TyDelane
New Member
So I bought a 1998 civic EX (EJ8) with a blown d16y8 and an automatic transmission, and I found a cheap d16y7 with a manual swap, with nearly every part I needed for the swap except for the upper transmission bracket, clutch master and slave (and clutch line), and pedal assemblies. When I got the car, it ran, and I drove it onto the trailer and drove it off. It started rough, then ran fine until I'm assuming water started getting into the block and started blowing smoke out the exhaust (The bad motor was the reason he was selling the car). Also, I got to see the d16y7 running and everything before it was pulled. I also kept the d16y8 ECU and harness installed post swap. I know they d16y7 is the worse motor, but I currently have a k series I am building and this is just to have a cheap manual civic until the k is finished and I am ready to put it in (I plan on putting a good amount of money into the k engine itself). My current situation is that after the swap, I can crank all day, but I have no spark, no fuel, no dashlights (the ones that turn on when you turn the headlights on, but they might not have worked before Im not sure), and the OBD reader won't connect anymore (It did before I swapped the motor out). I do however have headlights, tail lights, reverse lights that work properly, and working radio etc. To do the clutch pedal wiring, I followed a Texas Honda Channel 1998 civic auto to manual swap video where I ran the black with red and black with white wires to the top sensor on the clutch pedal, ran the green and black wire to the bottom sensor, and ran the green and yellow to the reverse sensor on top of the transmission. All of the wires I'm referencing are under the center console cup holder area.
- I tried to jump the green and black wire together like the guy said in the texas honda channel video
- I tried removing one plug at a time from the ECU and trying to start it each time as someone had said one of them is for the A/T and that it needed to be removed
- I know the pedal is working properly because it doesn't let the starter engage until the pedal is almost all the way down (It starts pushing on that top censor)
- I kept the d16y8 intake and did nothing with the IACV yet
- I used the d16y7 exhaust manifold
- I checked all the fuses in the fuse box next to the battery
- I'm hoping I don't have to buy an ECU and wiring harness for the manual d16Y7 (I had read in several different places that I didn't need to, and if that turns out to not the case I probably wouldn't have bought the d16y7 if I had known)
- The thermostat housing that cam with the d16y7 is a little different and doesn't have the same electrical plug as the original one on the d16y8
