Hey guys, my Uncle has a 2000 Civic Dx / Auto / (D16Y7 I think). My Uncle’s Civic overheated because one of the coolant hoses was leaking (hose under dizzy due to oil leak). He pulled over immediately, I met him, filled with water, and drove it to my house. I replaced all the coolant hoses, fuel filter, dizzy O-ring, and engine air filter. After the repairs I started the car, bled the air from the cooling system, and went for a test drive. Well, his car died 5 to 10 miles into my test drive. The car would crank, and not start. I found there was no spark and the dizzy to be leaking oil into it internally, so I figured it might be it, but it wasn’t. The car sat for a while and found the water pump to be leaking out the weephole. Replaced the timing belt, water pump, and crank sensor as well, still doesn’t start (which I figured it wouldn’t).
Using the service manual (page 23-109) ICM input test I tested his TEC dizzy.
Step 3: I found 12V at BLK/YEL and ground
Step 4: I found 12V at WHT/BLU and ground
Step 5: There is continuity between B13 Pin of the ECU and YEL/GRN wire. This confused me cause the manual says connector A (32P)
Step 6: No continuity between YEL/GRN and ground
Step 7: I am lost because his new TEC dizzy doesn’t have a BLU^1 wire and I don’t know where the test tachometer is (can’t find it in the manual) and I think I read somewhere 99-00 don’t have tach (not really sure).
Step 8: Again, his new TEC dizzy doesn’t have a BLU^1 wire neither did his old one
Step 9: Says if all tests are normal replace the ICM which I don’t think is the problem. I swapped my 99 Civic EX / 5 speed dizzy with his and it still did not start, and I put his new dizzy on my Civic and it works. This leads me to believe that his ECU is bad, but I am not 100% sure about my diagnostic steps.
I was hoping one of yall could lead me in the right direction and tell me what proper diagnostic I should do before replacing my Uncle ECU. Sorry for the long ass story. Also, the ground wires at the thermostat housing are not lose, has continuity, but I didn’t perform a voltage drop.
Using the service manual (page 23-109) ICM input test I tested his TEC dizzy.
Step 3: I found 12V at BLK/YEL and ground
Step 4: I found 12V at WHT/BLU and ground
Step 5: There is continuity between B13 Pin of the ECU and YEL/GRN wire. This confused me cause the manual says connector A (32P)
Step 6: No continuity between YEL/GRN and ground
Step 7: I am lost because his new TEC dizzy doesn’t have a BLU^1 wire and I don’t know where the test tachometer is (can’t find it in the manual) and I think I read somewhere 99-00 don’t have tach (not really sure).
Step 8: Again, his new TEC dizzy doesn’t have a BLU^1 wire neither did his old one
Step 9: Says if all tests are normal replace the ICM which I don’t think is the problem. I swapped my 99 Civic EX / 5 speed dizzy with his and it still did not start, and I put his new dizzy on my Civic and it works. This leads me to believe that his ECU is bad, but I am not 100% sure about my diagnostic steps.
I was hoping one of yall could lead me in the right direction and tell me what proper diagnostic I should do before replacing my Uncle ECU. Sorry for the long ass story. Also, the ground wires at the thermostat housing are not lose, has continuity, but I didn’t perform a voltage drop.