Stock bottom end on B20/vtec
- Thread starter Rex_89
- Start date
it will be fine. example: my bro has a b20v setup w/ only arp rod bolts, arp head studs, gsr crank girdle, gsr head, and he revs to 9k. so i think your covered to 8k.
No, unless you've got the bottom end built.
my statement still stands.
I've reliably ran my stock bottom b20v up to 7500 rpms daily. Its definatly one of the most reliable motors ive ever built. I love it everytime i start it up, such a great motor.
The key is to not leave any stones unturned or unthought about when building. Its a delicate process swapping everything over perfectly, but knowledge is power, and do your research.
You can PM me with any questions you have about the actual build. Ive done them with my own hands.
The key is to not leave any stones unturned or unthought about when building. Its a delicate process swapping everything over perfectly, but knowledge is power, and do your research.
You can PM me with any questions you have about the actual build. Ive done them with my own hands.
For it to last you need rods, pistons, and rodbolts. B20's are known very well for letting go.jason_guy_yeah said:
Check out b20vtec.com.
No they arent. It's idiot builders who spread misinformation throughout the web.Phantom Civic said:
Well my brother also has a b20vtec and he has a bottom end and takes it to about 7500. He said If I wanted to be safe I could probably shapien (sp) the rods and get new rod bolts, but other then that it should be fine. Just wanted to see what some other people thought. For those of you that say I "need" to build it, have you experienced this before or is it just off word of mouth? Im actually looking for people who have done this and been running it for a while to see what they think.
I am not speaking from experience but "knowledge". The reason I say this is because I was SERIOUSLY thinking about get a ls/vtec/b20/vtec, before I got my gsr. I have done hours of research and this is what I have found. If you don't want to spend alot then I say get some rod bolts and don't take it past 7-7.5, but thats just me.
Sure some of you have done it and been successful and some of you haven't been so fortunate. This is my opion and I'm just trying to help.
Proceed with the topic.
Sure some of you have done it and been successful and some of you haven't been so fortunate. This is my opion and I'm just trying to help.
Proceed with the topic.
a b20 is a trimed down version of the b18. To make that extra .2 liters, they bored out the cylinders. Which means more stress and wear on the crank bearings. Sure, the b20 can handle the 7,5XX rpms but, how long?
Not only that but the cylinders are symesed (sp).jason_guy_yeah said:
arp rod bolts are only $45. just buy em
Uh, revving a stock b20 to 7500 is retarded. It's going to shorten the life of the motor and you aren't making any power past redline anyway...sigh. Just because you slap a b16 head on doesn't mean you will be making power to 8k, so there would be no point.
Heres a dyno of a b20/vtec with a b16 head. The block is stock, but it's got a lot of mods:
AEM Short Ram Intake, DC 4-1 Header, RS-R Header-Back Exhaust, Stock B20 Bottom, PURE Tuning Spec B Cylinder Head, Stock B16A Head Internals /Cams / Intake Manifold / TB, Hondata P28 -PURE TUNED
As you can see, it's pointless to rev past 7000.
AEM Short Ram Intake, DC 4-1 Header, RS-R Header-Back Exhaust, Stock B20 Bottom, PURE Tuning Spec B Cylinder Head, Stock B16A Head Internals /Cams / Intake Manifold / TB, Hondata P28 -PURE TUNED
As you can see, it's pointless to rev past 7000.
I called up a local shop who is known for doing some good work. They brought about 3-4 crxs to the track earlier this year when I was there and they were runnin 11s and 12s. There fastest crx runs an 11.3 i think. As far as bottom end they suggested that I at least do rod bolts and pistons if Im choosing to go with ITR cams. Also probably shopeen the rods. I guess that sounds like the road im going to try and take. Just expensive, probably take me longer then I thought.
If you want good long term resolutes i suggest you just hold off and build the bottom end. If you want boost sleeve with some lower comp. slugs and eagle rods with all the ARP hardware you want. And if you just want a DD/NA build you COULD leave out the the sleeves but you are dealing with a block with a horrible Rod:Stroke Ratio so the more you can afford to do the better off you are in the long run. And to see what your Red line will be guessing is not best, see where your power curve drops off.
This is a quote I got from a local shop. This is if I buy all these parts through them except the ECU because I already have one. And have them put it all together so I go drive home in a B20vtec.
Rod bolts = $40
Head Gasket = $50 - $80
Jumper Harness = $130
B16 to B20 kit = $100
GSR Belt = $50
GSR Water Pump = $120
GSR Oil Pump = $120
Pistons = $350 + $120 installation
Valves resurfaced and an angle job = $200
310 injectors = $200
Labor = $1,000.
Total = 2,480 - 2,510
And thats not including tuning. Or other parts like piston rings, fuel pressure regulator, or if I want adjustable cam gears.
Does that seem a little expensive?
Rod bolts = $40
Head Gasket = $50 - $80
Jumper Harness = $130
B16 to B20 kit = $100
GSR Belt = $50
GSR Water Pump = $120
GSR Oil Pump = $120
Pistons = $350 + $120 installation
Valves resurfaced and an angle job = $200
310 injectors = $200
Labor = $1,000.
Total = 2,480 - 2,510
And thats not including tuning. Or other parts like piston rings, fuel pressure regulator, or if I want adjustable cam gears.
Does that seem a little expensive?