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Stock bottom end on B20/vtec

Discussion in 'Engine Tech / Drivetrain' started by Rex_89, Feb 28, 2007.



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  1. Rex_89

    Rex_89 New Member Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    Will it be okay to run a stock bottom end on a B20/vtec. The reason why I question is because right now with my B20 I only rev to about 6000 rpm and if I get a B16 head Im gonna wanna take it to 8000 rpm. Will this hurt the block or can it hold?
     
  2. Steven.

    Steven. Formally Green 91 Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member 10+ Year Member

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    i wouldent rev any further then the stock B20 redline.
     
  3. xx90vtecxx

    xx90vtecxx sLeEpErS.cOm Registered VIP 5+ Year Member 10+ Year Member

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    it will be fine. example: my bro has a b20v setup w/ only arp rod bolts, arp head studs, gsr crank girdle, gsr head, and he revs to 9k. so i think your covered to 8k.
     
  4. jason_guy_yeah

    jason_guy_yeah New Member Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    No, unless you've got the bottom end built.
     
  5. xx90vtecxx

    xx90vtecxx sLeEpErS.cOm Registered VIP 5+ Year Member 10+ Year Member

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    my statement still stands.
     
  6. vandynamics

    vandynamics New Member Registered VIP 5+ Year Member 10+ Year Member

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    I've reliably ran my stock bottom b20v up to 7500 rpms daily. Its definatly one of the most reliable motors ive ever built. I love it everytime i start it up, such a great motor.

    The key is to not leave any stones unturned or unthought about when building. Its a delicate process swapping everything over perfectly, but knowledge is power, and do your research.

    You can PM me with any questions you have about the actual build. Ive done them with my own hands.
     
  7. Phantom Civic

    Phantom Civic Never Satisfied Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    For it to last you need rods, pistons, and rodbolts. B20's are known very well for letting go.

    Check out b20vtec.com.
     
  8. vandynamics

    vandynamics New Member Registered VIP 5+ Year Member 10+ Year Member

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    No they arent. It's idiot builders who spread misinformation throughout the web. :word:
     
  9. Rex_89

    Rex_89 New Member Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    Well my brother also has a b20vtec and he has a bottom end and takes it to about 7500. He said If I wanted to be safe I could probably shapien (sp) the rods and get new rod bolts, but other then that it should be fine. Just wanted to see what some other people thought. For those of you that say I "need" to build it, have you experienced this before or is it just off word of mouth? Im actually looking for people who have done this and been running it for a while to see what they think.
     
  10. Phantom Civic

    Phantom Civic Never Satisfied Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    I am not speaking from experience but "knowledge". The reason I say this is because I was SERIOUSLY thinking about get a ls/vtec/b20/vtec, before I got my gsr. I have done hours of research and this is what I have found. If you don't want to spend alot then I say get some rod bolts and don't take it past 7-7.5, but thats just me.

    Sure some of you have done it and been successful and some of you haven't been so fortunate. This is my opion and I'm just trying to help. ;)

    Proceed with the topic.
     
  11. Rex_89

    Rex_89 New Member Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    Thanks bro for the advise. Yea thats exactly what I was thinking. The rod bolts and taking it to only 7500. So thanks for confirming that. And yea, I might just go ahead and get pistons, im not sure yet. But thanks guys.
     
  12. jason_guy_yeah

    jason_guy_yeah New Member Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    a b20 is a trimed down version of the b18. To make that extra .2 liters, they bored out the cylinders. Which means more stress and wear on the crank bearings. Sure, the b20 can handle the 7,5XX rpms but, how long?
     
  13. Phantom Civic

    Phantom Civic Never Satisfied Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    Not only that but the cylinders are symesed (sp).
     
  14. Rex_89

    Rex_89 New Member Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    What about putting in a GSR crank shaft. I was told it would be better then the stock B20 one.
     
  15. xx90vtecxx

    xx90vtecxx sLeEpErS.cOm Registered VIP 5+ Year Member 10+ Year Member

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    arp rod bolts are only $45. just buy em
     
  16. Going-West

    Going-West Tree people on my radio Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member 10+ Year Member

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    Uh, revving a stock b20 to 7500 is retarded. It's going to shorten the life of the motor and you aren't making any power past redline anyway...sigh. Just because you slap a b16 head on doesn't mean you will be making power to 8k, so there would be no point.
     
  17. Going-West

    Going-West Tree people on my radio Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member 10+ Year Member

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    Heres a dyno of a b20/vtec with a b16 head. The block is stock, but it's got a lot of mods:
    AEM Short Ram Intake, DC 4-1 Header, RS-R Header-Back Exhaust, Stock B20 Bottom, PURE Tuning Spec B Cylinder Head, Stock B16A Head Internals /Cams / Intake Manifold / TB, Hondata P28 -PURE TUNED

    [​IMG]

    As you can see, it's pointless to rev past 7000.
     
  18. Rex_89

    Rex_89 New Member Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    I called up a local shop who is known for doing some good work. They brought about 3-4 crxs to the track earlier this year when I was there and they were runnin 11s and 12s. There fastest crx runs an 11.3 i think. As far as bottom end they suggested that I at least do rod bolts and pistons if Im choosing to go with ITR cams. Also probably shopeen the rods. I guess that sounds like the road im going to try and take. Just expensive, probably take me longer then I thought.
     
  19. FRODO

    FRODO New Member Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member 10+ Year Member

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    If you want good long term resolutes i suggest you just hold off and build the bottom end. If you want boost sleeve with some lower comp. slugs and eagle rods with all the ARP hardware you want. And if you just want a DD/NA build you COULD leave out the the sleeves but you are dealing with a block with a horrible Rod:Stroke Ratio so the more you can afford to do the better off you are in the long run. And to see what your Red line will be guessing is not best, see where your power curve drops off.
     
  20. Rex_89

    Rex_89 New Member Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    This is a quote I got from a local shop. This is if I buy all these parts through them except the ECU because I already have one. And have them put it all together so I go drive home in a B20vtec.

    Rod bolts = $40
    Head Gasket = $50 - $80
    Jumper Harness = $130
    B16 to B20 kit = $100
    GSR Belt = $50
    GSR Water Pump = $120
    GSR Oil Pump = $120
    Pistons = $350 + $120 installation
    Valves resurfaced and an angle job = $200
    310 injectors = $200

    Labor = $1,000.

    Total = 2,480 - 2,510

    And thats not including tuning. Or other parts like piston rings, fuel pressure regulator, or if I want adjustable cam gears.

    Does that seem a little expensive?
     


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