Erratic idle, power loss ideas?

Polestar

New Member
First of all hi! First time posting here and I'm hoping someone can help me out.

Here's my problem;

2005 civic se 1.7

I'm getting a rough idle where you can feel it in the steering wheel and in the seat when in drive. The idle rpm is all over the place from 1100 1000 900 when in idle. I understand that when it's warming up it will be higher but even after warm up it's all over the place. Yesterday I saw it drop to 600 and it was idling very smooth but then I took off and at the next light it was back to 1000 and rough.

The other issue I'm having is a random loss of power.

Example; air vents are full on and it loses power when stopping at a light. I would describe it as if you have the air on full and you turn it down two clicks. Then I take off and it goes back to full power. My headlights also dim a little bit when this happens and in the summer my ac stops cooling for a second and I get warm air for a couple of seconds.

I still have warranty on this car it's my first Honda and I'm not sure if these are common issues as I've only had the car a few months.

I have had a new alternator put in and a new battery under warranty in the past month.

I have taken out the iacv and cleaned it. It was fairly clean.

I put in a fram air filter last week and still no fix.

What could be causing this idle and power loss?

Thanks guys
 

Polestar

New Member
What are normal idle rpm for this engine?
 


Shaaaft

FNG
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
I had the air vent thing happen in a rental cobalt I had. When I asked the rental place about it they said they were made to do that because when the car isn't moving the air becomes colder and is more of a convenience for people. Might be the same thing but might not be.

When the lights go dim, is it for a quick second or long? If I use the window switch in my PT cruiser my headlights will go dim until I let off the switch. It's a problem that is in most PTs from what I gathered. Doesn't effect anything and is no sign for alarm but again, different car different problem and solution.
 

Polestar

New Member
I had the air vent thing happen in a rental cobalt I had. When I asked the rental place about it they said they were made to do that because when the car isn't moving the air becomes colder and is more of a convenience for people. Might be the same thing but might not be.

When the lights go dim, is it for a quick second or long? If I use the window switch in my PT cruiser my headlights will go dim until I let off the switch. It's a problem that is in most PTs from what I gathered. Doesn't effect anything and is no sign for alarm but again, different car different problem and solution.

.....

As I said in the original post, the power is lost until I accelerate. But this power surge happens still if I'm driving down the highway. It seems to coincide with the radiator fan?


So... no one has the typical RPM for this?


......
 


Polestar

New Member
So my civic was brought in for type b service (had a coupon) and theyvtold me this power loss is normal when the heater is on? And so I was thinking to myself so I can only have one thing on at a time oh I need heat better turn off my headlamps and turn off my stereo!

So the car idles "hard" until it reaches warm temp operating. This is normal? I find I get more surges when it's warmer out or after a car wash. This is driving me insane, makes me want to sell this car and never buy a Honda again.
 

knorm

New Member
you should go haive your altanator tested, and your battery while your there it sounds like your getting an insufficient flow of electricity...
 

Polestar

New Member
you should go haive your altanator tested, and your battery while your there it sounds like your getting an insufficient flow of electricity...


Brand new alternator and battery as I said in my first post.

Car idles like s**t until it warms up.
 

RonJ

Banned
Have you checked for CEL codes? Any dash warning light on in the cluster? Have you inspected the spark plugs?
 

Polestar

New Member
No dash errors.

I haven't checked the sparkplugs.

What kind should I put in if I replace them?

It seems to happen when the rad fan kicks on. In the summer the same thing happens where my ac seems to stop for a few seconds... Blow warm air then a few seconds later it's back to ice cold. This was the first winter I've driven the car as I purchased it from Honda last April.
 

RonJ

Banned
No dash errors.

I haven't checked the sparkplugs.

What kind should I put in if I replace them?
Your owners manual tells you what type of plugs to use, typically NGK. Purchase the exact plugs recommended in the manual. But first remove the old spark plugs and post clear pictures of them.
 

1991civicb16

Guest
Another thing to check since you are going to be all around the car is to make sure your belts are properly tightened. Just an idea loose belts will not provide the proper charge from your alternator. Good luck
 

Polestar

New Member
Another thing to check since you are going to be all around the car is to make sure your belts are properly tightened. Just an idea loose belts will not provide the proper charge from your alternator. Good luck
Brand new alternator and timing belt was installed when they replaced the alternator. Honda installed Honda parts.
 

Polestar

New Member
Changed the sparkplugs. The ones in there looked alright. But still replaced. No changes in anything.
 

RonJ

Banned
Just to clarify, does the idle problem only happen when the engine is hot or cold?

And does it only happen when the engine has some type of load (e.g. when A/C is on or rad fan is running)? Or can it also happen when there is no load?
 

Polestar

New Member
The rough idle happens regardless of what's on.

As for the powerloss it doesn't happen all the time. It happens mostly when there is a load.

I'll see soon if it happens with the ac when spring comes, as it's still -20 here in Canada. =)
 

RonJ

Banned
Some other things to try:

1) Replace the PCV valve.

2) Check for vacuum leaks.

3) Reset the ECU for an idle relearn.
 

Polestar

New Member
Some other things to try:

1) Replace the PCV valve.

2) Check for vacuum leaks.

3) Reset the ECU for an idle relearn.
Thanks Ron I'll try that.

Even the other day it was nice out, I had the blower on full and I would get the power surge at every stop light. I'd brake sit there for a second and like I said before I describe it as if I were to turn down the fan 2 knotches. It stays like that for a few seconds or if I give it some gas it goes back to normal or it slowly goes back to normal in a few seconds if I don't move.

And it really idles rough when it's in around 1000rpm, after it warms up and it's idling around 700 it's very smooth. But any time the rpm is around 1000 it's rough even when warm and I rev it up and it falls back near 1000 it idles rough for a second.
 
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RonJ

Banned
--->Hook up a code reader to check for CEL codes.

Do you have a multimeter? If not, get one. Then measure battery voltage across the two battery posts when:
1) Warm engine is idling with no electrical load (all accessories off).
2) Warm engine is idling with high electrical load - high beams, A/C on max blower, rear defrost on.

Post the voltages.
 


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