91 Civic DX - not running, looking for community idea

[reichbc]

So I picked up a 91 Civic DX yesterday, only thing wrong with it is the motor doesn't run. So, I've been going through the troubleshooting steps to see what the issue may be.

It gets fuel, it gets spark. No question about those two.

My only question is the starter. I think the starter may be bad, it doesn't sound like it's working properly. It cranks the motor and everything turns, but I'm questioning if it's turning fast enough or powerfully enough.

Original owner said it just died on the highway. The mechanic told her the timing belt blew out and the valves were warped. Timing belt is fine, and valves look okay. I'm thinking alternator.

Would a cracked engine block cause it to just up and stop running?

Does anyone have any ideas? I'm just going through the steps, so I wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions that I could try out.

 

[WiSeGuy2133]

did he say what it did when it died? have you done a compression test? do a compression test and post the results. the more info the more input/help you will get.


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[Mishimoto]

I would recommend the compression test as well. Perhaps the timing belt broke, bent valves, and someone threw a new one on hoping it would run?

The compression test should give you some insight.

 

[reichbc]

This might sound odd or kind of stupid, but do you know how Honda starters usually have that "typical" sound? The one where you hear it and "someone just started up their Honda"?

Would a compression problem prevent it from sounding as such? When I turn the starter, it just turns... it doesn't have that distinctive sound.

Researching on how to do a compression test. Will post back soon.

 

[reichbc]

Well, went and got a compression gauge. Went to do the check on the car, and the battery was nearly dead. Attached jumper cables with my father's truck and the jumper cables started smoking... so, no compression tests till I get the battery charged up.

 

[AlaskaB16]

Timing is off. Bet you a dixie cup of beer man. Takes 5 seconds to verify. Ive bought and sold 7 or 8 non running Hondas this summer that dont run or almost run. Timing is always off. Even on the ones with timing covers. Trust me, go check right now and then come back with my beer

 

[Mishimoto]

Timing is off. Bet you a dixie cup of beer man. Takes 5 seconds to verify. Ive bought and sold 7 or 8 non running Hondas this summer that dont run or almost run. Timing is always off. Even on the ones with timing covers. Trust me, go check right now and then come back with my beer

I am with Alaska. The strange starting noise/feel is a giveaway. Looking forward to your results.

 

[reichbc]

I owe Alaska a beer. Next time you're round Sacramento, CA, let me know. I'll buy you a pint.

Timing was off by half a cycle (if that's how you say it) TDC was at the top of the exhaust stroke, not the compression. Which means, I've been cranking it (on top of whoever cranked it before me) enough to potentially damage the valves.

It still doesn't start up.

Opinions on valve replacement?

Edit: Chilton's manual says to line up the crankshaft pulley timing marks with a line painted on the timing belt cover. I saw no line, but there was a little metal nub that kind of looks like a triangle, sticking out from the timing belt cover. I was told by my mother's mechanically knowledgeable boyfriend to line up the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with that little nub,so that's what I did. Still no-start.

 

[AlaskaB16]

Here's what you do.

WIth the timing belt loose and off the pulley's, take the #1 spark plug out and stick something down inside there. I use a 2' long 3/8 extension. Then rotate the crank counter clockwise until the extension is sticking up as far as it will go. That's TDC at the crank.

Now the head. Here's where it can be tricky. I've done several D15's and D16's and i've run across a few that get timed different from the norm. Typically D15's get timed based off the cam gear's left and right hash marks with the word "up" pointed to high noon. And Typically, the D16's get timed so the bottom hash mark that is kinda "off center" gets pointed at the 7 o'clock mark that is located on the rear plastic cover behind the cam gear. If you google your engine code and put the word timing, i'll bet you find a nice picture showing you what to set timing off of. Either the "up" mark or the 7 o'clock mark. And they have to be dead accurate. Once you see it in person, you'll know exactly what i'm talking about. They look almost the same but I assure you, they are about 3 teeth off from each other (setting d16 or d15) and it will make a difference between a great working motor or a non working motor.

Then, pull your dizzy off and make sure it's set correctly. You'll see lines in it. Just line them up and stick it back in with out twisting the dizzy (too much) bolting it back in.

Then tighten your belt up nice and snug. Make sure it's not loose at all or timing will screw up again during your first run. I like to put the belt on, then before tightening the belt, rotate the crank about 3 teeth counterclockwise to pull it even more snug on the cam and then crank down on the belt tensioner...

That should do it. Hit me up if you need help. I don't mind walking you through it over the phone either. I've done so many in the last couple weeks I can set Honda timing in my sleep now! LOL

Good luck!

 

[AlaskaB16]

BTW, #1 spark plug is nearest the cam pulley. Some people may not know that if this thread ever gets searched.

 

[reichbc]

I will follow that short guide tomorrow when I have more might and more time to take everything (including the lower timing belt cover) off to verify 100%.

I have to replace all the belts and an alternator anyway, so it would give me the chance to do it, since I've already got the splash guard off...

Alaska, send me a PM with your number, preferably something I can text first to verify you're available.



(We're edging closer to a runner here, it's down to the tiny things!! )

 

[reichbc]

Compression test completed.

#1: 67psi
#2: 32psi
#3: 20psi
#4: 20psi

Bunch of people I know locally say it's a blown head gasket, or messed up valves.

Thoughts?

 

[Mishimoto]

Compression test completed.

#1: 67psi
#2: 32psi
#3: 20psi
#4: 20psi

Bunch of people I know locally say it's a blown head gasket, or messed up valves.

Thoughts?

Hmm best bet is to rip it apart and take a look. Let us know how it goes for you.

 

[yangstylz]

those compression numbers are pathetic. you should in in the high 100s.

there are only three requirements for an engine to run:
fuel
spark
timing
seeing how you said you had the top two, I'd go ahead and recheck your timing. I bet the thing skipped a tooth if two.

fyi, an alternator doesn't have a damn thing to do with starting an engine up.


Posted from Clubcivic.com App for Android

 

[yangstylz]

those compression numbers are pathetic. you should in in the high 100s.

there are only three requirements for an engine to run:
fuel
spark
timing
seeing how you said you had the top two, I'd go ahead and recheck your timing. I bet the thing skipped a tooth if two.

fyi, an alternator doesn't have a damn thing to do with starting an engine up.


Posted from Clubcivic.com App for Android

 

[yangstylz]

those compression numbers are pathetic. you should in in the high 100s.

there are only three requirements for an engine to run:
fuel
spark
timing
seeing how you said you had the top two, I'd go ahead and recheck your timing. I bet the thing skipped a tooth if two.

fyi, an alternator doesn't have a damn thing to do with starting an engine up.


Posted from Clubcivic.com App for Android

 

[yangstylz]

those compression numbers are pathetic. you should in in the high 100s.

there are only three requirements for an engine to run:
fuel
spark
timing
seeing how you said you had the top two, I'd go ahead and recheck your timing. I bet the thing skipped a tooth if two.

fyi, an alternator doesn't have a damn thing to do with starting an engine up.


Posted from Clubcivic.com App for Android

 

[yangstylz]

those compression numbers are pathetic. you should in in the high 100s.

there are only three requirements for an engine to run:
fuel
spark
timing
seeing how you said you had the top two, I'd go ahead and recheck your timing. I bet the thing skipped a tooth if two.

fyi, an alternator doesn't have a damn thing to do with starting an engine up.


Posted from Clubcivic.com App for Android

 

[yangstylz]

those compression numbers are pathetic. you should in in the high 100s.

there are only three requirements for an engine to run:
fuel
spark
timing
seeing how you said you had the top two, I'd go ahead and recheck your timing. I bet the thing skipped a tooth if two.

fyi, an alternator doesn't have a damn thing to do with starting an engine up.

if all that s**t is straight then ur rings are s**t or your valves are bent. I'd try the easier things first.


Posted from Clubcivic.com App for Android