I don't know why any of you are talking about turbo's. He wants cheaper. B20 vtec will be less cost than a f/h swap. Your just looking at the cost of the F motor. With the F swap your going to need ECU, wire harness, mounts, then figure how to get your gauge cluster to work. customizing sift linkage, header est. The cheapest way to do b20 vtec. Would be getting arp rod bolts, arp (GSR) head studs, (GSR) timing belt water pump. Of course a new head gasket an Gsr ecu. Or modded ecu. An if feel like a baller get some rod bearings as we'll. Stock b20 don't like high revs. An the rods an rod bolts are a big weak point. As long as you don't red light race all around town. She should hold up. But you get what you pay for. If you feel like doing it rite an want it to last for years to come. Just take your time an revamp the engine. The problem is not witch way to go swap or b20 vtec. But witch one are you more capable of doing an if you have the proper tools to do the job.
-GSR ECU an harness. Preferably a tunable ECU.
-LS/B20 (same) ARP rod bolts
-GSR/ITR (same) ARP head studs (NON-B17)
-New B20 (for 84mm) head gasket (MLS) or aftermarket for your non-OEM bore
-New ACL bearings - LS/B20 (-New Hastings piston rings (or OEM
-New OEM D/Bseries (same) valve seals
-New OEM Dohc Vtec Bseries (B16/GSR/ITR) 22T water pump
-New OEM P72 GSR/ITR timing belt (not B17)
-New OEM P72 oil pump (96+ GSR/LS/B20/ITR/B16 - all the same)
-Magnetic oil drain plug (important for break in)
-New NGK V-power BKR6E spark plugs (stock LS pistons) OR NGK V-power BKR7E spark plugs for 10.0-12.0:1 compression, or NGK V-power R5671A-8 plugs for 12.0:1+ compression
-Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator
-In addition, you should replace all remaining gaskets and filters
Note- "same" means that the listed parts use the same part #'s from HONDA/ACURA.
Additionally:
-Shotpeen LS/b20rods
-Hone big end of rods when using ARP rod bolts (if necessary)
-Hone cylinders (if necessary)
-Balance the entire rotating assembly
Do the above, and your motor will reward you with reliability.
Other things to consider for making power:
-A complete 2.5 inch exhaust (header, cat, exhaust piping, and muffler)
-Hondata/Passwordjdm intake manifold gasket
-Adjustable cam gears (even for stock cams, because lsvtec timing will ALWAYS be slightly off)
-OEM P30(SIR2 B16)/P73(ITR) pistons or forged 11.5:1+ pistons (forged aftermarket pistons can be run on stock rods)
-Higher lift/longer duration cams
-Stiffer valve springs
-Better intake manifold (ITR, AEBS, Skunk2, JG, Ported ITR, custom, etc.)
-Reputable Port/Polish work on the head
-Better header (SMSP, RMF, Hytech, DTR/SSR, Hytech, ANR, Rage, custom, etc.)
-310cc injectors (at a minimum)
-Sleeved to 84+mm
-extensive tuning