reverse lights don't turn on

civic209

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how do you remove the back up light switch? does it just pull out? counterclockwise? maybe need a wrench? it says remove switch but it does look like you need a wrench...
 


Robin...

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Damn RonJ should get paid...:thumbs up
 

RonJ

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how do you remove the back up light switch? does it just pull out? counterclockwise? maybe need a wrench? it says remove switch but it does look like you need a wrench...
I think it just pulls out or unscrews (normal threads).
 


civic209

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oooh ok well i tried but it wont budge but it does look like theres a wrench needed but um anyways...dad says if you connect the two wires on top of the switch the back up lights should go on...they do not so does this mean the switch is bad?
 

RonJ

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oooh ok well i tried but it wont budge but it does look like theres a wrench needed but um anyways...dad says if you connect the two wires on top of the switch the back up lights should go on...they do not so does this mean the switch is bad?
Did you check whether dash fuse 19 is blown?

If you unplug the switch connector, jump the Yel wire to the Grn/Blk wire in the wire harness connector, and turn the key to ON(II), then the back up light should turn on.
 

civic209

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Did you check whether dash fuse 19 is blown?

If you unplug the switch connector, jump the Yel wire to the Grn/Blk wire in the wire harness connector, and turn the key to ON(II), then the back up light should turn on.
fuse 19 is not blown and i jumped the two and lights did not turn on. So this suggests a problem with the ground? i also checked bulbs they seemed fine like new
 

RonJ

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fuse 19 is not blown and i jumped the two and lights did not turn on. So this suggests a problem with the ground? i also checked bulbs they seemed fine like new
How did you test fuse 19? Visual inspection does not catch all blown fuses.

Also use a multimeter to check whether the Yel wire at the plug has battery voltage with the key in ON(II).

If the ground connection were bad, other rear lights also would not work.
 

civic209

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How did you test fuse 19? Visual inspection does not catch all blown fuses.

Also use a multimeter to check whether the Yel wire at the plug has battery voltage with the key in ON(II).

If the ground connection were bad, other rear lights also would not work.
i have this fuse checking light thingy that came with a set of fuses i bought a while ago and light went on when it was tested.

Multimeter showed no voltage on the yellow wire nor the connector part of the yellow wire so connector is not the problem.

All 5 Brake lights and both turn lights also turn on.

so where does the yellow wire begin? on the ecu?
 

RonJ

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i have this fuse checking light thingy that came with a set of fuses i bought a while ago and light went on when it was tested.

Multimeter showed no voltage on the yellow wire nor the connector part of the yellow wire so connector is not the problem.

All 5 Brake lights and both turn lights also turn on.

so where does the yellow wire begin? on the ecu?
Check for voltage at both test tabs of fuse 19.
 

civic209

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Check for voltage at both test tabs of fuse 19.

when upper connector for the fuse 19 is tested with a metal part of the car (back where the foglight wiring comes in) it reads 11.89 and lower pin of fuse 19 reads no voltage
 

RonJ

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Fuse 19 is blown.

Click the Fuses link in my signature to learn how to test fuses.
 

civic209

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Fuse 19 is blown.

Click the Fuses link in my signature to learn how to test fuses.
fuse number 19 has been replaced...problem persists...reverse lights will not go on.

maybe this has something to do with the automatic to manual conversion?
 

civic209

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ooooh ok gotcha ;) :smackself
so if the fuse is blown what is needed to fix it? You are talking about the box itself(connector number 19) not the actual 7.5 amp fuse right?( i did replace the 7.5 amp fuse with a new one)

when you told me to test the fuse tabs of fuse number 19 i did not test the actual 7.5 amp fuse i tested the connector for fuse number 19 on the box with the 7.5amp fuse pulled out...
 

RonJ

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ooooh ok gotcha ;) :smackself
so if the fuse is blown what is needed to fix it? You are talking about the box itself(connector number 19) not the actual 7.5 amp fuse right?
It could be a fuse box problem, but first test both top metal fuse tabs for voltage as describe at the link.
 

civic209

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It could be a fuse box problem, but first test both top metal fuse tabs for voltage as describe at the link.
when tested with the voltage meter grounded to metal part it showed voltage on both ends of fuse(new fuse)
 

RonJ

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when tested with the voltage meter grounded to metal part it showed voltage on both ends of fuse(new fuse)
And yet there's no voltage at the Yel wire terminal of the switch connector, right? If so, there's an open in the circuit/wire between fuse 19 and the switch connector. This could be caused by a bad dash fuse box or a broken Yel/Red-Yel wire.
 

civic209

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And yet there's no voltage at the Yel wire terminal of the switch connector, right? If so, there's an open in the circuit/wire between fuse 19 and the switch connector. This could be caused by a bad dash fuse box or a broken Yel/Red-Yel wire.
correct still no voltage at yellow wire on the connector. But can you tell me where does this yellow/red-yellow wire(s) start at? after the fuse box? So inspecting entire harness is going to have to be it then huh?
 

civic209

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And yet there's no voltage at the Yel wire terminal of the switch connector, right? If so, there's an open in the circuit/wire between fuse 19 and the switch connector. This could be caused by a bad dash fuse box or a broken Yel/Red-Yel wire.
the cruise control also does not work and the fuse is working properly, so maybe it is a bad dash fuse box?
 


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