b16 swap won't start

lonewolf

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Hello all,

As some of you may be aware I am having a b16 swap into my 96 coupe, after various problems and setbacks, everything is now hooked up and connected and it looks SWEET!. Today was the day to start her up.

For those that don't know, i'm swapping out the non-vtec d16 for a b16a2 from a 1999 VTi (UKDM Si), including a p2t ecu and loom. The ecu is a odb2a (one plug on left and two on the right, not odb2b where left three are used)


(and before anybody says anything I know the battery isn't connect, neither is the power steering!!)



I'm having the work done by a garage, and relying (sp?) on lifts etc.. haven't been able to get down there today to take a look, but will be going there tomorrow am, so if someone could help with what I should be looking for.

Basically what the guy is telling me is that the engine turns and cranks, all plugs are sparking, fuel pump is primed and ready, but engine won't start. He didn't say if the injecters were pulsing, and didn't say if there were any lights on the dash. If there was a light, he would have said, but next time I speak with him i'll ask the questions.

He has changed the dist cap and rotor for the fun of it, checked all the wiring and plumbing etc.. followed all the wires and all checks out ok. Basically he can't find anything wrong with it... apart from not starting.

Could this be an immobiliser issue? is there a way to tell if the immobiler has cut in? or could it be a ecu fault, corrupted or something?? how can I remove the immobiliser.

I'm going down there tomorrow to use my limited understanding of cars and will check for myself:- cel's, battery, all connections and wires, check for injector pulse, distributor ignitor, earthing on the thrmostat and timing.


Anyone had similar problems, suggestions of other things to check or able to help??

Thanks very much.

Tim
 

Blazed

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i think the reason its not starting is the ecu..
u need a obd2b ecu...thats the only thing that i find inconsistent with everything u mentioned..
 


turboex17

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Blazed said:
i think the reason its not starting is the ecu..
u need a obd2b ecu...thats the only thing that i find inconsistent with everything u mentioned..
:wstupid: I was thinking the same thing
 

FRODO

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check and make sure fuel is getting to the injectors and make sure they are working.
 


lonewolf

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Everything came out of a '99 vti (all be it not the same physical car). I thought that p2t was obd2b only, but i compared the connectors on the back with those on the hondata tech page and they are like the second one down (obd2). So they are 2a and 2b... confusing.

obd2b ecu is difficult to get hold of and could be expencive if its not that. Something else to think about though, thankyou blazed and turboex.

frodo this is something else i will be checking tomorrow as well. This can be done by removing the fuel return line yes? Thanks!
 

Blazed

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actually obd2b ecu's should be cheap liek any obd2 ecu..just make sure the ecu is from 99-00 civic and ur good to go...
hondata shoul dhave a picture of the obd2b as well so u can check that...
if not check this site..they will definitely have it..
also u can double check ur wiring with this..

www.ff-squad.com
 

FRODO

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lonewolf said:
Everything came out of a '99 vti (all be it not the same physical car). I thought that p2t was obd2b only, but i compared the connectors on the back with those on the hondata tech page and they are like the second one down (obd2). So they are 2a and 2b... confusing.

obd2b ecu is difficult to get hold of and could be expencive if its not that. Something else to think about though, thankyou blazed and turboex.

frodo this is something else i will be checking tomorrow as well. This can be done by removing the fuel return line yes? Thanks!
of the line before the fuel rail, and all so make sure that the spark plugs were changed they might bad and not sparking.
 

FRODO

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Blazed said:
actually obd2b ecu's should be cheap liek any obd2 ecu..just make sure the ecu is from 99-00 civic and ur good to go...
hondata shoul dhave a picture of the obd2b as well so u can check that...
if not check this site..they will definitely have it..
also u can double check ur wiring with this..

www.ff-squad.com
if the ecu is the case, just to make sure it starts use your stock ecu it should be able to start it.
 

Blazed

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:werd:
when u said ur mechanic changed the dizzy cap and rotor for the heck of it..,
well those r some things u should change when doing a swap anyways...
as well ass the plugs the wires...;)
 

FRODO

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Blazed said:
:werd:
when u said ur mechanic changed the dizzy cap and rotor for the heck of it..,
well those r some things u should change when doing a swap anyways...
as well ass the plugs the wires...;)
and timing belt, water pump, headgasket, all the seals, and any other gaskets, did he change the oil?
 

Blazed

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FRODO said:
and timing belt, water pump, headgasket, all the seals, and any other gaskets, did he change the oil?
lol i was gonna make sure u have oil...
if a 99 motor needs a timing belt and water pump and seals r gone..i would say he has other problems to worry about once it does start :lol:

my 97's timing belt looks brand new..as does the waterpump...headgasket is not the best but no leaks whatsoever...anyways a visual inspection is a must though...;)
 

lonewolf

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Wow so many posts to respond to in such a short amount of time. Thanks everybody!

All parts are out of a 99 VTi am being assured of this.

The ecu looks like the second one down on this picture link- http://www.hondata.com/techecuid.html, and has P2T on the serial number.

Thanks for the link blazed - i will read though it.

frodo, my stock ecu (for a d16y7) will start a b16a2? Didn’t think of that one.. That is defiantly worth trying. Thanks!!

Blazed, yes he put new rotor and cap, leads and plugs on as part of the swap, he also changed them again (for the fun of it) to see if that was the problem. Sorry for not being clear on that one.

Everything else has been replaced as well. I thought that asthe engine was apart anyway its best to do it now and not have to worry about it later.

The block has been striped down, all parts inspected. Pistons and cylinder walls were in excellent condition (as you would expect) with new main and big end bearings fitted (foc), new oil seals as well. All new honda gasket set (head, cam cover, intake, exhaust, basically all gaskets). New bolts, new clutch as well (standard honda one - I thought it best to do it while it was apart, instead of putting it all in and finding cltch was worn) and a Quaife ATB diff is in there as well (with new bearings).

Head has had a port and polish and gas flowed?. They also shaved a bit off (i can't remember exactly how much) and gave it a bath i think. All the valve train was inspected and faultless (as expected)

Yes, they used new engine oil and honda mtf ;)


I can't think of anything else, if I do i'll let you know.


Again, thank you to everyone who has helped :thumbs up
 

Blazed

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what uears ur car?
if its a 99-00 then yes ur d16y7 will start the car..but i would def. not drive it...
ur ecu is not programmed for vtec and lot of other shyt..the maps will be all off...
so yeh u can try starting it but i would leave it at that
 

lonewolf

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My car is 1996. The plugs on the new loom will fit the old ecu, but the pins may be different i guess?
 

Blazed

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now check the ecu u have with the p2t....
if they look the same that means they r both obd2a...
plugs will fit i believe but dont put it on...
u need to use a conversion harness to connect to a diff obd..
 

Blazed

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lol yes i hope u checked ur grounds...all of them infact..
iO he gettin thsi shyt done at a store..they shoul dtake care of everything..
but then thats why i did mine myself becauise i dont trust the f**kin shops..
 

io_303

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I know he is getting it done at a shop, but when i did my swap, it took me almos a day to figure out that all of the grounds needed to be hooked up. Its a very common mistake even for a shope. Check the one from the valve cover, thats the one that got me
 

Blazed

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io_303 said:
I know he is getting it done at a shop, but when i did my swap, it took me almos a day to figure out that all of the grounds needed to be hooked up. Its a very common mistake even for a shope. Check the one from the valve cover, thats the one that got me
haha suckaaaaaaaaaaaa...mine started right up cause i'm cooler than u 8)
 


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