6th Gen Front Speaker Help

ExstInt

New Member
I have a '99 civic ex coupe and i already have the rears installed and i want to run some amped components to the front (i was thinking some polk db6501's).
Does anybody know how hard it is to actually wire through the door boot? I heard people taking wheels, fenders, wheel wells, and all sorts of crap off to get to it. Also, ive searched, but there no good diys about how to do the front door components in a 6th gen. Has anybody had experience or should i take it to the local store, whose gonna charge $175 for just the front speaker install...

Thanks for any help in advance.
 

tCtCtC

New Member
Honestly, I wasn't able to get through it. The best way to get it through the boot is taking the front fenders off. When the fenders are off, you can see the boot directly.
 

ExstInt

New Member
damn. alright thanks for the help and it looks like i wont be able to do it w/o takin the fender off. Im thinking about just replacing the door speakers with http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22626_Rockford+Fosgate+PRIME+R1652-S.html and buying the wiring harness and just running it off my HU. I have the rears amped which i think is enough and am maybe thinking about getting a small sub. I have a jl 300/4 (not the new v2), so will i be able to bridge a pair of channels for the sub and keep the other 2 to the rear speakers? Also, i only have one rca cable running, so can i just set it to 2 chan (the thing that i can set to 2 or 4 chan, i heard its only for fade/balance) and put the LPF on for the sub? Finally, the amp is 150Wx2 @4ohms, so if i get a sub, will it have to be svc/dvc @ 2/4/8 ohms? Sorry, i understand the basics, but am not sure about these, since ive never looked into this. Thanks again.
 


cobb2819

New Member
i've never had to take a fender off, just use a long ziptip and snake it through. you can pop the boot out and give you some flexability

if you are looking at still running a great pair of fronts, take a look at the Hybrid Imagine line or the Hertz Hi Energy. the Hybrid Audio Imagine 6.5" speakers can be coax mounted, so no need for extra tweeter mounts, and also the crossover is very simple. the Hertz Hi Energy line actually has a great coax series. if you plan on running a sub, i would probably recommend amping the fronts and the sub, and leaving the rears as just fill. because of the sub, it's gonna take over a lot from the rears, and you're gonna need to compensate in the fronts. if you think about a concert, the music comes from the front.
 

tCtCtC

New Member
I tried every way possible to get my wiring through the door grommet without taking the fenders off, or having to drill through the door and I couldn't figure it out. Instead, it turns out the previous owner spliced into the oem wiring behind the headunit, so I just used that tap. So, my speakers are wired from the amp, to the wiring behind the headunit, and uses the stock wiring from there to the speakers.

Your setup will be fine, but as cobb said, it won't be staged properly. You should be hearing your music playing from in front of you, not behind. Crutchfield has many articles that helped me when I was building my system, so I highly suggest you look there for some help. If you're going to run the sub, you need to have all 4 RCA's hooked up. Your sub *should* be a SVC, 4 ohm. Depending on the amp you have, you should be fine. JL's don't demand much power and still hit nice.

*side note, I don't think a sub is really necessary in a coupe. The rear 6x9's produce plenty of bass, in my opinion.
 

ExstInt

New Member
Thanks for everyone's help. I decided I'll probably go with a sub for now but if its that bad i might amp the fronts instead of the rears. I just dont feel its worth having to run wires through the door, then install the components, then dealing with any rattling that happens because i took the door off. I thought of using the stock wiring, but i was told not to put more than 50W through them. Does anyone one know any good subs besides jl (the 12w1) that are ~$100, have good sq (i want clean bass, idc if anyone outside the car can hear me), and take 150W rms?
 

Tw3ak3d

New Member
why would you need to run an extra wire through the boot? the speaker wire that goes to the bottom speaker is good enough.It plays full range. If your going with components, it should come with a cross over anyways. Hook the full range signal into the input of the cross over. then wire the woofer and the tweeter to it. and by the way, this is if you decide to put the cross over in the door.
 

ExstInt

New Member
So im assuming if i use the stock wiring, ill have to buy 2 pairs of harnesses to connect to aftermarket stuff (amp > wiring > speaker). This might be over-complicating and confusing, but would it sound good to wire the front chan on the amp through 16 ga wire (its all i have and i have a LOT of it) to behind the HU and run to front speaker wires, put the rears (still aftermarket) back to running off the HU, and run a sub off the rear chan on the amp? If i just run the fronts through the rear speaker factory wiring, i wont be able to run a sub, fronts, and rears. is this a good or bad idea? The bass i want doesnt seem to be able to be handled by my rear (amped) speakers w/o distortion, so thats y i want the sub. I was thinking about grabbing http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9109_Polk+Audio+db6501+.html for my fronts. Any opinions or recommendations? Also, will the tweeters fit the stock locations?
Thanks again.
 

tCtCtC

New Member
Run the fronts exactly how you just said, that's how mine are wired at 50 watts.
I used to run the same exact setup your describing, with amped fronts, headunit powered rears, and a sub all from a 4 chan and it sounded fine. Rear speakers aren't really needed, because they're only used for rear fill. My setup was:
Infinity 6032 cf's in the front
Infinity 9624i's in the back
JL Audio 10W0v2-4
Alpine MRP F-300

I got a VERY good amount of bass out of it, and the speakers sounded fine even with the rear not amped.
As far as the front speakers go, I'm not a fan of how Polk's sound, so it's all up to your personal preference.
 

ExstInt

New Member
cool, thanks. Do you know if the infinitys sounded better than alpine 600s? Also, its okay if i run 16 gauge to behind my HU then tap into the factory, which is 18 gauge i think? Im not too sure about combining wire sizes, so i though i would ask. Thanks again.
 

cobb2819

New Member
ok...gonna admit when i was wrong. worked on a 96 hatch today and i'll tell you, the door boot sucks!! 2 options remove fender or make secondary door boot. sorry i lied earlier, got mistaken on car i worked on.
 

tCtCtC

New Member
ExstInt said:
cool, thanks. Do you know if the infinitys sounded better than alpine 600s? Also, its okay if i run 16 gauge to behind my HU then tap into the factory, which is 18 gauge i think? Im not too sure about combining wire sizes, so i though i would ask. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
I don't know if you still need an answer to this, but here it goes lol.
From personal preference, I think the Infinity's sound much better than the Alpine's. Running the 16 gauge should be fine, I have 18 on mine.
 

mc360

boosted hx
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
why run your own wire? theres already a wire that goes straight to the speaker all you have to do is cut it from the baack of the stereo and splice more wire onto it to make it long enough to reach your amp! sounds alot easier than running new wire and you can always reattach it back to the stereo if you want it stock again
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Top