man i am lagging on doing mines. i am using stinger 4ga hpm wires and for the terminal rings im using stinger platinum terminal rings. yesturday i did all my measurements, so hopefully i dont forget about it again and i get it done by the weekend and i'll take some pictures and post up the exact measurements i use. i think i measured about 10 feet only.
That looks good, I would use only one bolt for the intake manifold, make sure the wire that goes to the neg battery is on the bottom.Mahlmann said:This is how I did it today. 6 ga from Home Depot. 40 cents a foot. Woot woot. (Not to scale)If i did any s**t wrong lemme know... I only touched the chassis once, and that was when it was comming off the battree...
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bad6as redo your wires like Mahlmann!
green said:
Question is the reason behind the neg battery being on the bottom is to make sure it's grounded for sure, as oppose to stacking it on top?
Also should you use one bolt instead of two on the manifold, so as to not break up the chain. I think I see your logic behind that Green, let me know if I'm right.
yeah, I am no way a electrical engineer, or an expert on grounding an engine, but I think back to 8th grade or something and "the path of least resistance" comes to mind. The reason I would use one bolt on the intake manifold is that it seems that the current from your valve cover and alternator will travel to your first bolt, then travel through your IM and then to neg battery. So! why not cut out that step, use one bolt, and send it straight to neg battery ground. The reason for stacking the wires is that the current will flow directly from valvecover ->alternator->IM->neg battery ground. instead of the possibility of traveling throughout the IM first.
This is all theory, but it seems semi logical to me. Please correct me if I'm wrong! Hope this helps everyone!
This is all theory, but it seems semi logical to me. Please correct me if I'm wrong! Hope this helps everyone!
Why the powersteering pump, heck why the manifold. maybe I'm missing the point, but what's the benefit of using those as grounding points when they're not electrical like the starter, alt, etc.
Just a curious question, but good pic
Just a curious question, but good pic
Oh I hope I didn't sound like I was criticizing you, I'm just a lil confused myself! Thought I'd clear that up, just incase you thought I was attacking your idea.
so wuts the point of the grounding of the intake manifold??? and i'm using 4 gauge for battery to chassis and 8 gauge for the rest? o and wut size ring terminal would i use for the 8 gauge? 1/4 or 5/16? and give a size for the 4 gauge too!! another thing is where do i ground on the alternator on top right?Mahlmann said:This is how I did it today. 6 ga from Home Depot. 40 cents a foot. Woot woot. (Not to scale)
This is speculation, but I found in research that built up current in your Intake Manifold restricts (in a small way) how the mechanisms function. Grounding the IM is supposed to smoothen out your accleration. I'm trying to find the website where it "explains" it all, lineage grounding kit is the product, that's where Anekin007 got the diagram I posted earlier. I don't have time to find the site, but it explains why each part of the engine should be grounded, and the benefits of doing so. happy searching!
** edit ** I found the website:
http://www.lineagemotorsport.com/page2.html
It explains some of the benefits from grounding certain parts of the engine.
** edit ** I found the website:
http://www.lineagemotorsport.com/page2.html
It explains some of the benefits from grounding certain parts of the engine.
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