Does it look like there's any chance that the Accord IACV would fit on your B16?OK well i tested the accord it read 23 ohms.
The IACV's are way different the accords is on the front of the IM and looks alot different. Are IACV expensive? I cant seem to find one online for my engine..... is there an American engine that uses the same IACV?Does it look like there's any chance that the Accord IACV would fit on your B16?
There's only one more test that I would suggest that you do on the B16 IACV itself. Measure resistance to body ground from each of the two terminals. These tests are looking for a short inside the IACV.
But based on your tests, I think the B16 IACV may be the problem.
Do you have a local junk yard to scout?The IACV's are way different the accords is on the front of the IM and looks alot different. Are IACV expensive? I cant seem to find one online for my engine..... is there an American engine that uses the same IACV?
Yes i do, and i checked summit they have one for $200 but o well if it fixes my problem i dont care. The only ones that will fit my car are the Del sol si vtec ones so ya hard find... I will let you know how the part goes when i get the money to buy it. Thanks for all your help though.Do you have a local junk yard to scout?
I think the IACV resistance is out of spec, but I'd hate to see you spend $200 and it not fix the problem. Post a WTB ad for the IACV on several Civic forums. You might also want to ask Del Sol owners to test the resistance of their known good IACVs and post the numbers.Yes i do, and i checked summit they have one for $200 but o well if it fixes my problem i dont care. The only ones that will fit my car are the Del sol si vtec ones so ya hard find... I will let you know how the part goes when i get the money to buy it. Thanks for all your help though.
There's only one more test that I would suggest that you do on the B16 IACV itself. Measure resistance to body ground from each of the two terminals. These tests are looking for a short inside the IACV.
Well that might be my next option at this point cause the IACV didnt work i got one from the wrecking yard thank god.Everything described is the same thing that my buddy's B16 did. We literally tried everything, IACV's, etc. It ended up being the TPS and TB as a whole, now it's fine.
The old one 3.1 and the new one 7.9 it goes steady for a short while then it slowly starts to get shitty then gets really shiitty Its ok though thanks for the help anyways my mom works for honda and is going to ask one of the tech's if he will help me with it next weekend.What's the resistance of the junk yard IACV? Did you check this and the original IACV for a short while they are installed?
The initial resistance reading seems good, but are you saying the reading fluctuates? If so, is this due to you having difficulty holding the meter probes steady on the IACV terminals?The old one 3.1 and the new one 7.9 it goes steady for a short while then it slowly starts to get shitty then gets really shiitty
No the idle still roams with the new one it is better then before it stays stead alot more but it still roams every now and then i drove it like 20 miles to make sure it was still roaming it was dry out today.The initial resistance reading seems good, but are you saying the reading fluctuates? If so, is this due to you having difficulty holding the meter probes steady on the IACV terminals?
Did you check for a short as I mentioned earlier?
No i did not check the resistance for a short. I have the newer IACV though and the resistance is good you want me to check it for a short anyway?You are giving new information but you are not answering the questions.
For the sake of completion, I'd check both for a short. Note that checking for a short requires that the IACV be installed on the engine. And did the resistance readings fluctuate or were they steady?No i did not check the resistance for a short. I have the newer IACV though and the resistance is good you want me to check it for a short anyway?
No it didnt fluctuate it was steady was talking about idle. So i need to have it plugged in too? or just bolted to the engine?For the sake of completion, I'd check both for a short. Note that checking for a short requires that the IACV be installed on the engine. And did the resistance readings fluctuate or were they steady?
And if you need to return to the junk yard for another replacement IACV, bring your multimeter with you so that you can check resistance and for shorts before you buy it and bring it home.
Actually, you can test for short without the IACV installed. Touch one meter probe to one plug terminal and the other to the metal surface of the IACV. Then do the same test on the other plug terminal. If you read 100 Ohms resistance or less, then there is a short.No it didnt fluctuate it was steady was talking about idle. So i need to have it plugged in too? or just bolted to the engine?
OK i will do that stuff, and yes i sprayed brake cleaner over the hoses and gasket areas to check for leaks. The IACV was surprisingly nice, it was not that dirty but to anwser your question the gasket was good on it.Actually, you can test for short without the IACV installed. Touch one meter probe to one plug terminal and the other to the metal surface of the IACV. Then do the same test on the other plug terminal. If you read 100 Ohms resistance or less, then there is a short.
If the recent replacement IACV does not have a short, then once again put your finger over the FITV or IACV port in the throttle body to see whether blocking the port affects the idle speed. Post the results. These tests are done with the engine fully warmed up when the idle problem is happening.
When you installed the replacement IACV, did you inspect the rubber gasket? Is it possible that the gasket is bad and leaking?
Have you ever removed the throttle body or intake manifold? Have you carefully checked for leaking vacuum hoses?
Ok well im guessing you were talking about testing the connector that plugs into the IACV and when i test that each one is reading around the 50's for resistance from each terminal to the IACV ground. If you were talking about the IACV Sensors 2 forks that the connector plugs into those dont get any resistance when i touch one and ground with the IACV surface.Actually, you can test for short without the IACV installed. Touch one meter probe to one plug terminal and the other to the metal surface of the IACV. Then do the same test on the other plug terminal. If you read 100 Ohms resistance or less, then there is a short.
If the recent replacement IACV does not have a short, then once again put your finger over the FITV or IACV port in the throttle body to see whether blocking the port affects the idle speed. Post the results. These tests are done with the engine fully warmed up when the idle problem is happening.
When you installed the replacement IACV, did you inspect the rubber gasket? Is it possible that the gasket is bad and leaking?
Have you ever removed the throttle body or intake manifold? Have you carefully checked for leaking vacuum hoses?