/rotor, both showed minor wear and replaced just because
Checked the spark plug wires all tested resistances well within the range
Checked spark plugs, worn down but no indications of issues inside the motor, replaced
While in the Distributor I tested the ICM and coil which tested as they should, but I notice a couple things, the distributor cap did not have the gasket(it does now), possibly somewhat exposing the internals, on top of this, the white/blue wire to the ICM, while working, had cracked insulation (possibly from the lack of gasket and an idea of the condition of the rest of the inside of the distributor.
At this point a friend steered me to testing the TDC, CKP and CYP sensors, I researched and found that all three are inside the distributor. I pulled the plug and tested the resistances, all should apparently test between 350-700 Ohms. All three tested between 340-345 Ohms. Out of the range, a range that is already pretty large so I assume even a little bit out of the range could cause a no start situation. I read that if any of these sensors goes out they will cause a CEL.
Because I thought I didn't have one originally I decided to jumper the plug and make sure, CEL stayed on solid, took me a while to realize there was a code 0, bad ECU.
My car came with an extra ECU in the trunk, and no explanation. I took them both to my shop and opened them up. The trunk ECU had the typical burnout at the larger capacitor that I have seen online, the one from my car, looked pristine, small rusty looking corrosion but I hit the board with electronics wash and it looks brand new. I returned it to the car and still have same circumstances.
I found what someone called the "K-Test", check for 5V at the Map sensor, this tested fine, indication of a good ECU. (Also, because my capacitor isn't burnt, I don't think this voltage test is relevant)
FINALLY MY QUESTIONS:
Is the code and K test results justification that my ECU isn't bad?
Are the sensor readings justification to replace the distributor??
Is there a chance the sensor codes are there but because of the ECU code I can't see them( I.E. bad ECU and sensors)??
Obviously my distributor will need replacing soon with the cracked wires inside and poor resistance tests, but I am just curious if I can get out of buying both right now. Thanks for any input.