Fastest D series Engine.

lo-fidelity

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Going-West said:
Haha, please.

Gsr > d15b is every way you can possible think of except price. It has higher compression, but it can take more boost because of stronger block, d15 rods are like toothpicks. Plus 6 psi on a gsr will give you twice the power gains as 6 psi on a d15.

I'm glad that you beat some cars that are faster than you, it gives credit to your driving, but those cars are faster than you. The reason you beat those cars in the 1/8th is because they have too much power for their tires and they spin most of the way...race them in the full 1/4 and see what happens.

you sir are wrong about the d15b.. yes it has small rods but because of the stroke length they handle boost better than the d16z6. You can run 10-12lbs on a d15b all day long if you have a REALLY good tune. ive seen people run as high as 15lbs for a few runs down a track and it will handle it.
 

Going-West

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lo-fidelity said:
you sir are wrong about the d15b.. yes it has small rods but because of the stroke length they handle boost better than the d16z6. You can run 10-12lbs on a d15b all day long if you have a REALLY good tune. ive seen people run as high as 15lbs for a few runs down a track and it will handle it.
Didnt say anything about the d16z6 :what:

I was replying to when the other guy said it was better for boost than a d15b, which is NOT true.
Gsr block > D series block.
 


hundredwatt

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The guy with the turboed civic didn't spin hardly at all, just enough to get a good launch. True, he did own me when it came time for 2nd gear, but not before then did he gain anything on me. Can't wait to get my turbo on and show ya'll what my d15B is capable of.
 

Boricuanology

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lo-fidelity said:
you sir are wrong about the d15b.. yes it has small rods but because of the stroke length they handle boost better than the d16z6. You can run 10-12lbs on a d15b all day long if you have a REALLY good tune. ive seen people run as high as 15lbs for a few runs down a track and it will handle it.
Is it worth it to buy a J version D15b. I was cheking on the hp numbers from factory and this engine makes about 5 to 10 hp more than the D16z6. Can someone clear this for me, is the D15b a 1.5 or a 1.6? I rather get the usa D16z6 rather than going thru all trouble on getting a J engine.
 


Revolver

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hundredwatt said:
...But you can get more power out of it all day long than you can a d16. Plus d15b's are cheap. so blow as many of them up as you want. One reason for getting a d15b would be the vtec. I could be wrong, but I don't think they made a d16 vtec...
Not really
D16s are quite cheap
The Z6 and Y8 heads have VTEC
 

Beelzebubba

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Boricuanology said:
Is it worth it to buy a J version D15b. I was cheking on the hp numbers from factory and this engine makes about 5 to 10 hp more than the D16z6. Can someone clear this for me, is the D15b a 1.5 or a 1.6? I rather get the usa D16z6 rather than going thru all trouble on getting a J engine.
The JDM D15B vtec makes about 5 more bhp but gives up 4lbs of torque to the D16Z6. Kind of a draw there. :???:
 

hundredwatt

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okay. Thanks for letting me know about the vtec. that way I can avoid sounding stupid in the future. :thumbs up:
 

LowNotSlow

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I know I can smack a D15B head on a Y7 block but are there any tricks in this? Need the vtec for some short track action.
 

12.8:1 Ls/vtec

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The d16y8 is the best by the numbers go but is in a heavier body car. The ports aren't as much different as it is the combustion chambers. The z6 has a normal style combustion chamber while the y8 has a quench type combustion chamber The compression ratio between the two states obviously why the hp is different between the two. d16z6 cr 9.2:1, d16y8 cr9.6:1. Simply put the head on the d16y8 is the best of all the above. As far as cam profiles are concerned, It shouldn't matter. If you have the head off, you might as well pilddle with the head for a little while and change the cam. It is not hard to do. Cams can be changed much more easily than getting your head modified and much less expensive. Head design as a whole goes to the y8 no matter what head has any certain jdm cam. But it is not much of a difference. Just the way things are. 1.5 liters of displacement is not worthy of being praised and are worhtless other than to turbo. They are not even that great then with their tiny ass rods and ultra low displacement. If any d-series is being built for any kind of power, buy some rods. But there is something that you do have to do when installing a larger set of rods into a d-series. When building a d-series and installing the rods, they will not turn over and tey will bind on the bottom of the cylinder sleeve. There is not a chance in hell that this will not happen as when I had a d-series there was just too much to be filed out to just be bad luck. So if you want to go the d-series route, prepare for an expensive bottom end build(unless you and an engine builder friend from honda helps you like I had for free but if not be wary) at least on a y8. I think the blocks are identical between the z6 and y8 though.The reason it will be expensive is that you will have to keep taking the bottom end apart if you do not take enough metal out and it takes time because it is the pressed in iron you will be cutting for clearance. make sure you have something soft on the end of your file so as not to damage the cylinder walls. I got carried away in typing, sorry.
 

12.8:1 Ls/vtec

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Also on d-series, for everyone who does not know how they work; the d series vtec are semi economy motors. The vtec function only works on the intake side though and the vtec engagement is not nearly as powerful or efficient as the b-series. But I will say this in the d series defence. It does not matter how crappy a head design is be it a two valve per cylinder, pushrod v8, as long as you are boosting enough air and fuel into a combustion chamber, it does not matter. So if you have a d series, don't build it for n/a because you will just spend a lot of money and not see any worthwhile changes in speed. So if you have a d series, build the bottom end and turbo the motor. You will not suprise anyone unless you do this. Turbo will be the best investment made as far as speed is concerned but will eat the stock cast pistons and finger-like flimsy rods in a hurry. Easy setup on a d series is a nice turbo kit, built bottom end, vtec head, and a good clutch and fuel/ignition setup so take this into consideration. :thumbup:
 

tunerfreak87

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lol i dont know if ls/vtec said this already cause i didnt read all of his posts, but the d15b has a unique crankshaft that houses p28 rods...which are the same in the z6's. it does not have the rods from the d15's. just wanted to clear tht up. the only thing it has different than the z6 pretty much is the pistons which are flat tops rather than being ditched slighty and the cams a little bit more aggressive, which gives it a little bit more HP and a little less torque. This results in a tiny bit higher compression about 9.6 rather than the z6 having like 9.4 (those numbers could be off a point or two)
 

tunerfreak87

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hundredwatt said:
The guy with the turboed civic didn't spin hardly at all, just enough to get a good launch. True, he did own me when it came time for 2nd gear, but not before then did he gain anything on me. Can't wait to get my turbo on and show ya'll what my d15B is capable of.
I'm reppin you on the D15B, i'm boostin the hell outta mine, like ls/vtec said its the only way to go with D motors. I know someone who has built many boosted D series so I have the advantage but it will be nice to eat up n/a B series and those nasty dosemtics with my single cam =)

...bwahaha
 

jon julian

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hundredwatt said:
Well, I'm waisting time on a d15b. Also a d series is far better than a gsr b18 for boost because of the much lower compression ratio. The lower the compression, the more psi you can boost the engine. I'll be running low 9's in an eigth when I get my clutch in and that's non turboed. I get mad at the drag strip when I see cars with a lot "better" engines can't run good times. I saw a guy with a type r b16 that was running high 10's in the eighth. what is the deal with that? Am I the only import driver there that can drive? I waxed a turboed civic with a gsr b18 for about to the 60ft marker. And my clutch is almost dead. My clutch slips going up slight inclines. This dude was running 6 ps on the gsr b18 and only got low 9's and high eights.

all motor singlecam running low 9's???:???:
 

12.8:1 Ls/vtec

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In the 1/8 mile. Obviously hundredwatt has no real track around him and has to run gay ass 1/8 miles all day. I'm fortunate to have a decent 1/4 mile track within an hours drive.
 

tunerfreak87

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12.8:1 Ls/vtec said:
In the 1/8 mile. Obviously hundredwatt has no real track around him and has to run gay ass 1/8 miles all day. I'm fortunate to have a decent 1/4 mile track within an hours drive.
same here ig ot two tracks one less than an hour away and another like 3 hours away...not running 1/8 mile haha
 


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