D16Y7 air box / strut bar fit

Stliqn007

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Hello guys,new to the forum.
So the deal is,I bought a stock vti front upper strut bar for my '97 civic D16Y7 motor.
Since I've never done this I hadn't foreseen that the stock air filter box would get in the way.
I don't wanna cut up the box cuz of some little clamp that's getting in the way So I'm probably gonna get a different air intake.

So the question is: What am I suppose to do with all the sensors and piping going into the stock air box?
If I get an air intake,it will most likely only have a hole for the breather hose. (might not even have that).
I've got to do this on a short budget so anything that would help me get around that air box and putting on the strut would be a huge help.
PS. Yes,I removed the black box under the filter hose yesterday. I taped off the 2 holes going into the box (that's okay,right?)

Thanks :flush:

IMGP7207.JPG
 

HeX

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)If you wanted to keep the budget low then you shouldve researched this first. We had some going through the same issue recently. Research is your best friend here.

The VTi (Bulgaria) is equivalent to the JDM & European SiR. You'll need to change the air intake manifold to that of a d16y8 along with the corresponding air intake box. The other option would be to custom modify your current air box to conform to the VTi/SiR strut bar. That could entail either cutting up the box then resealing it well or possibly heat forming it accordingly to fit around the strut bar. The added reshaping could result in an inefficient airflow pattern into the manifold & reduce fuel efficiency, but not to a large difference.
 


HeX

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I changed your title to be more specific to your concern since youre trying to figure out how to fit on a strut bar.
"Air Intake on a D16Y7 question"
 

mymmeryloss

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Back in the day i did an AEM cold air intake on mine and it was plug and play
 


HeX

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Stliqn007

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This link below shows several members engine bay pics to provide some ideas. It seems every D16Y7 used an aftermarket intake set-up, such as the AEM one.

http://www.clubcivic.com/forum/threads/the-official-6th-generation-intake-thread.143160/

This one is a Password:JDM intake with what seems to be a no-name eBay sway bar.


Here's the same topic on Honda-Tech.com. You dont have many options in a budget at this point.
Thanks. Yeah,I was thinking of doing something like that. Was just wondering tho what I should do with hanging sensors. Whether I'd cause any severe problems running without them plugged in
 

HeX

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Honestly, cold air intakes like that arent worth the money on a stock engine, neither is trying to bypass any sensors. Theyre there for a reason. I dont feel that reducing proper engine performance and efficiency is worth stiffer turning ability. Continue to research your options and make an informed decision.
 

Stliqn007

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Honestly, cold air intakes like that arent worth the money on a stock engine, neither is trying to bypass any sensors. Theyre there for a reason. I dont feel that reducing proper engine performance and efficiency is worth stiffer turning ability. Continue to research your options and make an informed decision.
Well I just thought of how I could do it on the budget. Intake man wise,in the summer ill have enough to swap out the stock manifold for a y8 (if i even find one). I could remove the air box,use the stock air box pipe and connect it to a knee pipe which goes in the throttle body. Connect a filter to the end of the stock pipe and try making a hole for the breather hose. Kind of Haggard and not really effective air wise,but I think it could work.
 

HeX

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Well, thats on you if you're ok with setting up a needless ghetto rig that reduces performance because youre too impatient to wait a few months until you install a D16Y8 intake, throttle body, tubing & box.
 
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Stliqn007

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Well,I actually managed to drill the holes and put the strut on. 12517085_986004834805137_646108886_o.jpg

The air box tho,isn't 100 % fully tucked in. The rubber seal around the TB is actually really helping right now,since it's covering any possible holes . I could possibly get an adapter and try sealing it off.
12557726_986066004799020_1640607004_o.jpg 12557756_986065988132355_931224246_o.jpg
And I havent even touched the air box with a saw. :thumbup:
 

HeX

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The air box tho,isn't 100 % fully tucked in. The rubber seal around the TB is actually really helping right now,since it's covering any possible holes . I could possibly get an adapter and try sealing it off.
Im not understanding your descriptions. What do you mean the airbox isnt tucked in? Do you mean its not fully seated onto the throttle body because thecstrut bar is pushing it towards the firewall? If thats the case, the by "covering holes" you mean the throttle body seal to the airbox is flexing enough to cover the gap caused by the airbox sitting off centered & higher than its suppose to?

If this is all true, then you better take that strut bar off before driving. The engine vibration coupled with the strut bar sway will constantly move the airbox causing the throttle body seal on the airbox to flex and break. If not that, the seal seat on the box may also break from all that motion.

It may be built to allow flexion, but only so much and not to withstand engine bucking while stuck against the bar. If any breakage occurs, now you risk plastic or rubber fragments entering the intake, possibly incurring engine damage.

Analyze what you can do to create some space between the airbox & the strut bar, possibly by using a heat gun.
 

nd4sped

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That black bar is a OE 99-00 SI/TypeR strut bar. It was not designed for the central airbox of the D16Y7. After enough abuse it may cause the airbox to come off of the throttle body.
 

HeX

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That black bar is a OE 99-00 SI/TypeR strut bar. It was not designed for the central airbox of the D16Y7. After enough abuse it may cause the airbox to come off of the throttle body.
Yeah, that too.
 

NeedsMoreLow

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I pretty much just skimmed the forum, but why didn't you just buy a strut bar designed for your car? Strut bars are pretty generic, and they honestly don't do a whole lot.


Not sent from my iPhone using tapatalk.
 

HeX

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Read the full thread. The problem is the airbox that only pertains to the LX trim. There doesnt seem to be a quality strut bar that accommodates for LXs air box. Even if there is, he didnt research that so now he's trying to find a way to make his already acquired Si/SiR strut bar work while on a small budget.
 

Stliqn007

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U do have a point there with the breaking of rubber or plastic. At this point,it's pretty much trial and error. I could either try and raise the air box and put the adapter between the box and the TB so that it doesn't rub on the strut bar plus reducing pressure on the bits holding it right now.
Or go with the previous method and cut one of the clamps in a way that it doesn't expose the filter and then just drill a tiny hole and put some wire to hold it tight. I have to inspect it tho
 

HeX

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Trial & error and little research while on a tight budget? Prepare for likely failure. Thats a bad way to "start somewhere".
 

Diana Nam

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Trial & error and little research while on a tight budget? Prepare for likely failure. Thats a bad way to "start somewhere".
stole the word right out of my mouth lol, yea usually low budget mods don't fair to well did tons of those yrs ago went i bought my first civic
 


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