what harness do i have??!!

peeweezy

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what harness do i have??!! P1509???!!!

ok so i bought my EX recently (about 2 weeks ago) and i find out soon after that its an EX body with a D16Y7. THEN i found out that theres a P72 running the motor. so i bought a P2E and put that in. BUT...

i was wondering...

is there a difference between DX/LX wiring harnesses since there is no vtec on those models?
is my EX supposed to come with a VTEC wiring harness? is there such a thing??

because when i had the P72 in there it gave me a VTEC MALFUNCTION DTC on my scanner and i just thought "well the motor doesnt have VTEC so that's probably it" well the DTC is long gone since P2E install but i STILL have a P1509 i believe the IAC VALVE CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION DTC and i dont know how to get rid of that for my inspection.:?:
 

Jas0nEK

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I'd be demanding my money back if I were you.
 


peeweezy

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HOLY CRAP!! ok so im looking through the CIVIC SERVICE MANUAL i got as a PDF file from some honda site i forget...and im looking at the intake manifold configurations and i just realized i dont have the intake manifold of a D16Y7

it looks more like a Y8 intake manifold...

...i hope the guy i bought it from wasnt trying to do a mini me swap

how do i tell what parts are what
 

Dannyloski

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Damn man, I hate to say it, but looks like you got pretty damn scammed. I too would ask for my money back if I were you.

Does the block say D16Y7? If the head doesnt have a VTEC Solenoid then you have D16Y7 (that's probably the fastest/easiest way to determine what you have). The dude might have only swapped to a Y8 Manifold on the Y7 Motor, you never know ...

Maybe you can get some pics for us of your Engine Bay and we can help you out a bit more.

The difference between the CX/DX/LX Wiring Harnesses and the HX/EX is that the IACV is a 3-Wire on the CX/DX/LX while on the HX/EX its a 2-Wire. As well as the Wiring for VTEC, since CX/DX/LX are Non-VTEC Motors and HX/EX are SOHC VTEC Motors.

In addition, if he in fact did swap over to a Y8 Manifold on the Y7 Motor, you need to do the IACV 3-Wire to 2-Wire Trick in order to get rid of your "IAC VALVE CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION DTC" Error Code. He was probably using the P72 to get rid of that. Its a very easy and quick fix/trick. Here's the info you need to do it, now that your are running a P2E ...



 


peeweezy

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THANK YOU SO MUCH!! yeah i tried getting the money and returning the car but the guy just keeps avoiding and ignoring all my attempts.

but i looked on the block and it says D16Y7. the head is P2F and the intake manifold is DEF a Y8 i think. what are the tell tale differences between the 2 manifolds just so i can make sure.

i took it to my friends shop where this guy has a turbo gsr in his EK and he told me immediately that i have to do the 3 wire 2 wire IACV trick. but i still dont understand...

which IACV is which? i have the one on the back of the IM with the 2 wire plug into it and 2 coolant lines. and then i have the one on the TB with the 3 wire. but i see 2 plugs on the TB with 3 wire plugs, is the IACV on the TB on the top of it or the side?

and im reading the instructions you included. what if i have the EX wire harness??
 

peeweezy

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well heres the pictures hope this clarifies things...

i must have the EX wire harness still because this DOES NOT match the one shown in your post above...WTF IS WRONG WITH MY CAR AHHH

THE ECU CURRENTLY IN MY CAR

the engine code and tranny code right next to it i suppose

must be a D16Y7 head according to this code

MY DIRTY DIRTY ENGINE BAY from what i've been researching that's a Y8 IM correct me if i'm wrong though

to my knowledge i believe this is a Y8 TB please correct me if i'm wrong i dont know what the Y7 TB looks like

now i heard on the Y7 the IACV is supposed to be on the TB and if so...then i guess THAT could be the cause of my problems since i have a Y8 TB

just put this to maybe clarify further


SO...to sum it up I BELIEVE I HAVE A D16Y7 WITH A Y8 INTAKE MANIFOLD WITH A Y8 TB WITH EX WIRE HARNESS
 

Dannyloski

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Okay, wait ... I'm really confused here and its really hard to know what I'm working with if I cant see it, is there any way you can take pics?

After re-reading your Post like 5 Times and if I read correctly you said that the IACV that's connected to the Harness is the 2-Wire IACV located behind the Intake Manifold, right? If so, then it seems like he might've already done the IACV 3-Wire to 2-Wire Trick.

I believe that you are getting confused with the Sensors that are located on the Throttle Body, thinking that they are the IACV, they are not. Those sensors are the TPS and the MAP Sensor. Leave them be and dont mess with them.

Since it seems like the Trick has already been applied, then you need to go ahead and trace the dude's steps to see if he did everything right, do this ...

- Unplug the 2-Wire Plug from the IACV behind the Intake Manifold.
- Trace the Wires and make sure that the Wires are correctly wired up. Here's how they should be:
~Yellow/Black Wire from the Engine Harness Side to the Green/Black Wire on the 2-Wire Plug
~Black/Blue Wire from the Engine Harness Side to the Black Wire on the 2-Wire Plug
- Make sure that the Orange Wire from the Engine Harness Side is not connected anywhere, if it is remove it and discard it. It can be taped off as it will not be used.

After that, head over to Plug A on the ECU Side of the Harness, and make sure that these steps have been applied ...

- Make sure that the Black/Blue Wire is now in Pin A12 (Was suppose to be in Pin A14, but must be moved to complete the Fix)
- Make sure that the Orange Wire is De-Pin and not connected anywhere. Its suppose to be originally connected to Pin A1, but must be removed and left hanging, to complete the Fix as it will not be used.

That it! If all those steps were followed then the dude did the IACV Trick already and that's not the cause of your IACV Error Code. If you find an Mistake that the dude made in the IACV Trick, then correct it and see if that works. Remember that you need to Reset your ECU after you make a change, just Unplug the Negative Terminal from the Battery and Reconnect (This will cause the ECU to Reset Automatically).

If there is no mistake to be found in the IACV Trick, then you might have a Dirty IACV ... Remove the IACV from the back of the Intake Manifold and check the little screen to see if its plugged up and dirty, etc. If so, take some Carb Cleaner and spray it on there. Make sure its nice and clean and then Reconnect it. Reset the ECU and test to see if the Error Code is gone.

Good luck man ...

EDIT:

Alright, so thanks for taking pics, because this makes it much, much easier. From the pics, it looks like you are right, you have a D16Y7 Motor with a D16Y8 Intake Manifold & Throttle Body. It also seems like that is in fact a EX Harness that you are using, so the IACV Trick doesnt need to be applied, the Harness is already prepped for a 2-Wire IACV.

Since you are using a EX Harness and there's no need to apply the IACV Trick to it, then that means that you probably just have a Dirty IACV, soooo ...

Dannyloski said:
Remove the IACV from the back of the Intake Manifold and check the little screen to see if its plugged up and dirty, etc. If so, take some Carb Cleaner and spray it on there. Make sure its nice and clean and then Reconnect it. Reset the ECU and test to see if the Error Code is gone.
 

peeweezy

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would an IACV trick be necessary with an EX harness? i think thats whats in my car since there's a VTEC solenoid plug by my distributor. i cleaned the IACV when i first got it when i first found the code it was nasty black and now it looks brand new and still getting DTC. also there's no signs he even attempted to rewire anything because there's no wires spliced anywhere other than my red ones going every which way. also the plug that goes into my IACV the wire for that looks untampered with but also there's a yellow/black wire and a black/blue wire that's snipped by my coming out from the same harness where the TPS is...no idea what those wires go to since they are just snipped

also, there's no change with idle at all when i plug/unplug the plug going into the IACV while the car is running.
cut the plug and wired it up to the random yellow/black and black/blue wires i told you about and nothing still getting error

when i casually step on the gas to go my whole car JERKS when i reach the RPM range indicated below. the only way to combat that is by stomping on the gas to bring the RPM past that before taking my foot off the clutch


im so stressed out
 

Dannyloski

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I dont know if you read the "EDIT" I posted on the previous Post, but no there is no need for a IACV Trick to be applied if you are using an EX Harness as its already prepped for a 2-Wire IACV.

My question is, where are those other Yellow/Black & Blue/Black Wires you posted here leading to? Are those just laying there or are they connected to something?

Since you already cleaned the IACV and the 3-Wire to 2-Wire Trick is not the issue, then I guess that means your IACV is shot ... Buy a New One and that should fix your problem. They are a bit on the expensive side, so save up about $180 and go get one at Honda. Dont buy a Used one from someone because you never know if it actually works or not, the only way to guarantee it'll work is if its Brand New.
 

peeweezy

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ARGH this sucks lol thanks for all your help

well i guess ill see if i can pick up an IACV asap. they run that much??? omg this car is going to be the death of me haha i remember i got an IACV from the junkyard off a 95 civic D16Z6 and threw it on there because i had a hunch when i first got it after cleaning it but the code was still there. these IACV are probably incompatible though

well i looked at the yellow/black and black/blue wires and they just dont go to anything. i looked and felt and scratched every surface of the engine bay and just cannot figure out what they could go to. the only wires that are awry are those and theres also green wires i think that are also snipped that don't go anywhere near the VTEC plug

im hoping theres nothing from the stock airbox that should be connected to those because i dont have that

so i've eliminated pretty much everything...
 

Dannyloski

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You need to get the D16Y8 IACV.

If I were you I would check for Vacuum Leaks before you go off and buy the IACV from Honda. Make sure that the Intake Manifold is bolted up tightly to the Head and so is the Throttle Body. A Vacuum Leak can cause the IACV Error Code to come on. Spray Carb Cleaner/WD40/Starting Fluid around in the Manifold area, if the engine Revs up then that's where the Vacuum Leak is at. Be careful, dont spray too much and do it part by part so that its easier to pin down where the Leak is coming from.
 

Jersey8

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ok first, calm down. getting frustrated and annoyed will only make matters worse. i actually had iacv issues this past weekend, my idle was surging from 1,000-2,000, similar to your problems. i had an old iacv lying around that i knew was good, so i switched to that one and it fixed my problem, and now my car runs great. look at the junkyard for a used iacv, throw it in there, and you should be good to go.

make sure you get an IACV for a MANUAL D16Y8. manual and auto iacvs are different.
 

peeweezy

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well i went and scoured pretty much all the junkyards i could around boston and it looks like all the tuner heads ripped apart every civic before i got to it. all the integras civics del sols crxs were stripped of everything the only thing that were untouched were accords.

i sprayed carb cleaner around the IM and TB and no leak that i could find. you think maybe replacing the TB IM gasket could probably help?

well when i first started experiencing the problem i took the IACV off and cleaned it and even tried REPLACING IT WITH AN IACV OFF A 95 CIVIC D16Z6 because there was no IACV i could find for my car that was available in any of the junkyards and that didnt work. is there a big diff between the 2 IACVs? i know the labels on each one are different numbers but both made by denso and the gasket openings are different

i think i have to buy a brand new IACV...
 

Jersey8

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im not sure on the compatability of the two IACV's but if the gasket openings are different then i would assume they are not compatible. like i said earlier, i dont think its an air leak because i had the same symptoms as you when i had a bad IACV. i could be wrong though...
 

Dannyloski

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If memory serves me right ...

The IACV from the Z6 will not work on the Y8 because they arent the same. On the Y8, you can use an IACV off a B16A2 (99-00 Civic Si), D16Y5 (96-00 Civic HX), or of course the one from a D16Y8 (96-00 Civic EX).

The Z6 IACV will work for a B18B (97-01 Integra LS) or a B18C1 (97-01 Integra GSR) aside from the D16Z6.

Anyways, if its not a Vacuum Leak because you didnt find it when you sprayed Carb Cleaner, then I guess there's no other option but to get a Brand New D16Y8 IACV from Honda and see if that hopefully fixes it (I'm pretty sure it will). Assuming of course, you checked and made sure that the Throttle Body was mounted tightly onto the Intake Manifold and that the Intake Manifold was bolted tightly onto the Head.

Getting a New Throttle Body Gasket will not really help (IMHO) because you said there is no Vacuum Leak there (when you sprayed Carb Cleaner), so that means the current Gasket is working fine.
 

Drackonn

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that wire that is cut is it a black/yellow wire? or 2 wires 1 black 1 yellow? I do not know what it is so I would check ff-squad.com they have a diagram pinout and it will tell you what wire it is.

the second connector by your distributor that isnt connected looks to be your vtec solenoid sensor so you have an EX harness like they previously stated.

As for the IACV having problems, I would check all around your IM and TB ... make sure there are no leaks, including your vacuum lines etc ... make sure there are no cracks, or holes in them, thre are many places you can have leakes besides just the gaskets(My car had a slit in a vacuum line that I couldnt tell was there)

and last but not least, I would replace the gaskets, you dont know what the motor has been through, they are cheap, and easy to replace, so it doesnt hurt.
 

peeweezy

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its a black/yellow wire and theres also a black/blue wire. im going to check my lines again tonight and see if i can find something different otherwise SIGH wake up early tomorrow and go to AZ and get a brand new IACV
 

Dannyloski

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^ Dont go to Auto Zone, get it from Honda. OEM is always the best way to go even if its a little bit more money, especially with things such as these.

Are the other wires that are laying around in this picture here. Yellow/Black (Main Color Yellow w/ Black Line) and Black/Blue (Main Color Black with Blue Line)??
 

peeweezy

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yes the main color is yellow and the main color is black...are they important??? i havent been able to figure out where they go
 


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