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Civic 93 delay to turn off the check light (engine doesn't start while CEL on)

Discussion in '5th Generation Honda Civic (1992-1995)' started by ElMaq, Feb 9, 2017.



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  1. SD_760

    SD_760 New Member

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    Ok I don't know if I fixed it with the new fuse but now my 1-7 and 5-7 are both priming the pump

    Still check engine is solid no start

    So... anything else I should check? Or think it's ECU
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2017
  2. SD_760

    SD_760 New Member

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    IMG_3863.JPG
    Ecu came intoday , plugged it in , fired right up , check engine came off after 2 seconds fuel pump primed like it was supposed to on ON (II) , car isn't reading temp. But it turned on and I'm good to go:ok:
     
  3. boofoo

    boofoo Respected Registered VIP

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    Has the temp gauge ever worked?
     
  4. SD_760

    SD_760 New Member

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    I just got the car ... when I get home I'm gonna check it out.
     
  5. SD_760

    SD_760 New Member

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    Ok so I replaced the thermostat with a fail safe , I replaced the fan switch after testing the connector and turning the fan on manually , I replaced the temp sensor ( and I have a reading gauge now) my car is not saying it's over heating but everything seems to get kind of hot and some smoke from radiator starts to come and still no fan turns on so I shut the car off before any over heating occurs. What should I look for because my fan is not turning on ...
     
  6. boofoo

    boofoo Respected Registered VIP

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    Bleed the cooling system after topping off the radiator and reservoir with coolant.
     
  7. SD_760

    SD_760 New Member

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    Ok I did that. My thermostat is not opening up, not getting circulation to bottom radiator hose. Rad fan won't come on ... it works when I loop the connector , have a new thermostat new fan switch and new temp gauge... what am I missing?
     
  8. boofoo

    boofoo Respected Registered VIP

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    Describe how you bled the system.

    Sounds like there's still air trapped in the system.
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2017
  9. SD_760

    SD_760 New Member

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    Jacked the front end up , put a funnel in the radiator filled it with coolant , squeezed the lower radiator tube and the then the upper radiator tube, topped off the reservoir to max line , turned the car on put heater on continued to squeeze lower radiator tube until no bubbles would come on let it idle for about 10 minutes or so until it started to get normal operating temp, couldn't add any more coolant, capped the radiator listened my bleeder screw not man bubbles came out at all so I squeezed the tubes a little bit solid stream of fluid so I turned it off =\ - I tried to look for a proper step by step for bleeding coolant system and found a bunch of posts with a bunch of different vague information
     
  10. boofoo

    boofoo Respected Registered VIP

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    Your method was fine, but you must let the engine idle until the radiator fan turns on twice. The radiator cap must be loose (turned one notch) the entire time. It may take 30 minutes. Watch for engine overheating during the procedure.

    Was the heater set to max heat and did the air blow hot?
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2017
  11. SD_760

    SD_760 New Member

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    Yeah it got hot and everything , but my fans won't turn on, I'm still having no fan issue replaced fan switch still nothing and when I jump connector it works what do I do to get fans to come on ?
     
  12. boofoo

    boofoo Respected Registered VIP

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    Bleed!

    Loosen bleeder bolt until no air is released.

    Set the heater to max heat with cabin blower OFF.

    Only terminate procedure if engine overheats.
     
  13. SD_760

    SD_760 New Member

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    Ok well my temp gauge does not show over heat but I start to see smoke rising somewhere out of engine bay between radiator and engine it could just be some fluid but still I don't want the damn engine to overheat because the thermostat is not passing fluid?
     
  14. boofoo

    boofoo Respected Registered VIP

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    Just monitor engine temp and coolant level.
     
  15. SD_760

    SD_760 New Member

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    Also are you saying just put the temp slider
    ok so I did it again jacked it up higher squeezed harder left it on longer and I finally got the coolant to pass through to the hose past the thermostat so I'm assuming it opened up and I got the air out. However the fan still wouldn't come on. And I started to see smoke coming from the radiator , no signs of temperature heating up but it was idleing for a good 13minutes with no fans coming on and it should have come on - should I replace the relay ? Is there any other possibility of the fans not coming on? I've been searching forums and videos and have spent a lot of time , nothing in the manual about diagnosing radiator fans , the fan works I manually jumped the fan switch plug... what can I do? The coolant seemed to be circulating legit. point me in the next direction if possible?
     
  16. boofoo

    boofoo Respected Registered VIP

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    Correct. You only need to slide the lever to max heat.

    How long did you let the engine idle after the temp gauge indicated the engine was fully warmred up?

    If the weather is cold where you live, it may take 20-30 minutes for the fan to turn on.

    Being patient will pay off.
     
  17. SD_760

    SD_760 New Member

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    Nah it's in California. The engine was warmed up for a good 10 -12 minutes easy I'm prettty sure the fan should have come on at least one time. I mean I thought the radiator was gonna explode... lol smoke coming off it a lot. I thought ok maybe it just burning fluid. But the car has been smoking A little since I first got it to turn on. It got a test drive around the block and was seeing some smoke coming from radiator area of engine bay. I didn't count how long it was on for but it seemed like a while. I'll time it tomorrow and see what happens... I'm thinking one of the relays needs to be changed or something it should have come on in my opinion.
     
  18. boofoo

    boofoo Respected Registered VIP

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    What was the outside temp during the bleed?

    Not necessarily. Civic engines run cold.

    If the temp gauge was reading normal, then you are fine. You were watching the temp gauge, right?

    Pressure test the cooling system to locate the leak. Once identified, fix the leak and then bleed until the fan comes on twice.
     
  19. SD_760

    SD_760 New Member

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    It was like 75 degrees - yeah temp never went to/past half way it was like at 40%. It would make since having a leak I guess. Ok let me see if I can find a leak in the system and will repeat bleed.
     
  20. boofoo

    boofoo Respected Registered VIP

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    Perfect

    If you can't locate the leak with the engine idling, then use a tool that pressurizes the cooling system so you can reveal the leak with engine off.
     


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