95eghatchfrom54
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Yea I'm national guard....been in 6 years 2 tours and doing another 6 years.
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- Thread starter 95eghatchfrom54
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word.
well i know its a long way off but once im in OR, we' might have to hang and go to an wheelin event
95eghatchfrom54
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For sure might be a ways down the road but I'll still be in oregon.
welcome man
95eghatchfrom54
New Member
Thanks for the welcome.....when I look at my hatch I see the potential she has. I can't wait to have her done and I'll post a build thread on here once I get started.
ImportFan1
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welcome to the club, nice clean start, looks like the car is in great shape to begin with. easy project if its just to make it your DD. good luck.
95eghatchfrom54
New Member
Thanks it's in alright shape.....need to redo the interior though new carpet and plastics. Other then that it's all good....also gotta get the duckbill redone the clear coats coming off blah
yeah thats what the story on mine was, most of the front plastics had holes in it from things being mounted on it, and the rear plastics were beat to hell, they even cut out the rear seat belts at the reel, for what reason idk, but mine was a curier car, and thats why its miles are INSANE
95eghatchfrom54
New Member
Gotta hate that s**t.....my buddy just got ahold of me saying 500 to spray my car and that's including jams..but I've gotta pay for the paint and what not. Now he's trying to talk me into just boosting my b7 on 6 pounds and saving up for a better motor down the road. Any thoughts from anybody. also 95CTR how hard was it for you to find the plastics for the rear?
well honestly i wouldnt worry about painting it just yet, lol drive it enjoy it and get use to it first, because for 200 bucks more, you could get the same thing done at macco and it have a warrenty. (no offense to your buddy)
because when i end up painting mine, im doing it myself. but im useing industrial grade tractor paint.
as far as boosting the B7 i wouldnt bother, cause if your anything like the rest of us, youll like to get in boost a good bit, which is gong to kill your gas milage. but in teh end its your car and your money.
as for the rear plastics, theres a junk yard near me that has two hatchs, both have grey interior, so sense mine needs rear plastics and rear seat/seatbelts, im ganna get with that guy about them once i have some cash. cause the only things im using ar the large 1/4 plastics, i dont car about the trunk area, and i might snag the door panels,
only thing i can say is search the local yards / buy a wrecked parts car at auction / or buy them new. the best place i have found as far as good prices on OEM parts is ( Hondapartsdeals.com ) im just ganna get the plastics from this junk yard so thath people in teh rear have somewere comfortable to sit but in the end my full interior is going to be new,
also, dont know what your money situation is looking like but there is a guy near portland with a full JDM gathers interior for a grand, look it up on craigslist if your intrested in that.
95eghatchfrom54
New Member
We don't have a macco here and anybody paint shop around here is gonna charge over 1500 for a paint job. It's pretty stupid and yeah I'd be boosting all the time so I'm just thinkin a stock rebuild and I'll be happy. For some reason the b7 I have is beast. My buddy used to have it in a hatch and it kept up with some cars here in town no problem. But my big deal is gas mileage because I'm tired of gas prices. So if I do the paint job and rebuild rims lips and exhaust I'm looking around 1500 for everything. Plus then I've got to get my stereo system installed and have the custom box built into the hatch. I just can't wait to get it done to actually drive the car.
just do it a step at the time, along with buy all the parts, and stuff thath you want and install it all at once after its painted.
and with painting it just remember, the better job you do on prep the better the finished product will look.
and i know what you mean i got a guy (actually the one that lives up near you) has a 95 EX automatic that is BONE STOCK, and it hangs with LS tegs that have a few bolt ons, and it actually walks on a few of them by a couple of cars.
and with painting it just remember, the better job you do on prep the better the finished product will look.
and i know what you mean i got a guy (actually the one that lives up near you) has a 95 EX automatic that is BONE STOCK, and it hangs with LS tegs that have a few bolt ons, and it actually walks on a few of them by a couple of cars.
95eghatchfrom54
New Member
Yeah def not lookin to make my hatch a runner unless by some chance I can into some big cash. Like I said I'm just looking for good gas mileage and clean lookin. I don't see the point of goin all out crazy no more. I'm 26 married and got a kid. Don't need trouble and don't need to die being stupid in a car!
lol yeah im 24 and married, and ive had my share of stupid stunts, alomst died cause one,
lol i know everyone has their own thing but if youd be up for hearing it id give you the run down of how id do your car, if you were a customer coming to me for work.
95eghatchfrom54
New Member
Hey I'm always open to ideas so run down all ya want lol.
well if you are just wanting a clean solid reliable DD there are 3 aspects to remember on the car, cheap, fast and reliable, you can pick two but not all the (i.e. if its cheap+fast= not reliable. . .fast+eliable= not cheap.... you get the idea)
so heres what you can do.. take and do a clean well done rebuild of the B7 that youve got. and make sure that the trans gets a good flush before you install it and the new motor together. (this is just so everything is fresh and clean sense you are starting your clock, i.e. milage logging all over from 000000.0) in terms of the engine...
the critical time in engine break in is the first 20-30 miles, i would break the motor in hard because this allows for proper wearing of the rings so that they seal properly (which inturn yeilds better HP/TQ on your motor stock for stock) the break in would be, once everything is installed and ready to go, start the car up, let it fully warm up (about 10 minutes in decent weather maybe a little more if its cold out) then just find a country or open ish road were you can use from 20% to about 85-90% of your engines rpm range, (with it being a B7 im ganna guess from about 1500-4800rpms, do this is 2nd or 3rd gear so that you can apply full load on the motor (100% throttle) with out massively disregaurding the speed limit,
and you just do this 3-5 times, each time letting the engine get full throttle then letting it engine break (NO FOOT BREAK) back down to about the 1500rpm range (short version, warm it up and give it hell and let it slow its self down 3-5 times in 2nd or 3rd gear) then do the same thing in the next gear up from the one you just used from 1500-max rpm (dont bounce on the rev limiter, just take it to just before it) and do this 3-5 times the same way as before.....
by this time you should have done and good bit of driving around, so now its time to go change your oil, and filter, (this gets all the tiny metal bits that you just made out of your motor) I would recomend NOT to use synthetic untill after your first 500 miles, (its TOO slipery and will stop the break in of the rings)
and thats your ngine being broke in for a long life of reliable use.
AS for your suspension. for comfort, and just a clean look closing off that gp above your tires is probably what your want right? well heres whats up, if you do any sort of spirted driving go ahead and get a good coil-sleeve+shock combo. (tokikos+sleeves or Koni+sleeves)
if your just looking to drop it a little and still have plenty of comfort for you the wife and the baby, then just get a set of eibach springs and KYB GR2's (i ran that set up on an old celica i had with some suspension techniques sway bars and LOVEd it for my daily. camber kits, you dont really need them,
and while im talking about sway bars, our cars didnt come with them (or even the holes for them for that matter) so find either a 94-01 Integra and get the hubs and front and rear LCA's and do the integra hub swap and use the intgra sway bars, or find a EX or DX and yank the LCA's and sways off one of those
and just run the stock sway bars.
pick you out an exhaust that you like the look of and you know that you (and probably the baby) can live with while in the car driving around. then the sound system is all up to you (im not a big sound guy, as long as i have music im happy) the interior is also all your thing sense your the one that has to sit in it and drive.
as far as paint goes, just remember that the quality of the final product is only as good as the prep and materials that go into it (as well as doing it correctly) and if you know that your going to be doing the jams, just wait till you have all the parts that your wanting to put on, then you gut the engine bay, pull off anything that you are replacing, mask everything off that you dont want paint to get on then paint the bay jams and car all at once..allow it to properly cure (this depends on climate and what paint you use and a number of other variables) then put it all back together with all your new patrs
and then last but not least we have exterior add ons, just pick you a set of wheels you like in the saze you like that suit your tastes (and the new / color of the car)
as far as my car personally will go, im just doing a front lip, mud flaps, duck bill, and projector retro fit and mine is finished (besides putting in all new interior)
long story short to each their own , just do what you do, the way you like it.
btw sorry for the book i just wrote.
95eghatchfrom54
New Member
It's all good on the book you just wrote....but like you said to each their own and all I'm gonna be goin for is tasteful mod's. But thanks for you input on the whole deal. It's always to good to hear other people opinion and thoughts.
Cause I mean, I don't want anything flashy cause it draws to much attention, I just want a clean well balanced car that I can have fun in