1991civicb16
Guest
This is going to suck it's a mess.....Yes. And not necessarily.
This is going to suck it's a mess.....Yes. And not necessarily.
True, Thanks for the help going to take me a while to get the wiring thing done i need to get the motivation to figure it out.....Good luck man. You've made a lot of troubleshooting progress, which is so much better than randomly throwing parts at a problem.
Start by bleeding the cooling system.Today I checked the TW/ECT sensor. The ohm test showed 197 and there is 5 volts at both terminals. I decided to unplug the sensor with the engine running and my idle stayed constant with it unplugged, but hunts when it is plugged in. Does this indicate that the sensor is bad?
I have tried that in the past and it has had no effect, but I will try it again tomorrow.Start by bleeding the cooling system.
Probe the sensor terminals not the plug terminals.When checking the ect for continuity as you mentioned before, do you probe the plug or the sensor itself. My reading of 197 from before was from testing the plug.
-Did you bleed the cooling system like this:Ok I probed the sensor and got 210 at operating temp. I bled the cooling system and I am still getting hunting idle at operating temp. I have been running 87 octane fuel for a few months now could that have anything to do with it?
Crazy thing today i was messing with my car and was playing with the idle screw and when i bring it out to raise the idle and put it at about 1.2k rpm the idle dont bounce strange huh....-Did you bleed the cooling system like this:
This procedure may take 20-30 minutes.
1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.
2) Push the dash heater lever/knob to MAX heat.
3) Follow the directions in the diagram below (hint: the bleed bolt is located where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine):
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Also,
-Check the two ECT wires for an open or short between the ECT plug and ECU.
-Check the output voltage of the TPS