89 Crx 1.6 si code 7, nothing will fix, choking out, runs rich, please help

[A Honda crx]

89 Crx 1.6 si code 7, nothing will fix, choking out, runs rich, please help

I have tested the iac, cleaned the intake, new plugs, wires, run and set two tps sensors, they glide from .45- 4.6 v on average. tested the ground wire seems good. solenoids in the iac and the other by pass sensor on the back of the intake are good.

I read that four things can cause problems here. iac pluged, iac failure, oxygen sensor fail, and temp sensors reading the engine as hot.

Iac was clean, o2 sensor has been swapped, iac works, haven't changed the engine temp sensor but that seems far fetched

Q: Iac- Idle are control. When I tested this on a battery, it opened wide, then stayed open until I removed it from the battery/ 12.3...Volts all good. I tested the cars plug that goes to the iac, it read 12.2... All good, thats to be expected. I plug it in, and it opens then closes. Why would it do that? Is this my problem, when a load is put on the iac, it doesn't stay open? what is the source of this kind of issue, and the tps test procedures tell me to replace the cpu, does the computer ever fail and have to be replaced.

Car history, ran good until overheated and threw a rod, sat for two years, engine swap, started good, then this...

Please, someone help me! Thanks.

 

[b16lewis]

Well a code 7 is the tps sensor. now I have seen the map sensor cause this running rich problem before in the 88'91 civics. check for a vacuum leak. if the o2 sensor is reading lean the ecu will try and compensate for it.

 

[A Honda crx]

89 crx 1.6 si running rich, tps code 7, cant find the source of the code.

Thanks, I will try and replace the map. no vac leak. Because it sat for a long time, what would happen if the injectors were sticking, or my fuel was poor. I put a fuel stabilizer in it a few days before I fired it up, I'm curious if I have been trying to fix something that is as simple as a new tank of fuel. I cant imagine that would cause me so much grief.

 

[b16lewis]

You will be surprised

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

Gas does go bad over time, try putting fresh fuel in it and see what it does. I dont know exactly what happens to fuel over time, but "going bad" you would think chemically it has changed, maybe even to the point that it 1) Doesnt burn fully and that why you think it is running rich or 2) it has become more combustable and your car is adding fuel to keep the a/f ratio stable.

 

[A Honda crx]

change the fuel

Thanks, sometimes you just need someone to give you a little push. I would have already tried new fuel but Im 35 minutes out side the city, and my truck exploded last week so nothing from town is easy. But I'm motivated to eliminate it from the list of possibilities. I will post how that works.

Thanks again for everyone posting suggestions

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

ALSO, a bad coolant temp sensor can create bad mileage. If the car thinks it is cold all the time it will add fuel until it has come up to operating temp. I dot think it would be to the point where your car chokes out though.

 

[mauz]

Runs rough no start

I had a similar sit not long ago, read forums and diy trouble shooting- to preface my car was bogging every now and then, and seemed to happen more when slowing down suddenly or accelerating quickly ruled out bad solder contacts on main relay...yada yada I hit on a post that said you need bright blue spark from end of cables..not just yellow or orange-indicating what is being delivered from the coil.

I had spark..seemed white...tested coil my self 'good-in spec range', had coil tested at auto shop on a machine 'good-in spec range'.

Got to the point of replacing parts..started with fuel filter-cheap and needed-no change though.

Changed ignition coil in the plug cap-started right up and worked fine.....

Point*

You can get false negatives sometimes and comprehensive trouble shooting from experience is priceless.

The coil tested in spec because the testing probes made a great connection with the coil contact. When hooked up to the plug, the plug makes its connection thru contact of its round tubular metal with the walls of the coil contact tube-which is fine when there is 'no carbon build up'-my coil had carbon build up-enough to allow some juice out to make a spark-but not a strong enough spark for a solid combustion of the gas/air against the cylinder compression.

Just a tid bit to pass on for those with similar symptoms