The "Tegro" Type R

JDMBuilderB20B

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So, my DA9 Integra has recently been deemed too much work chassis wise for a clean build and Daily Driver. My plan is to pull the JDM B20B with around 90k miles on it and put it on an engine stand for a B20B with the B16B Type R VTEC head a.k.a. the "Tegro Type R" (My DA's name was "Tegro" I love that car a lot and am sad to have to get rid of him, but the time has come.) and put it into an EG coupe. I plan to use a GSR or B16 transmission and a P30 ECU. My power goal will be around 270whp so I can take this thing to the cruise downtown and walk on some ricers. I was thinking forged internals, built head, oil pressure sensor, true cold air, full exhaust, ect. This car is going to be a tribute to my DA. I would like to know any tip, pointers, advice, and suggestions on any parts to use to achieve my goal. I'm open to anything. Please no s**t talking telling me I'm a retard. I know what I'm doing, I used to work at a performance Honda shop, I just wanted to see what yall thought and have to say. I will make this my main build thread and post pics as I go along if I remember. Go.
 

jameswanser

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Welcome to the forum. As far as the engine build goes, it sounds good. CRV-tecs are pretty common as you know, so not a lot of comment there. 1st part to buy? The car. Do you already have a shell lined up? If not, are you looking for a hatch, sedan, or coupe?
A sedan with a stealthy b swap is less likely to get stolen than a hatch any day, so I think you can see where MY advise it leaning.
 


JDMBuilderB20B

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Welcome to the forum. As far as the engine build goes, it sounds good. CRV-tecs are pretty common as you know, so not a lot of comment there. 1st part to buy? The car. Do you already have a shell lined up? If not, are you looking for a hatch, sedan, or coupe?
A sedan with a stealthy b swap is less likely to get stolen than a hatch any day, so I think you can see where MY advise it leaning.
Yeah that's true, but I was thinking of a coupe. I like the look better.
 

jameswanser

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I'm partial to sedans myself, but I'd just stay away from the hatch. Brother had his stolen twice within 1 year, and the damned thing was stock. No crazy exhaust, no nice wheels, nothing. After the second time, police found it a week later, pretty much stripped. He just left it at the impound and walked away
 


HeX

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Damn, what about them is so easy to break into?
Its more that the hatchbacks are very desirable so they're big theft targets. But being that you want the less commonly desired coupe, you have less to worry about. Clean Civics are very commonly stolen vehicles in general due to their popularity. You should consider investing in a solid 2-way alarm early on if you plan to put that much money and effort into it. All it takes is you showing off its performance in front of the wrong person to make someone want to strip it.
 

JDMBuilderB20B

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Its more that the hatchbacks are very desirable so they're big theft targets. But being that you want the less commonly desired coupe, you have less to worry about. Clean Civics are very commonly stolen vehicles in general due to their popularity. You should consider investing in a solid 2-way alarm early on if you plan to put that much money and effort into it. All it takes is you showing off its performance in front of the wrong person to make someone want to strip it.
That's something I never thought of. That's a really good tip. Thank you sir. So what tranny would you recommend? GSR or B16? This will be a strick NA build
 

HeX

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So what tranny would you recommend? GSR or B16? This will be a strick NA build
Truth be told, I don't know enough about either to make a suggestion. I just commented on what I know.
 

CHILD

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I would use a B16 transmission with an aftermarket LSD installed. It's the faster geared trans out of those two. Why would you want a slower transmission for acceleration with a N/A build? I know some people complain about a B16 transmission 5th gear rpms on the highway....but for whatever reason, they don't consider that a bone stock EM1 does just fine on the highway with good gas mileage with normal driving.

How much compression and what cams are you planning with this build? From working at a performance Honda shop, I'd think you'd have this entire build all laid out already.
 

bairdandrew77

New Member
Either would be fine, but the b16 trans has shorter gearing. Maybe not enough to make a very noticeable difference but there you go. Also, try getting one with an lsd or plan on installing a good aftermarket one. That much power on a FWD car and an open diff and you're looking at a lot of wheel spin

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JDMBuilderB20B

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I would use a B16 transmission with an aftermarket LSD installed. It's the faster geared trans out of those two. Why would you want a slower transmission for acceleration with a N/A build? I know some people complain about a B16 transmission 5th gear rpms on the highway....but for whatever reason, they don't consider that a bone stock EM1 does just fine on the highway with good gas mileage with normal driving.

How much compression and what cams are you planning with this build? From working at a performance Honda shop, I'd think you'd have this entire build all laid out already.
I was thinking around 10.8-11:1 CR. The cams I was thinking skunk2 or Brian Crower, but the staging depends on what stage would hit my horse power range. I know the tune is most of what matters. Also, p28 or P30?
 

JDMBuilderB20B

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Well, it's hard to find one with a nice body in my area, and I'd also want a completely stock one. Which is what happened with the my first DA. I want to get one a little later on
 

CHILD

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I was thinking around 10.8-11:1 CR. The cams I was thinking skunk2 or Brian Crower, but the staging depends on what stage would hit my horse power range. I know the tune is most of what matters. Also, p28 or P30?
Kind of a low compression setup with that b20vtec that you're planning to reach 270 with. You're going to need a really big cam setup for that kind of power. No tune will pull out massive power with a small set of cams in that engine.

And you can use either ECU. They both will need to be chipped, so either one can be setup to work with your engine just fine.
 

JDMBuilderB20B

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What compression would you recommend?

Also does anyone have a recommendation on the kind of parts I should use. My internals are the only thing I'm 100 on
 
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xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

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The PNW has probably the highest concentration of DAs on the planet, I miss my DA and it's probably the only Honda I would ever buy again.

What specific parts are you referring to?

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xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

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Look through the forums (not just this one) at some high hp NA builds, that will give you some more idea of what you are trying to tackle.

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xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

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The only thing different between those two is the bore and the slightly different compression. 81mms vs 84mms. USDM B20b and B18b are 99% the same. Intake manifold is different but you'll be changing all that stuff anyway.

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