Help! Engine won't start
- Thread starter tocivic
- Start date
As stated in my original post:
1) Replaced spark plugs - and tested that there are sparks while cranking (by attaching a spark plug to a spark plug wire, and grounding the plug on the valve cover - tried this for all 4 plugs and wires - all have strong sparks)- i.e. ignition wires and distributor/rotor (brand new) are good. Also, checked resistance of all ignition wires - all are way below 25,000 ohms
1) Replaced spark plugs - and tested that there are sparks while cranking (by attaching a spark plug to a spark plug wire, and grounding the plug on the valve cover - tried this for all 4 plugs and wires - all have strong sparks)- i.e. ignition wires and distributor/rotor (brand new) are good. Also, checked resistance of all ignition wires - all are way below 25,000 ohms
did you put motor in yourself and put on the wiring harness yourself? If you remember i first started posting in this forum becuase of the same problem , which as of today is now fixed , i got my engine to start. But let me tell you what was wrong with mine. I had bought a wiring harness from a junkyard and then took it and put it on the motor i had. After putting it on motor didnt start and i checked everything humanly possible to get it to start. But today a ferind called me and asked me if the injector plug was capped , and that is where the problem was. Your ingector cap on the wiring harness is located near the firewall of the driver side. The cap has all yellow wires running into it. Make sure the top of that is cappd off. That was my problem , and now my car is running. I wish you the best of luck with your car man.
Two things-
First, are the cams and crank set properly on the timing marks and timing belt?
Second, are you sure you're using the right fuel injectors? Try matching the fuel injectors from your original engine. IT's always possible someone slipped the wrong injectors in there and they're flooding because they're the wrong resistance.
I hope you didn't answer these questions already or I'll feel pretty stupid.
B
First, are the cams and crank set properly on the timing marks and timing belt?
Second, are you sure you're using the right fuel injectors? Try matching the fuel injectors from your original engine. IT's always possible someone slipped the wrong injectors in there and they're flooding because they're the wrong resistance.
I hope you didn't answer these questions already or I'll feel pretty stupid.
B
ok... this might sounds stupid but its a mistake i made when i did my swap... did you paint the valve cover... if you did... and you bolted the engine ground back on... you wont get a good enough ground unless you sand the area you painted.. .the area you bolt your ground too... seems stupid but it will cause problems... my engine just cranked and cranked, didnt want to fire... just something you should check
I just had the same problem two days ago... either your timing pulley that mounts on the crankshaft spun around like 180 degrees, or your timing belt jumped. If you go to your intake manifold, pull the pipe off and crank it and its blowing air out of it, thats what happened, and your probably going to need to replace the timing wheel, and possibly the camshaft, if the key was actually spun.. if your timing wheel is good, then check your valves, and check your timing belt.. make sure the timing wheel on the cam shaft is TDC, which will be TDC if the word up is up and there should be two lines on either side that will run parallel with your head, and then there will be another line near the bottom that will line up with a piece of plastic.. Then look down to your crank pulley and there should be a set of two || lines on the pulley and one line that lines up with a line on the plastic timing belt cover.. if everything lines up, your timing is right, then maybe your injectors are clogged?? other than that i have no idea whats wrong.
In my case two days ago, the timing pulley on the camshaft spun and broke the key, so what i did was just replace the whole head. While the head was off, I bored the cylinders out too. I pretty much rebuilt the whole engine. Now that its back together, im piecing a turbo together for it. Fun stuff
In my case two days ago, the timing pulley on the camshaft spun and broke the key, so what i did was just replace the whole head. While the head was off, I bored the cylinders out too. I pretty much rebuilt the whole engine. Now that its back together, im piecing a turbo together for it. Fun stuff
I cannot believe this thread is still alive. This is just depressing.
I'm having the same problem with my mini me. This hasn't worked for me but I know other people who it worked for....try clamping the fuel lines to the fuel rail. I don't know if it's necessary to clamp the line flowing OUT from the rail with excess gas, but clamp it anyways. Use vise grips or a C-clamp, just make sure you put a towel around the hose so you don't cut or damage it with the clamp. Cuz life > death. Try starting the engine that way and if it starts up, get out of the car and unclamp the hoses! Experiment with differing tightnesses on the hoses.
LMK if you have any results!! And other ppl, please make some suggestions on my help thread. I need it.
Also, does anyone know how to adjust the idle? I've heard that that will solve the flooded enginge problem too.
I'm having the same problem with my mini me. This hasn't worked for me but I know other people who it worked for....try clamping the fuel lines to the fuel rail. I don't know if it's necessary to clamp the line flowing OUT from the rail with excess gas, but clamp it anyways. Use vise grips or a C-clamp, just make sure you put a towel around the hose so you don't cut or damage it with the clamp. Cuz life > death. Try starting the engine that way and if it starts up, get out of the car and unclamp the hoses! Experiment with differing tightnesses on the hoses.
LMK if you have any results!! And other ppl, please make some suggestions on my help thread. I need it.
Also, does anyone know how to adjust the idle? I've heard that that will solve the flooded enginge problem too.
to adjust the idle, theres 2 little 12mm nuts on the throttle cable. Turn the one closest to the throttle toward the firewall to idle it down, away from the firewall to idle it up. You might want to use loc tite or something similar once youve found the idle you want so that the nut does not slip over time.
Oh...so this is just the throttle cable? Shouldn't that be completely closed unless you're pushing the gas pedal?\\ Forgiven // said:
well it can't be COMPLETELY closed, or it wouldnt let any air in for the car to run at idle, but it should be mostly closed yes.
Don't forget about the idle adjust nut located on the throttle body. That can adjust idle too. I'd actually prefer that method because by opening the throttle plate through cable adjustment, you risk some other problems. Say you adjust your TPS for some reason, it's going to be set to .5v when in reality the throttle is part-way open, so when the throttle gets to 100% open, the TPS will not see it . . . not sure if I explained that right but do you get it?\\ Forgiven // said:
B
Totally forgot about that man, thanks for catching me. ^^^ listen to this guy.
Hi...
I've set the cam pulley at TDC and here's what I found (as shown in the photo). Does this look like the crankshaft is not at TDC? Does the engine look like it's out of time? Can any one please confirm and also tell me how to reset the timing? Thanks in advance for all your help.
I've set the cam pulley at TDC and here's what I found (as shown in the photo). Does this look like the crankshaft is not at TDC? Does the engine look like it's out of time? Can any one please confirm and also tell me how to reset the timing? Thanks in advance for all your help.
if it is TDC, stick a small screw driver, or straw or something that can hit the piston down the spark plug hole, and when you hand roll the engine over, the piston will reach the top of the cylinder. TDC is when the piston reaches the top of the cylinder. If your engine is TDC, the UP word on the timing wheel on the head will be straight up, and there will be two - - that line up where the valve cover mounts on the head. and you already know about the bottom ||| | are on the crank pulley is, so when its TDC, check all of your marks, and if they are off, then that means your timing is off.
im not sure what engine you have, and i dont really feel like going to page 1, but i have a D15b7. I think the D15b7 and B15b8 both have the same timing method, but if you have a different engine let me know and i'll post some of the civic manual pages on where the TDC marks are on different engines,
good luck
Brandon
im not sure what engine you have, and i dont really feel like going to page 1, but i have a D15b7. I think the D15b7 and B15b8 both have the same timing method, but if you have a different engine let me know and i'll post some of the civic manual pages on where the TDC marks are on different engines,
good luck
Brandon