Valve springs

[lonewolf]

As some of you may know, I've had a lot of trouble with my B16 swap recently. The problem was caused by a poor port and polish job resulting in a huge loss of power. The place that did the work have a new mechanic now and they are fixing all the problems, including replacing the head.

While the head is off and stripped down to be sent away for a proper pnp, now is the time to sort out the valve train. In the future i'm looking at fitting Skunk2 stage 1 cams (or Toda, Crower, Buddy,Jun or similar)

1) I have been offered the Jun springs at a discount rate (£200), but they have a two week lead time (meaning a further two weeks without my car), or Skunk2 at a higher price (£260), 1-3 working days delivery. Which sould I go for?/Which would be the best option?

I do not plan on upping the rev limiter - Do I need to sort out new valves, retainers and guides with a street cam or will springs be enough? Going NA on this motor (keeping in true Honda spirit)


Thanks for the help!

 

[Blazed]

jun>skunk

 

[exospeedracing]

Choosing the proper valvetrain is not as simple as just picking a brand. What many people do not realize is that each valve spring has their own spring rates that match the type of cam and use of the motor.
The spring rates determine how strong and how much lift or boost pressure the valve springs can handle.

If you have a weak spring and are using a hight lift cam or on high boost, there is a high possibility of valve float. Valve float is when the valves do not return in its normal position in time during the cycle of the engine and causes the valves to hit the pistons.

As engine builders, we have to build EACH engine according to the use of the motor. When you want a turbo motor boosting 10-20psi vs 20+ psi, the valve springs we use are totally different. You also dont want something TOO strong so it wont be OVERKILL for the motor. Having a too strong spring can also cause damage to the motor.

From our experience, the Skunk2 springs have been designed for the BASIC all motor setups. I do not know the spring rates, but I would not trust it for turbo or high lift all motor applications. JUN valvetrain have always known to be TOO strong and is specifically designed to go with their OWN performance cams.

To be safe, what we use are SUPERTECH Valvetrains. You would never see SKunk2 springs on any race setups. Its just not built for optimum performance. Supertech is a better choice since they offer like 5 different spring rates from street all motor to street turbo to full race all motor and turbo applications.

I hope I have not given too much information. I just want you guys to look at it in a more informed perspective when choosing the right parts for your car.

 

[quicksilver1689]

Like exo is saying building a motor isnt as simple as throwing together a bunch name brand parts. Sure there name brand and good quality but everything has different tolerances.

 

[slowhatch]

Choosing the proper valvetrain is not as simple as just picking a brand. What many people do not realize is that each valve spring has their own spring rates that match the type of cam and use of the motor.
The spring rates determine how strong and how much lift or boost pressure the valve springs can handle.

If you have a weak spring and are using a hight lift cam or on high boost, there is a high possibility of valve float. Valve float is when the valves do not return in its normal position in time during the cycle of the engine and causes the valves to hit the pistons.

As engine builders, we have to build EACH engine according to the use of the motor. When you want a turbo motor boosting 10-20psi vs 20+ psi, the valve springs we use are totally different. You also dont want something TOO strong so it wont be OVERKILL for the motor. Having a too strong spring can also cause damage to the motor.

From our experience, the Skunk2 springs have been designed for the BASIC all motor setups. I do not know the spring rates, but I would not trust it for turbo or high lift all motor applications. JUN valvetrain have always known to be TOO strong and is specifically designed to go with their OWN performance cams.

To be safe, what we use are SUPERTECH Valvetrains. You would never see SKunk2 springs on any race setups. Its just not built for optimum performance. Supertech is a better choice since they offer like 5 different spring rates from street all motor to street turbo to full race all motor and turbo applications.

I hope I have not given too much information. I just want you guys to look at it in a more informed perspective when choosing the right parts for your car.

what would be a good spring rate to go with for a turbocharged 10-20psi engine?

 

[lonewolf]

Thanks everyone.

Reading exo's post, I seems clear to me that I have a lot more learning to do, and if I chose the wrong compoments then it is easy for it to go grapefruit quickly.

I am only looking at a slightly more aggressive set, it must still be able to be used as a reliable daily driver which is why I was looking at skunk stage 1 cams with skunk springs. I hear they are similar to ITR cams - which are another option. I gather it would be best to keep springs and cams to the same manufacturer (skunk with skunk, jun to jun etc..) or to get supertech like exo suggested.


What factors should I be looking at to pick a set of cams? just lift and duration, and on the springs the seat and open pressure and the maximum lift? Is there anything else?

What does 72lbs@1.300" refer to? 72lbs being the seat pressure.


Thanks for your help.

Tim

 

[Exospeed*com]

hold on guys. kind busy today at the office. I'll post some more detailed info on B-series Valvetrain choices later today. to show comparison on what we use for what setup.

 

[lonewolf]

hold on guys. kind busy today at the office. I'll post some more detailed info on B-series Valvetrain choices later today. to show comparison on what we use for what setup.

That would be fantastic! Thanks mate!