Mini-Me
The D16Z6 Head (92-95 EX/Si) and D16Y8 Head (96-00) Will bolt right onto any D-Series Bottom with the exception of the ZC DOHC. The Y8 Head has a boxed combustion chamber to give you higher CR(compression Ratio) versus the Z6, but both will give you the VTEC. You will need to remove the Oil Jet on top of your D15 Block (located in the upper middle) as the VTEC head already has one. Otherwise you will have too high Oil pressure. This is a common mistake. Your VTEC will not acuate correctly. If you want to do it all correctly, you will have to get the complete head (Valvetrain,Vtec solenoid, distributor(some exceptions), valve cover, wiring harness, Intake Manifold(Y8 is the best) with throttle body(not neccessary as the are all 56mm)). You will also need new head bolts as it is not safe to use the Honda "stretch bolts". People usually take the routte of getting ARP bolts. You will also need the head gasket for the respective head (Z6 or Y8) as well as the timing belt. Your current belt has too many teeth, 4 more teeth to be exact. The ECU is not a must, but again, to do it right, you should get one. Preferrably the OBD1 P28 ECU as it is better for mods. I forget what year you said your car was, but anything for Hondas 88-91 was OBD0, 92-95 was OBD1, and 96-00 was OBD2. Get the respective ECU accordingly. For ease of install, get the one that will fit your ECU harness other than pre-VTEC cars (88-91), i.e. if you have a 92-95 get the P28, if you have a 96-00 get the P2P. If you have a 88-91, you will have to change out your harnesses to suite the ECU. Of course you can ghetto rig and get a RPM switch or better yet a VTEC controller and piggyback to your current ECU, but in the end, it is best to get the right ECU. For a complete head swap with wiring, ECU and Head, you are looking at paying $400-$500 and a few hours in the garage. Email me if you need help.