what harness do i have??!!

[matt96ex]

seems like you may of pinpointed the problem. another way ive heard to see if the IACV works is take it off the manifold and get some wire and a battery and touch the two little prongs where you would plug it in at and if you hear the valve open, its good? just a suggestion. dunno if thats true or not. ive tried it before.
and if you don't want to spend the $$$ on a brand new one from honda, im sure someone on here has a spare one laying around.

 

[peeweezy]

well the thing is the plug going into the IACV is fine and connected through the stock harness and looks unaltered. the wires that im talking about that are snipped are in a random location by my TPs and TB and i have no idea what they go to...

...this is weird

when my car is running and i take the plug off the IACV the car's idle doesnt change at all. and if i plug it back on while its running the idle doesnt change at all...whats that mean???

 

[Dannyloski]

It is really weird that the Color wires that are just laying there randomly are the ones that are used for the IACV if it was a 3-Wire. Pull these snipped wires and trace them to see where they go. Do they go back into the Harness (they shouldn't)? I'm sure they are just loose and stuck between something, but the only way to know for sure is for you to pull them and trace them. Let me know what you find out.

If your car is running and you remove the IACV Plug and the Idle doesnt change at all that means that the Valve is stuck open (more than likely).

I just thought of something, have you checked the TPS with a Digital Multimeter to see how much Voltage its putting out? When the Throttle is closed it should be ~.5 Volts or less, Open Throttle is ~4.5 Volts. If it reads more than .5 Volts at close throttle then the ECU wont use the IACV to control the Idle. To test the TPS, use a paper clip or something and tap into the middle wire with the positive terminal of the Digital Multimeter and connect the Ground Terminal to a good ground (obviously). Do this test with the engine running and the TPS connected. Report back what you get.

 

[Drackonn]

Numbers 11 and 14 under connector A ... without looking at your harness thats the best I can guess ... 14 is part of your IACV, so make sure someone didnt just repin your harness and was too lazy to remove that wire ... or repinned it wrong ...

 

[peeweezy]

well imma give the multi meter a try when i wake up in the morning hope i find something useful out lol

 

[Drackonn]

well imma give the multi meter a try when i wake up in the morning hope i find something useful out lol

let us know

 

[peeweezy]

well i woke up late CRAP im at work just fiddling around on the computer i cant wait until this problem is solved

so what if i find that the TPS is causing the IACV not to come on??

 

[Drackonn]

well i woke up late CRAP im at work just fiddling around on the computer i cant wait until this problem is solved

so what if i find that the TPS is causing the IACV not to come on??

if your tps sensor is bad then you need a new one ... but I think its going to have to do with the 2 cut loose hanging wires ...

 

[peeweezy]

sorry i havent updated at all for a while i have wednesday and thursdays off every week so i havent had a chance to do much since i work second shift ARGH!! im going to wake up early tomorro though and head to either honda or autozone. i looked at some honda dealerships around boston area and none of them have the IACV i need WTF

 

[peeweezy]

well i got up bright and early went and got a new IACV installed it still getting DTC reset everything still the same. fiddled with wires still the same. checked everything for leaks still the same i dont know what to do anymore. me and my buddy are stumped. im just going to return the IACV and get my $180 back since the car is acting the same no difference at all with the new IACV

....W...T...F

now im really considering just building my own LSVTEC from the ground up and just drive my current motor into the ground while im at it

 

[Dannyloski]

Did you check the TPS? If at Fully Closed Thorttle its over .5 Volts the ECU wont send the Signal that controls the IACV, so that might be the reason.

To fix this you do not need a New TPS, all you need to do is adjust it, until you get .5 (or less) Volts at fully closed, try to keep it between .45-.5 Volts. Loosen the screws and play with it until you get that reading in the DMM, then tighten up the screws again.

 

[peeweezy]

what am i adjusting? my throttle cable is already i think as loose as it should be. the cable isnt even tight at the throttle piece on the TB so its pretty much completely closed so i dont know what else to adjust

my buddy and i pretty much checked everything other than pulling the IM off itself and put it back on to see because it was scorching hot out yesterday

i am running out of patience and ideas. if i leave my foot on the gas and have it the rpm range where i have the stupid idle problem and turn off the check engine light at the same light the car runs like normal but then the light only stays off for about 3 seconds and then BAM it comes back on.

 

[Dannyloski]

I never said to adjust the Throttle Cable ... I said the TPS Sensor. So again, check the Voltage of the TPS Sensor (Middle Wire) with the Key on the "Accessories" Position and ...

If at Fully Closed Thorttle its over .5 Volts then that might be the reason why you have your Idle Issue because the ECU wont send the Signal that controls the IACV.

To fix this you do not need a New TPS (like someone suggested), all you need to do is adjust your current one until you get .5 (or less) Volts at fully closed Throttle - Try to keep it between .45-.5 Volts. To adjust it, loosen the screws that hold the TPS Sensor onto the Throttle Body and play with it until you get .45-.5 Volt readings in the DMM, then tighten up the screws again.

 

[peeweezy]

well i looked and i think the screws that hold my TPS sensor in are stripped...wtf

 

[Dannyloski]

They are not Stripped, that's how they are. You need to remove the TB from the IM first. Then use a Flat Head Screw Driver and a Hammer and hit the Screw's Head counter-clockwise to loosen them. I suggest replacing them after wards with other either Flathead or Philliphead screws.

Anyways, before you do that, test the TPS! If its reading .5 Volts at Fully Closed Throttle, then there is no reason for you to need to remove it. If its not reading .5 Volts and its reading something higher, then that's when you'd need to mess with it.

I give up dude ... I try to help, but you dont try what I say, so whatever ... Good luck fixing you Idle!

 

[harne_kyle]

well heres the pictures hope this clarifies things...

i must have the EX wire harness still because this DOES NOT match the one shown in your post above...WTF IS WRONG WITH MY CAR AHHH

THE ECU CURRENTLY IN MY CAR

the engine code and tranny code right next to it i suppose

must be a D16Y7 head according to this code

MY DIRTY DIRTY ENGINE BAY from what i've been researching that's a Y8 IM correct me if i'm wrong though

to my knowledge i believe this is a Y8 TB please correct me if i'm wrong i dont know what the Y7 TB looks like

now i heard on the Y7 the IACV is supposed to be on the TB and if so...then i guess THAT could be the cause of my problems since i have a Y8 TB

just put this to maybe clarify further

SO...to sum it up I BELIEVE I HAVE A D16Y7 WITH A Y8 INTAKE MANIFOLD WITH A Y8 TB WITH EX WIRE HARNESS

i would also like to know what the hell that snipped green wire is for.. i have it too and never figured out what it went to so if you could help???