Sorry if some one has already asked this befor but i have a 97 hatch and was woundering if i should swap a H series motor or B series, i'm just woundering which one is faster, how much it is, and is it worth it. Alright thanks alot for all the help
i might not be as jdm as u..but is a b18c4?jdm_me said:well the h series is a bigger motor but your engine bay barely has enough space for it you may need to get rid of your a/c to fit it in. I like the b series because it revs nicely. AS for price tohe b series is cheaper then an h series. and the b series is more of a bolt on. the H series requires more than bolting on. The h series will also thow off your wieght ratio on the car. ill go b18c4 or if you got $ go k20
H series vs B series
H SERIES VERSUS B SERIES
Despite what you may have heard from other sources the H22a swap is a excellent choice for the enthusist who are looking for reliabilty and still being able to pull 11’s and 12 ET’s. Basicly the differences between H22a versus B18c is weight, HP, torque, and size. B16a puts out 160-170 horsepower and 111-115 lbs. of torque. B18c puts out 170-180 horsepower and 128 lbs. of torque. B18c5 puts out 195-200 horsepower and 128 lbs. of torque where as H22a puts out 190-200 horsepower and 158-162 lbs. of torque, all which depend on if their Jap spec or not. H22a is larger in size and weight.
One question often asked is does the power make up for the extra weight carried by the H22a. The answer is yes. I’ve seen H22a in 92 civics run 13.2-13.4 with your basic bolt ons on street tires. I’ve seen B16a with basic bolt ons run 14.7-15.1. B18c run 14.4-14.6and B18c5 run 13.8-14.0.
The B series makes a good choice if your building a fullrace motor leaving a decrease in reliability in daily driven. Stroking the B series is an effective way to achieve greater torque levels that normally would be out or reach in a B series all motor. Building a LS/B20 VTEC is another way to achieve the torque levels, but again you would be sacrafising reliability. Now don’t get me wrong B series fans, I am a huge fan. Having had two B16a’s and a B18c, but I soon realized that I waned to stay reliable and still lay down some serious E.T in a street car and my options of stroking, or build LS/B20 or extreme compression goes against it.
I considering and research turbo, which the B series makes a good choice only if I was building a race motor. B series cylinder walls are cast iron versus FRM fiber reinforced materials on the H22a. B series also has thicker cylinder walls allowing more aggressive boring then the thinner H22a cylinder walls. So basicly that is where H22a comes in. There is just something to say about the brute power of the H22a. Just a drop in swap you can pull low 13’s with bolt ons in a hatch. Add a mild street build and your running mid to high 12’s on street tires and low12’s-11’s on slicks. All without sacraficing the reliability you would get with the B series to achieve those times in an all motor package. Added advantages in the H22a is the factory balanced crank shaft and the closed deck block on the earlier models. And the myth about the H22a only being good for going straight. Is what it is, a myth! I have taken turns at speeds that would a scare a built B series without chirping a tire. The key is you HAVE to use integra front springs or better to support the weight of the H22a block. Yes it will ride poor if upgraded springs are still looking to support a civic motor. The integra or better springs are a MUST for this swap.
WEIGHING THE OPTIONS
H22a cost appox. $3900.00 for the swap. That includes aftermarket header, intake, ECU,
mount kit, axles, shift linkage, etc. In a hatchback appox. 2100 lbs can run 13.3-13.5 E.T.
B16a cost appox. $2350.00-2500.00 for the swap. That includes all factory parts with no aftermarket components. In a hatchback appox. 2100 lbs. can run 14.7-15.1 E.T.
B18c cost appox. $3200.00-3500.00 for the swap. That includes all factory parts with no aftermarket components. In a hatchback appox. 2100 lbs. can run 14.4-14.6 E.T.
B18c5 cost appox. $5800.00-6000.00 for the swap. That includes all factory parts with no aftermarket components. In a hatchback appox. 2100 lbs. can run 13.8-14.0 E.T.
H22a is more bang for your buck!
It's not a midth.Whomever was quoted said:...And the midth about the H22a only being good for going straight. Is what it is, a midth!
LOL...it aint mine, but I'll edit it...i don't feel llike doin no stinkin spell checkBeelzebubba said:It's not a midth.
I don't even know what the hell a midth is.
Myth? That's a possibility.
lol...except for the last part...REPOST...Jezek Is Back said:**AUTO RESPONSE**
For some reason you would lean towards the b18c1? Great reason indeed.richocet1 said:H22a's are good....for some reason i would lean towards the b18c1. its easy to find, and the money you spend getting a jdm engine, you can use a usdm and rebuild it so its brand new. it really depends on what you want it for. if its for a good street car, go either way. if its for strip, go b18 for higher power. it cost alot more to boost a h.
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA..i see the competition is on...as u have named ur lil toons..richocet1 said:H22a's are good....for some reason i would lean towards the b18c1. its easy to find, and the money you spend getting a jdm engine, you can use a usdm and rebuild it so its brand new. it really depends on what you want it for. if its for a good street car, go either way. if its for strip, go b18 for higher power. it cost alot more to boost a h.
what would u go for and why?Revolver said:For some reason you would lean towards the b18c1? Great reason indeed.
why would you want your dd to be faster than your sedan?92 4DoorSleeper said:If I ever get another 4door Im going to H22 or H23 VTEC it. BUt of course my existing 4door will always own. I will use the H22 4door for a DD.