Y7 to Z6 swap issues

[JuiceBoxHero]

It's been a loooong time since I posted, but I just can't figure this one out.

Long story short, my Y7 crapped out, nobody in the area could get the right parts to fix it, so i started hunting for motors and came up with a '95 Z6 for a decent price. Time is sort of a concern, so I bought it.

Now I understand that the Z6 is not a direct or even simple swap into a newer, OBDII non-vtec car, so to save time and just get the car running, I'm reusing a lot of the stuff from the Y7 to maintain compatibility with my current harness. (I do have the full uncut Z6 harness set aside for later when I get the P28)

There is one connector though I can't figure out... On the drivers side, near the connectors for the alternator there is one with three wires, blue w/ red stripe, white w/orange stripe, and black. It's in the same area as what I assume is a temperature sensor that plugs directly into the block. If anyone knows what this is or what not having it will do, any input would be welcome.

Please note that I'm not trying to get vtec working or convert to OBDI at the moment, just get the engine to fire and run decently using the OBDII ecu and harness until I move in to my new place and can do this swap the right way.

Anyone who responds with "Google" or "Search Bar"... Idk... I'm stuck at my parents house, I've got dial-up, and I've searched for hours all over H-T, FFS, here, and Google to no avail. I'll have pics of it up soon, but dial-up is being unforgiving at the moment.

 

[RonJ]

CKF sensor. The Z6 doesn't have this sensor, so you'll throw a CKF code if you use the OBD2 ECU.

 

[KillaGuizEj8Si]

its probably the sensor that goes to the oil pump , obd2 vehicles use it but the z6 wont . Also your gonna have a extra plug on your harness from the knock sensor that is also not on the z6. If you continue to use your obd2 y7 ecu you will get a cel because the ecu is looking for these sensors that you dont have. best bet would be to get a obd1 p28 so you will not have these cels. It wont really affect the way your car runs but you will have the cel light on

 

[KillaGuizEj8Si]

ughhh ron beat me to it lol

 

[RonJ]

its probably the sensor that goes to the oil pump , obd2 vehicles use it but the z6 wont . Also your gonna have a extra plug on your harness from the knock sensor that is also not on the z6. If you continue to use your obd2 y7 ecu you will get a cel because the ecu is looking for these sensors that you dont have. best bet would be to get a obd1 p28 so you will not have these cels. It wont really affect the way your car runs but you will have the cel light on

The Y7 does not have a knock sensor.

 

[KillaGuizEj8Si]

ok sorry i was assuming it was like my old y8 thanx for letting me know

 

[RonJ]

But I'm pretty sure there's a CKF wire trick to avoid a CEL code.

 

[JuiceBoxHero]

Ahhh.. yeah that makes perfect sense, thanks for pointing that out. I really feel like an idiot now, since that was actually one of the things I took note of when researching the swap, but I just forgot about it while actually doing the swap. I read into it a bit more, and not having the CKF really doesn't affect the running of the engine, just throws a CEL. Within the next 2 weeks I'll be converting to OBDI, so that's of little concern for now.

What's more pressing at the moment seems to be the main relay. Everything in the bay (sans ckf) is connected properly and double-checked, the Y7 dizzy is kindof a guess right now, since it's upside down and only held on with 2 bolts.. I figure there is a 50/50 chance of it being right. Anyway, when I turn the key into the "On" position, the main relay clicks rapidly and the CEL flashes along with it. So far what I've found on Google suggests that this is a common problem, but my 24kb/s connection is severely limiting my searching ability. Hopefully once the few H-T threads I've opened load I can figure this out, but until then any input is welcome.

Oh, btw... RonJ, you da man.

Update:
The main relay seems to be fine internally, so there must be a grounding issue. None of the wiring was changed during the swap, so right now this one is beyond me. Any help or input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[KillaGuizEj8Si]

Wow huh all the love for ron huh? Well im pretty sure ur y7 isn't going to work on the z6. You are going to need a step down harness from rywire there less than$ 50 and run the obd1 z6 dizzy

 

[JuiceBoxHero]

Wow huh all the love for ron huh?

Not all of it, but he is the man. I'd be willing to bet that more than half of his 7k+ posts have been the answer, or at least a start in the right direction for a lot of people's problems.

Well im pretty sure ur y7 isn't going to work on the z6.

The Y7 dizzy will still work (well, it should) on the Z6 since I am using the Y7 harness, the only issue with the Y7 dizzy is the different bolt pattern; the ECU doesn't know any different. I do think it is the dizzy causing this though, because when we where pulling the Y7 out it was still plugged in, and broke the connector. I'm pretty sure that there is a broken wire or a wire was pulled loose in the distributor or in one of the connectors. It still clips together, but it's pretty much broken. I'm currently in the process of troubleshooting this with my multimeter, but I might as well be doing it blindfolded, since I'm not sure what wires are supposed to carry what voltage. I've searched Google and H-T for a wiring diagram, but it's slow going with my connection.

Update:

Turns out the broken connector for the dizzy isn't so broken after all, and all the wires transmit power to the proper place, none are broken (according to a beep-test). So I can rule out the dizzy... now what?
I'm starting to think the lack of a CKF may have something to do with this, but even with one plugged in to the harness the relay still clicks like mad. Is this because the sensor is just hanging under the car?
Regardless, I found a CKF delete trick on FF-Squad that I'm going to do here in a few minutes, but I'm not very hopeful.

Another Update:

I figured out the relay problem; Turns out it was a missing ground on the thermostat housing :\
But of course, there is another issue... this time definitely with the dizzy. I just need to take the Y7 guts and put them in the Z6 housing and everything should be hunky-dori... only problem is the engine I bought didn't have the dizzy, so I've got to buy one tomorrow. Oh well...