Higher Idle



#1
ok i have a dohc zc.

i just installed my new system. 2 18" subs. 10000wrms amp. xs power battery. mechman alternator. this s*** is loud lol.

only thing i need is my idle is around 800rpms.... well that low of a idle the alternator is only pushing 120amps at idle.... around 1500 rpms the alternator pushes the full 220 amps.... is there anyway to make my car idle at 1500 rpms ??

thanks
 

jlicrx

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#2
adjust the throttle cable to increase idle, however, the ECU may not like the idle that high and think you have a problem, in which case the idle will probably start fluctuating as the ECU tries to correct the problem
 

JohnS.

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#3
adjust the throttle cable to increase idle, however, the ECU may not like the idle that high and think you have a problem, in which case the idle will probably start fluctuating as the ECU tries to correct the problem
Yeah I'm not a big sound guy but I'm pretty sure you need more than the stock battery and alternator to power that kind of equipment. I agree, I don't think your car is going to like it. I used to have my idle set too high and I got a P0505 CEL for over a year, thinking something else was wrong when all I had to do was re-adjust my idle. It caused my car to bog and hesitate under low RPM's.
 

treeafodo

Austin
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#4
adjust the throttle cable to increase idle, however, the ECU may not like the idle that high and think you have a problem, in which case the idle will probably start fluctuating as the ECU tries to correct the problem
Don't adjust the idle through your throttle cable.

To properly adjust your idle turn idle set screw on the throttle body. It's the recessed flat head screw above where your intake connects. Clockwise raises the idle, while the reverse lowers it. You can do this when the car is running.

Having your idle at 1500rpm isnt a good idea. You probably have another problem, but I dont have enough knowledge to know what that might be.
 
#5
Having your idle at 1500rpm isnt a good idea. You probably have another problem, but I dont have enough knowledge to know what that might be.
Read OP's post again. He WANTS it to be there so his alty pushes 220 amps.
OP, alternatively, if you have a gas-by-wire car (electric pedal instead of cable throttle) wire a rotary voltage regulator up to the throttle plate motor. Turn knob, idle increases. =)

If anyone knows where I got this idea, you get +rep LOL. It should be familiar, especially to those running systems.
 

treeafodo

Austin
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#6
I've heard of CEL after idles higher then 800rpm that's why I said it probably wouldn't be a good idea.

Wouldn't it just be better to get an audio specific battery and alternator? I know nothing about audio :lol:

Edit: just a long shot but does Steve meede have that? That's the only big audio guy I "know". Haha
 
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#7
I've heard of CEL after idles higher then 800rpm that's why I said it probably wouldn't be a good idea.
You are right. Most of the time, an irregular idle pops a CEL. However, if you do the wiring trick, from a literal perspective, all you're doing is pushing the gas pedal with a knob instead of your foot. No CEL.


Wouldn't it just be better to get an audio specific battery and alternator? I know nothing about audio :lol:
He has a 220 amp alternator. Hondas come with (i believe) 85 amp alternators stock. BIG difference.


Edit: just a long shot but does Steve meede have that? That's the only big audio guy I "know". Haha
+rep.
 

jlicrx

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#8
just put a smaller (overdrive) alternator pulley on it so that alternator turns faster without raising engine rpm
 
#9
Yeah I'm not a big sound guy but I'm pretty sure you need more than the stock battery and alternator to power that kind of equipment. I agree, I don't think your car is going to like it. I used to have my idle set too high and I got a P0505 CEL for over a year, thinking something else was wrong when all I had to do was re-adjust my idle. It caused my car to bog and hesitate under low RPM's.
LOL trust me i have upgraded my electrical.... 220a alternator... 2 xs power d3100 batteries... big 3... all 0 gauge wire.... never drops below 13v with the system at full tilt... i know my car audio lol...

Read OP's post again. He WANTS it to be there so his alty pushes 220 amps.
OP, alternatively, if you have a gas-by-wire car (electric pedal instead of cable throttle) wire a rotary voltage regulator up to the throttle plate motor. Turn knob, idle increases. =)

If anyone knows where I got this idea, you get +rep LOL. It should be familiar, especially to those running systems.
ehh my car is a throttle cable... 91 civic dohc zc....obd0

just put a smaller (overdrive) alternator pulley on it so that alternator turns faster without raising engine rpm
the alternator i bought was 550 bucks... if i change the pulley their goes the warranty :(


turning the idle screw will never get it up to 1500 rpms...

and lol about steve meade.... everyone knows him... i dont really like him... but we all have our own opinion
 
#12
well with that u wouldnt have to worry about how much ur pushing at idle ur cap would take care of it for u so ur system doesnt kill ur battery
 

TigBitties

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#13
well with that u wouldnt have to worry about how much ur pushing at idle ur cap would take care of it for u so ur system doesnt kill ur battery
no. you dont know what your talking about. a cap at that type of wattage doesnt help. he would need multiple external power packs that would cost thousands. This isnt your typical sub setup, ive done a similar one like the OP. What he is doing right now is the correct way, only thing that he could also do is run a multiple alternator setup. and a system like this runs multiple batteries


As for the OP. Id like to see the details of the exact system your running. sub enclosures and all that good stuff. i dont think your not running 0 gauge on a true 10k watts rms with no current drop. the wire would struggle at carrying that type of current. i ran 3k rms on 2/0, so i would recommend upgrading to a thicker gauge wire. you might be getting the correct voltage, but its the current you need to get through.

What amp breaker are you running also? just curious

as for your question, turn the idle up or sit there and give it gas. you could adjust the throttle cable but i wouldnt do this.


and i agree, not a fan of SM
 
#14
sorry but those batt he has takes the caps out of the question one of them batt puts out 5000 amps max and like 100 or so amps per hour cca's is like1300 or so.
idk what u could do for the idel with out the cel popin on



and we wana se some pics of that......
:nopics::nopics::nopics:
 
#16
no. you dont know what your talking about. a cap at that type of wattage doesnt help. he would need multiple external power packs that would cost thousands. This isnt your typical sub setup, ive done a similar one like the OP. What he is doing right now is the correct way, only thing that he could also do is run a multiple alternator setup. and a system like this runs multiple batteries


As for the OP. Id like to see the details of the exact system your running. sub enclosures and all that good stuff. i dont think your not running 0 gauge on a true 10k watts rms with no current drop. the wire would struggle at carrying that type of current. i ran 3k rms on 2/0, so i would recommend upgrading to a thicker gauge wire. you might be getting the correct voltage, but its the current you need to get through.

What amp breaker are you running also? just curious

as for your question, turn the idle up or sit there and give it gas. you could adjust the throttle cable but i wouldnt do this.


and i agree, not a fan of SM
lol ya caps are garbage.

as of right now im only running 5kw rms... i just bought a stetsom 10k so im waiting for that to come in =)

ya ive heard of people running 2/0 gauge wire..im just gonna do multiple runs of 0 gauge... like 2 of 3 runs once i get the 10k...the 10k amp has 2 0 gauge positive inputs and 2 0 gauge negative inputs. beast of a amp

not running a circuit breaker... running 2 250a fuses right now... 250a fuse to each amp.... once i get the 10k im gonna run a 1000a breaker.

and ya so far thats what ive done... just sat at idle and revved it up to 1.5k rpms to get good voltage...

also once i get the 10k i plan on getting another 1 or 2, d3100 batteries...

heres a link to my system with 5k... ill update it once i get the 10k in

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/51856-91-civic-turbod-and-5000wrms/
 

TigBitties

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#17
Ok. yeah i would either run multiple 0 gauge or run the 2/0. running 2/0 was like wrestling with a snake lol but yeah if your running 10k rms i would upgrade to a breaker and instead of a power cap running multiple batteries. for the quick draws you could run a power cell. kinda like a power cap x 1000
 




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