06 Civic Cranks wont start

[Mark D]

Can someone point me in the right direction please
06 Civic DX 1.8 cranks over but wont start.
I was traveling down the highway and the engine just cut out. Had it towed home and the first thing that came to mind was the fuel pump went. I replaced the fuel pump and still wont start. I dont hear any humming coming from the fuel pump from both old and new. I checked the fuses and relays and all checked out fine.
I thought maybe the ecu so I picked up a used one from the same year make and model and the same thing. Check engine light is on but cant pull any code from the OBD either. Amy help would be appreciated.

 

[nd4sped]

When you said you checked fuses and relays, did you bench test them or just visually inspect them?

Did you verify voltage at the fuel pump with the ignition switch in the II position? You should get battery voltage. You can also bench test the pumps with an external 12v power source.

You can apply 12v to the pump directly and verify fuel pressure at the fuel rail by disconnecting the line to the rail and putting the line in a bottle to collect any fuel that does spill.

 

[Mark D]

I have a relay tester and that's how I tested them. I have also tested the fuse with a multi meter which tested fine. I have voltage going to the pump but.

 

[nd4sped]

I have voltage going to the pump but.

So you have power to the pump, are you getting any fuel pressure out at the rail? I ask because the pump in your model is an assembly of the pump, pressure regulator and fuel filter all in one. Testing pressure at the rail will also indicate whether you got any issues in the fuel lines as well. If fuel is not coming out of the line properly you can test again at the pump for comparative results.

Alternatively, you can easily verify fuel by pulling the ignition fuse from the panel to prevent the ignition from creating spark. Crank the car over a few times and pull out the spark plugs. They should smell strong of fuel. That will verify you are getting fuel. (Assuming the fuel pressure regulator is working normally, still recommend verifying pressure).

If you have a fuel injection pressure tester you can also do that way. I don't recall if the 06-11 Civic has a service port on the fuel rail or not to check pressure. (Do not think it does without looking at the service manual). Do not use the $10 fuel pressure tester from most auto part stores, those are meant for carburated low fuel pressure systems less than 8psi. Most fuel injected systems operate around 32-40 psi so ensure you have the right gauge kit.

Ill come back and check your reply later.

 

[Mark D]

I have 8 volts going to the pump but nothing coming out of it. I had tried bench testing the old and new pump and get nothing. There are 4 wires. Purple is hot black and orange ground and the green one I'm gonna guess is sending unit. I have nothing coming out of the rail. I ordered an OTC hei spark tester and will get that in at some point today. Then I'll check for spark. I really hate to think I may have to send it to Honda. Not much into being raped

 

[nd4sped]

I have 8 volts going to the pump but nothing coming out of it. I had tried bench testing the old and new pump and get nothing. There are 4 wires. Purple is hot black and orange ground and the green one I'm gonna guess is sending unit. I have nothing coming out of the rail. I ordered an OTC hei spark tester and will get that in at some point today. Then I'll check for spark. I really hate to think I may have to send it to Honda. Not much into being raped

First off 8 volts is too low to operate any functions in the vehicle. You need at least 11v+ to get anything to "react" so to speak. To operate/function as intended you need a stable 12v power source. So a good battery should suffice to test with.

So if you are getting (for this conversation, sounds like your battery is acutely undercharged) 12v at the fuse you should be getting 12v at the pump ONLY for the first few seconds during the "PRIME" phase of moving the ignition switch from OFF to I -> II -> III (CRANK). Position II enables about 2-3 seconds of power to the fuel pump to build fuel pressure within the fuel system then resumes power once the alternator takes over power duties.

I cant confirm which wire does what. Finding the service manual for the 2011 is one of the harder ones to find and I still have yet to find one. I found somewhere someone saying search for the Acura CSX as the platform is similar but I couldn't find out for that either unfortunately.

 

[nd4sped]

I ordered an OTC hei spark tester and will get that in at some point today. Then I'll check for spark. I really hate to think I may have to send it to Honda. Not much into being raped

You can check for spark without the test kit. Simply remove the coil pack and keep the plug in the coil. Place near a solid metal object like a bolt that the spark plug can arc ground too. The gap should be less than an inch, there should be plenty of power to jump the gap. Distriburtorless Coil on plug provides a lot more voltage per plug versus older distributor ignition systems.

 

[Mark D]

I had taken the battery out of the car and used it to jump the fuel pump and it works. I tested both the new and the old and they both work. I'm still leaning towards the ECM being bad. Guess I have no choice but to go to the dealership. I don't have tools to go any further

 

[Mark D]

By the way. Thank you for your help

 

[Brak]

If there's only 8 volts at the pump. Pull the fuel pump fuse and check there. as well as at the relay socket.
if you have 12v at the fuse and relay, then there's a short between the relay and pump.

the problem will be between the last place you have 12v, and the first place it's less.