00 Civic crank, no start after catastrophic distributor failure

MattP

New Member
I have a 2000 Honda Civic EX that stopped unexpectedly on the highway. After getting it home I identified that the car cranks but will not start. I did some cursory googling and watched some videos on Youtube which lead me to opening the distributor cap. I found that the distributor experienced a catastrophic failure. The screw holding the rotor in place had fallen out and worn through a section of the cover plate and may have caused other damage, although it wasn't visible to me.

I performed a spark test based on a video by EricTheCarGuy on Youtube and neither the spark plugs nor the ignition coil spark. I decided with the scope of the damage being unclear, replaced the distributor on the car, cautious to keep everything aligned just as the old distributor was.

With the new distributor on, the car still cranks, but does not start. My assumption is that electricity is not getting to the distributor, so I should check the entire chain to make sure there's continuity. I've been following the instructions on a series of posts here between RonJ, XpL0d3r, and Jason03c where Jason03c appeared to be having a similar issue. I've been testing the elements of the electronics in the manner outlined in those posts, and I've been able to confirm voltage on fuse 9 in the dash (by connecting my multimeter to the exposed testing pin, then ground).

The next step based on those posts was to check for continuity between pin 1 in C419 and pin 10 in C101. However, I'm not certain how to get to C419. I understand it's connected to the rear of the dash fuse box, but it's not obvious to me how it comes out or how to access it to get a probe in there. I would love some guidance on how to proceed.
 

nd4sped

Moderator
Registered VIP
Registered OG
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
15+ Year Member
20+ Year Member
You can test for continuity at the fuse. You dont need to backprobe the fuse box.
 


MattP

New Member
I was able to test, and I have continuity between pin 10 on C101 and fuse 9 in the dash fuse box.

I also was able to test continuity between Pin 10 on C101 and pin 1 on C120, and I have continuity there as well. Just for reference, I am using the continuity setting on my multimeter and checking for an audible sound. I could do an ohm test if we need better validation.

If I've tested this correctly, it means electricity has a path to get to the new distributor, which is completely plugged in, but still no spark. Maybe I'm missing something?
 


Top