Ok word.
I forget - does this car have 4 injectors, or is it just a Dual point? If it is DP, my instructions will be a little goofy.
Also, look to the latest revision of this for the best info. . . scroll down.
So here is the run down -
Put the car in its temporary resting place. Hopefully indoors in a roomy garage.
Remove the intake and air cleaner. It should be phillips and 10mm bolts.
Mark the position of the distributor with a marker. Remove the distributor by releasing the 3 12mm bolts and pulling. Notice the teeth that align in the cam. They are offset so unless you really force, you cannot put it back together wrong.
Unplug any sensors you can reach that are on the passenger side of the head or on the throttle body.
Remove any vac lines too. IF you're not really familiar with the engine, maybe mark them using whatever method you choose. Numbers on masking tape work well.
IMO at this time I'd get the exhaust out of the way. First, get the 3 bolts that connect the mid-pipe to the header pipe. I suggest a breaker bar and a deeper 14mm with whatever extensions you need. Maybe apply PB Blaster or a little heat from a torch if necessary. Just separate it as I don't think you actually need to remove it from the car.
There may be another b***h-bracket holding the pipe to the block. Should be 14mm.
Remove the 12mm bolts that hold the header to the head. Remove manifold and set aside.
With header out of the way, get at the drain plug there. Put your bucket under the car and get ready. It will gush. Remove the rad cap to prevent it from doing the 'glug-glug-glug' and splashing and s**t.
Separate the cable from the throttle by releasing the bracket that holds the cable, this way you do not have to adjust it later.
The upper radiator hose goes to the front of the head. Remove it from the head and just bend it back out of the way. I wouldn't remove it completely because of the risk of breaking the plastic of the radiator.
Separate the heater core hoses from the head, but leave them attached to the heater core in the firewall.
If you have cruise control, remove the bolts that hold the bracket to the body so you can peal it back. Don't separate the cable!
I find it easier to mess with the timing belt with the other belts out of the way. If you can get around them, you can probably leave the belts in place.
If you have power steering, release the tension by unscrewing the wing nuts. Just loosen the 2x 14mm bolts that hold the pump to the bracket. Loosen them like 2 turns and it should slide easy as pie. Release the alternator tension by loosening the top 12mm bolt and then the lower 14mm bolt. The lower one is easier to get at from the bottom if you have a lift.
Remember, you don't have to remove the belts from the job, just from the side of the block. They kinda hide a little rubber piece in that plastic. Behind that rubber is the tensioner for the timing belt. Just note its location.
Remove the bolts that hold a bracket from the intake manifold to the block. SHould be 12mm if you even still have it. While at that angle, look for plugs that you missed
Lets remove the fuel injector plugs. . . assuming you have 4 injectors in the fuel rail. If you are not familiar with this type of plug, you just have to release the metal clip from both sides of the injector simultaneously and pull up. Easiest done with a smallish, long flat headed screwdriver. You can kinda angle it up. Just look close and you'll see how it is done.
Separate the fuel line from the filter to the fuel rail. The pressure release is 12mm and the fuel rail fittings are 17mm as I recall. I don't think it matters which end of the line you remove, just be sure to NOT LOOSE the stupid little washers. One goes above and one goes below the banjo fitting!
Release the hose from the fuel rail to the return line. It is a weird double clamp thing. Don't worry about destroying it because we all do. Just remember to replace it when you're done.
One more thing, there may be a horseshoe shaped hose running from the thermostat area to the head. Just a 3/4" hose. Remove it from the head.
Ok, if you've done all this, you're probably 1/3 to 1/2 way done disassembling. If you did it in less than 2 hours, for your first time you're doing well I guess.
Anyone feel free to add, correct, or comment please!!!
Now, remove the 5x? 10mm nuts that hold the valve cover on. Pry gently but you may need to pry firmly. Whatever works.
Remove 2 10mm bolts that hold the top of the timing belt cover in place.
Line up the engine at TDC according to the manual, and according to whatever engine you have. It is slightly different sometimes.
Release that 14mm bolt in that special little window that I described earlier. That tensioner should release. Allow the cam to turn no more than 2 teeth if you can help it. You will need to let it slip a little just to get the belt off of the cam gear. Don't use any tools to pry it if they will mark or damage it.
Now you can see how nice and clean the engine is! Yummy!
Ok. There are 10 headbolts that are 14mm. Starting from the outside, crisscross your way from outside to inside. Check out a guide. This part is important and without an illustration, I don't wanna tell you to do something that f's s**t up.
Once they're all cracked, slacken them uniformly.
once they're all loose, I put them in a cup or coffee can together so they can wallow in oil.
Take a look all around again, there will probably be a little hose you miss and maybe the hose for the PCV, but other than that - get ready to lift. It should be about 40lbs (??) so you can do it solo. A friend helping is always cool. Pizza is great currency.
Ok. It's late and that should get you started. Like I said, anyone please feel free to add or edit. Just do 'quote' to my post here.
payday tomorrow night though, so we will get the rest of the stuff on friday.
